esantoro Posted December 14, 2008 Report Posted December 14, 2008 (edited) I'm still trying to get around to making small burnishers for the dremel from 1" stock with a 1/8" hole drilled into them for a screw to be chucked into a dremel. A permanent mandrel would even be better, maybe a screw that goes all the way through with some epoxy on the shaft. I've bought the screws (longer screws for the mandrel). Now I need to find the time to turn them. I've done a few by hand but they turned out lousy. They work fine by hand but unusable with the dremel, as they are out of round (hole not centered properly) and the channel is not filed out properly. I'm trying to use pieces that are 7/8" to 1" dia. by thicknesses of 1/2", 3/4" and 1". Not sure if the weight of these will have adverse effects on the dremel. Here's a pic. Ed Edited December 14, 2008 by esantoro Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
Members Windy Posted December 15, 2008 Members Report Posted December 15, 2008 Sure Julia....just wrap a wood burnisher with the canvas. I've been doing that for some time! I beleive that is the best looking edge I have ever seen. Great job. WINDY Quote To all those who think ..........................
hidepounder Posted December 15, 2008 Report Posted December 15, 2008 I beleive that is the best looking edge I have ever seen. Great job. WINDY Thanks Windy, I appreciate it. I think leatherworkers skip too many steps when doing edges........the project is almost done, they want to move on, burnishing is monotenous, etc., etc. The reality is that is if you want to present a finished looking job, you have to spend time on the edges. It's the mark of a professional and demonstrates your attention to detail. Bob Quote
Members Peterk Posted December 15, 2008 Members Report Posted December 15, 2008 Thanks Windy, I appreciate it. I think leatherworkers skip too many steps when doing edges........the project is almost done, they want to move on, burnishing is monotenous, etc., etc. The reality is that is if you want to present a finished looking job, you have to spend time on the edges. It's the mark of a professional and demonstrates your attention to detail.Bob Bob, would you mind sharing the steps you do to burnish an edge? For example, what do you put on the edges prior to burnishing? I've heard of Bees wax, Gum Tra., water, etc. Do you put edge kote on the burnished edge after you're done? Thanks. Peter Quote
hidepounder Posted December 15, 2008 Report Posted December 15, 2008 Bob, would you mind sharing the steps you do to burnish an edge? For example, what do you put on the edges prior to burnishing? I've heard of Bees wax, Gum Tra., water, etc. Do you put edge kote on the burnished edge after you're done? Thanks.Peter Peter...Here's my process: First I edge, then wet the edge, liberally apply Fiebings Glycerin barsoap to the edge, mechinically slick with heavy canvas sparingly impregnated with Fiebings paste soap (at approx 1750 rpm). Next, I slick with a rub stick, either mechanically or by hand(depending on the job and how the finish is looking at this point) and then I dye the edges, making sure to get good penetration and full coverage (using Fiebings spirit dye). When the dye is dry, I wipe off the residue (re-dye anything I'm not happy with), slick again mechanically with parafin coated canvas (at 1750 rpm), remove the residue with a cloth, polish with a clean, dry, soft cloth. And there you have it! I will say, however, that this process is continually evolving as I learn new tips and discover new products and methods. Hope this helps! Bob Quote
Members DeuceTrinal Posted December 15, 2008 Members Report Posted December 15, 2008 I'm still trying to get around to making small burnishers for the dremel from 1" stock with a 1/8" hole drilled into them for a screw to be chucked into a dremel. A permanent mandrel would even be better, maybe a screw that goes all the way through with some epoxy on the shaft. I've bought the screws (longer screws for the mandrel). Now I need to find the time to turn them. I've done a few by hand but they turned out lousy. They work fine by hand but unusable with the dremel, as they are out of round (hole not centered properly) and the channel is not filed out properly.I'm trying to use pieces that are 7/8" to 1" dia. by thicknesses of 1/2", 3/4" and 1". Not sure if the weight of these will have adverse effects on the dremel. Here's a pic. Ed Ed, you might try chucking those mandrels into a drill press or hand drill in a vise and making them round with sandpaper(36-80 grit) or a rasp. You can use a rat tail file or a screwdriver shaft wrapped in sandpaper to make a groove. The more stable the drill the better. Turn at low-mid speed (500-800rpm). Use a sanding block and don't hold the paper still. I'd stick to the 1/2" size at first, until you see how well the dremel can handle the weight, and if your dremel is variable speed, use low. Hold the dremel inside a coffee can and wear eye protection the first time you turn it on with these in it in case they are out of balance and the shaft lets go. Quote
Hennessy Posted December 16, 2008 Report Posted December 16, 2008 Ryano, that's what I always go back to, but it's tiring and slow if I have lots of straps to edge - so I'm always looking for the magic perfect way to burnish faster.Has anyone ever found a good way to make a powered rotary burnisher with a canvas cover, charged with saddle soap? Julia the finishing machine,sander and finishing brushes found in every boot n shoe repair shop, had a canvas cover'd x4inch wide hard rubber attachment, that black or brown wax was burnished on, then sole edges were burnished over a stain to a high finish.check out your local repairman in th ol' folks home and ask him he'll tell ya .i did these repairs for 6 years once n had one on my finisher adios pete Quote
Dags3777 Posted December 16, 2008 Report Posted December 16, 2008 Sure Julia....just wrap a wood burnisher with the canvas. I've been doing that for some time! Those are some stunning edges. A1 Darryl Quote When I was a kid I used to pray every night for a new bicycle. Then I realised God doesn't work that way, so I stole one and prayed for forgiveness.
Members scooby Posted December 16, 2008 Members Report Posted December 16, 2008 (edited) ....just wrap a wood burnisher with the canvas. I've been doing that for some time! apart from ensuring the canvas is wrapped the correct way how do you fix it to the burnisher? I also assume the slight 'step' where the canvas starts / ends doesn't cause a problem.... A pic would be great if possible Edited December 16, 2008 by scooby Quote
hidepounder Posted December 16, 2008 Report Posted December 16, 2008 apart from ensuring the canvas is wrapped the correct way how do you fix it to the burnisher? I also assume the slight 'step' where the canvas starts / ends doesn't cause a problem....A pic would be great if possible After wrapping the burnishing wheel with two or three good wraps, I used electricians tape on the ends to hold it there. That was just going to be temporary until I figured it all out....but it's still holding, so I've left it alone. The canvas is saturated with saddle soap and has confromed to the shape of the burnishing wheel. For the most part, it holds itself on. I used some Barge on the loose end and it is holding fairly well. The whole thing could probably be Barged together right to the wheel. Quote
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