Members Tejas Posted September 13, 2015 Members Report Posted September 13, 2015 Excellent video! Quote
Members Constabulary Posted September 13, 2015 Members Report Posted September 13, 2015 Uwe - you rock! You are hired for sewing machien Videos! Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members 276ccm Posted September 13, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 13, 2015 Thank you so much! The video is excellent and with these very good explained instructions, I think I can do it! :-) I did some test sewing with similar pieces of leather and it was sewing fine, without the feeling of the machine working too hard.. before this thing happened. Of course I would prefer to have a 205 fir this, but for now.. :-) Thanks for super tips too Tor, I´ll let you know for sure! I booked the flight and will stay in Oslo some weeks before the show, so if I can't fix it I´ll take your offer to borrow one of your machines in your work shop :-) I´ll for sure try to visit you anyway! :-) Tomorrow I´ll get some WD-40 or parafin, and start the process! I´ll keep you updated! Have a super sunday! :-) Quote Blog: http://276ccm.blogspot.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/276ccm
Members 276ccm Posted September 14, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 14, 2015 Hi again! :-) Good news and another worry.. The good news is that with a little WD-40 I managed to get my safety clutch “loose” and I can fairly easy pop it in and out of place.. but my new worry is: When the clutch pops into place, I can not put the 5 mm pin all the way inside and the "holes" is not aligned .. only 2.5 cm. If I look down the “hole” and adjust and align the clutch I can put the 5mm pin all the way down (3 cm) but the clutch is not popped into place. You will see both in the video: https://youtu.be/8TvA1AwvuvM Can I pop the clutch in place and start the timing process, or is it really important that I get the "holes" in the clutch aligned, and that it is popped into place at the same time first? This is maybe because the screws that attach the clutch to the shaft, slipped a little, due to the hard clutch? Quote Blog: http://276ccm.blogspot.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/276ccm
Uwe Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Nice job of getting the clutch to work - yay! Obi-Wan Kenobi would say "This is not the hole you're looking for." The hole that you see at the bottom of the viewing/check hole in your video is not the check hole, but rather the hole the little ball pops into when the clutch engages. You're turning the clutch exactly 90˚ from the "pop" to showing up in the viewing hole. The main difference between your clutch and mine is that mine has only one ball and matching hole - it will engage only once every full rotation (360˚). When mine pops into place it's in the right position. Your clutch has two opposing balls and it will engage every half turn (180˚), or twice every full turn. Only one of the those two pops per full 360˚ turn is the correct one. So the clutch engages either in the correct position or exactly 180˚ off. The point of the viewing/check hole is to make sure it is in the "correct" 180˚ position. Keep turning the wheel until the clutch engages and the check holes line up. You were exactly 180˚ off in your video. All is well, really, just give it another half turn. Edited September 14, 2015 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members 276ccm Posted September 14, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Thanks Uwe! :-) If I turn another 180 degrees it´s only like a soft "pop" (not even really a "pop" but I feel it´s something there) and its obvious its not the right place, so this position, as it shows in the last video must be the right place. It really "POPPS" into place.. but at this position, I can only put the 5 mm pin, 2,5 cm in that hole. Does that means something else is wrong, or the screws that holds the clutch to the shaft must have been sliding? Or did I misunderstand something? :-) I saw there was a little difference on where the balls is placed now.. so this position is the only place it really pops into the right place, so only one correct place for every 360 degrees turn. Edited September 14, 2015 by 276ccm Quote Blog: http://276ccm.blogspot.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/276ccm
Uwe Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) I see. I was just going by the drawing and deducing how it should work. I was wondering why they didn't just offset the two ball orbits slightly and it turns out they did! So at this point I don't know why the check holes don't line up when you have the clutch engaged. Perhaps they actually do and we're not seeing it. From the drawing it looks like the check pin would never go all the way through the clutch. Perhaps the check pin would just go a little deeper if the clutch was engaged versus disengaged. Watch the check hole as you turn the clutch and see if anything else goes by as you turn especially just before it pops into place or right as you disengage it. Somebody who has an actual 267 in front of them will be in a better position to figure that detail out (that person may be you!) It may not matter all that much. If the clutch is engaged, it's engaged. As you said you know it's engaged because you turn the clutch until it REALLY pops into place. We may be overanalyzing the check hole thing. The check hole may only be of use to check if the clutch is engaged without having to actually disengage the clutch first and then re-engage it. Disengaging and then re-engaging may be the better check. I would feel comfortable at this point to time the hook and sew. You're in a MUCH better state now than you were when the clutch was frozen. After doing the timing on my machine it seems more likely that the large gear inside the gearbox under the hook slipped on the shaft a little rather than the set screw at the clutch end of the shaft. You may have to adjust the two clutch spring screws if the clutch lets go too easily as you sew. Edited September 14, 2015 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members 276ccm Posted September 14, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 14, 2015 Thanks a lot, again! :-) I took another video, which shows the 360 turn, but I can't really see anything going on in there to check. But I will open the gearbox and start the timing tomorrow morning and hopefully it'll be ok :-) The 360 degree video: https://youtu.be/PoZCBCOFq0I I also tried to put the pin inside while very carefully turning the clutch, but it would only drop where the ball is supposed to drop. And it's no chance it will go all the way trough as the little wall to support the timing belt will block it. Muchas gracias! :-) I'll update tomorrow :-) Quote Blog: http://276ccm.blogspot.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/276ccm
Uwe Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 There's no mistaking that pop! You're good to go. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Trox Posted September 15, 2015 Report Posted September 15, 2015 Hi Marius, It makes the right sounds. I do not remember how it's suppose to look like right now. I am not in my workshop before later this week, I will check it then. How much is the hook off where your clutch is engaging. If the clutch did not work something else has moved. You put tension to the clutch Springs too? Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
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