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Posted

If you're hand stitching, then I WOULD get the groover. And a diamond awl. I like an overstitch wheel for marking stitch spacing (no punches).

I've never owned a round knife -- for the type projects you're describing, you won't need one too. Stanley utility knife is $5 and cuts like butter. I keep a #11 x-acto around too.

What's a v-tool? You mean a gouge? Might help for notebooks n such.

And the burnisher is never a bad idea.

No round knife? I assumed it was the staple of the leather worker's kit. I also assumed you wanted a non flexible blade for skiving. I use my Stanley to whittle because it has some flex.

Yes I do mean a gouge.

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Posted

A good utility knife ($10 more or less) get something that holds the blade firmly.

Pack of Irwin Blue Bi-metal blades ($10 more or less)

Strop with chrome compound (make it with your utility knife, wood, glue, leather) see tutorials on leatherworker.

Tandy Safety Beveler (not the super skiver) and some injector razor blades (again $10 or so).

A lot cheaper, easier to learn to use, and easier to sharpen than a head knife.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

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Posted

The reason for the "cheap" beveler (skiver) is that when you use it, you can cut on a 45° angle to the direction of the cut, much like you do with a real skiving knife. The super skivers and planes from Japan are built to cut perpendicular to the direction of the cut, which works if the blade is bleedingly sharp, for a while. When you skive on an angle, the blade slices the leather.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

Posted

Am I the only one that uses a French flat edger to skive?

The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.

Bruce Lee

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Posted

The reason for the "cheap" beveler (skiver) is that when you use it, you can cut on a 45° angle to the direction of the cut, much like you do with a real skiving knife. The super skivers and planes from Japan are built to cut perpendicular to the direction of the cut, which works if the blade is bleedingly sharp, for a while. When you skive on an angle, the blade slices the leather.

Art

I have the Safety Beveler, but never developed a good feel for it, although I can skive an belt or strap end if I need to.

I've always wondered why the blade is curved? Any clues? Tandy just says it's to prevent gong too deep, but I can gouge the hell out of a strap if I take my eye off it for a second.

For doing straps and some other stuff, use the HighTech leather splitter. Once the blade is stopped and adjusted, it is a lifesaver. But unless you have a proven need for it, it's a bit too expensive.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

If you're cutting 13-15 oz leather consistently, then maybe git the round knife. More blade in the cut theoretically means less labor. But like Art mentions, then you also have the 'down time' of sharpening. With a utility knife (the one I use I found at an auto parts store years ago) you just pitch the blade and go. Yer out a quarter er so ... I cut 10 oz leather with it all the time.

Gonna go out on a limb here and say bout the only benefit I've seen in those curved "skife" skivers is that it binds the blade in place, much like a pancake holster holds a pistol. I got one 100 years ago, and I use it just because I'm used to it -- not necessarily that they're that wonderful. There are a LOT of ways to end up with the same thing. While I won't buy something so cheap i have to FORCE it to do the job, I also don't buy things just cuz I kin, which I think is often the case with round knives. Saddle maker likely got several uses for one. Most others buying one... as you suggested ... simply because someone told them they need one.

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Oh, as for Tandy ....

There's a shop a little better than an hour from here. Usedta be called "The Leather Factory" years ago. I ordered there ALL THE TIME, no problems. I'd just send em a order form (anybody remember those paper things with lines on 'em?) and in a few days I'd have exactly what I need Worst case, if I ordered a dbl shoulder o' 9/10 oz and wrote 12 feet, they might call me and say all they got is 14 footers. Yeah, fine... whatever. And it would arrive and be about 95% useable leather, very little trim.

Now .. it's "Tandy Leather Factory" and .. well.... not so much. Still, that litttle dark haired gal is both cute and knowledgeable, so ya GOTTA go SOMETIMES. Maybe just to decide you already got what you need, and did she already have lunch ... ?

Ahhh... I'm gittin soft.. finding the up side to everything :blush:

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Moderator
Posted

My recommendations are to keep tool cost low to start. There are many ways to skive and bevel, french edgers are one of them. The safety beveler is cheap, easy, and if used on a 45° angle gives a nice clean cut with not much of a learning curve. No sharpening stone or strop necessary.

Art

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

AND .... the point is that though that gal is just a tad chubby healthy, I conclude that NOT EVERYTHING from Tandy is sub-par ;)

Edited by JLSleather

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

I would also recommend that if you *know* there's a tool you do need and really will use, check with Bruce Johnson. He may have it at a fair price and it'll be ready to use when you get it. I've been happy with the tools I've bought from him.

Just a happy customer.

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