When Laminating Leather Belts, Bond Flat Or Curved?

[Tallbald]

Reading some old threads I found a discussion about laminating leather belts. Thread centered around something like "should I make the outer layer a bit longer and laminate the wholebelt in a curve because the outer layer needs to be a bit longer when wrapped around a person?" Folks I hadn't considered this an issue, considering the leather's "give" on the inner and outer layers. I've watched many videos, and read several tutorials none of which seemed to say that flat laminating was wrong. Also given that strong contact cement and secure stitching keep the layers together, is flat laminating over time going to cause separation?

Maybe just overthinking things. Thanks. Don.

[JLSleather]

The "give" you are referring to means one is stretched and one is puckered. Your belt, so only you know if that's acceptable.

[Tallbald]

Good point and I understand that for sure. The question remains in my head though whether or not over time the difference between outer and inner layer length is significant enough in use to create a problem with conditioned veg tanned leather. I suppose one could laminate the layers over a lightweight curved form made of plywood to mimic the curve of the human body and retain the shape on the belt's way to the final user. Don.

[mlapaglia]

I bond them flat. Never had an Issue with the 2 sides. YMMV

[Colt W Knight]

Glue mine out flat.

[Tallbald]

I see. Mine thus far have been flat laminated too. They show no wrinkling on either layer when I hold them in one hand and they droop. To my mind, a short tight bend as found in for example a holster wrapping around a handgun does create an issue, while the large radius bend around a warm human waist wouldn't exceed the ability of the leather fibers to "give" or "bunch" without showing surface deformation. Thanks all for the replys. Don.

[Dwight]

I originally gave your question a thought or two, . . . uhhh, . . . years ago.

Figured if I was going to be serious about it, . . . I'd need a curve replica for 30 inches, 32, 34 36, 38,......etc, . . . all the way up through 57 (biggest one to date).

That was when I decided that flat would probably work, . . .

Yeah, . . . they sometimes pucker a bit on that inside piece, . . . but several months of wearing it, . . . especially if it is packing some serious CHL equipment, . . . the wrinkles go away. Think what actually happens is the outer layer stretches out a bit, . . . pulling the inner puckers with it and flattening them out. Can't prove it, . . . just a theory, . . . but it works for all my personal belts, . . . I figure it works for my customers as well.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited August 31, 2015 by Dwight

[George B]

Light to medium belts I do flat and heavy belts like double 8 oz. I do a slight curve using a 5 gallon bucket. Either way you run the risk of wrinkles, whether on the front or back. Back when worn front when flat, I would rather have the back wrinkle a little than have the front wrinkle. The only ones I've ever had wrinkle were early belts using either crappy leather or leather taken too close to the belly.

[Troy I]

I use 9/10 oz. Veg tanned leather, I glue and sew the belt flat...as long as you are using a high quality leather you should not have a problem. I use Wickett & Craig.

Troy

[Tallbald]

I use Hermann Oak. Two layers of 6-7. Don

[JLSleather]

Surprising that nobody considered the thread. I think most of us can figure out how to avoid puckering / wrinkling, but I personally don't like what it does to a stitch line when you flex after stitching. So I curve a bit. A small waist size has more curve than the bigger fella.