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your needle bar

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Posted (edited)

I'll take a couple of photos tomorrow, jimi. A couple of things I've found so far - mine has a disengeable pulley, there is a knob on the handwheel that releases the pulley (I'm not quite sure why it would be needed, unless it's a primitive form of release if the needle jams, and it appears that it was not normally fitted) and there is no automatic thread tension release when the presser foot is lifted, mine has a small lever on the tension assembly that you flick up to release tension. That, and the fact that there is no "H" marking on it makes me think mine might be a pretty early model?

Edited by dikman

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

The fly wheel nut at the back disengages to let you fill up a bobbin with a bobbin winder without the needle working all the time??, and possibly at the back of your thread tension unit there should be a hole going through the casting to the other side. this is where a long pin goes which automatically releases the two disks when you lift the foot up. i think my pfaff is the same or older as it was the black version, and it had the hole there in the casting already. so when i changed the single broken tension unit to a newer pfaff one, the parts just fitted no problem so you might just need a pin, thats all??

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The fly wheel nut at the back disengages to let you fill up a bobbin with a bobbin winder without the needle working all the time??

I should have known that, as my (domestic) Singer 201K does exactly that. Because my industrial Singers don't do it, it didn't occur to me that another manufacturer would still use it on bigger machines. Dohhh.

Nope, no hole in the casting that I can see.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

I'm having issues with the needle position of my 335-h2-17/01 bs. I can't find the adjustment procedure listed in the manual for the 145 and it doesn't appear to be close to the same mechanism in the newer 335s. Can anyone give me a hand with this?

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Posted

Hi John, whats the problem with your needle position??

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Posted

Hi Jimi.

I changed the feed dogs to a binder style and adjusted their relative horizontal position in order to let the needle pass through the hole. The problem is when I sew with the binder attachment the stitches are too close to the edge of the binding tape and it won't sew the binding on to the material when I try to sew corners or even loose curves.

I need a bit of extra clearance for the binding tape but I can't move the feed dogs anymore without the needle missing the hole and smashing into the feed dog.

I was told that I could move the needle bar "carriage, for lack of a better word, in order to Center over the new position of the hole. I found instructions in the newer 335 manual but I haven't found an older manual to see if this is possible.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Best John.

Posted (edited)

You should be able to move the binder attachment to the left to adjust the relative stitch line position. Consider the needle position fixed. You need to move the other stuff. The folder part usually has slots to allow left/right movement of the folded tape. Do you have a close-up picture of your setup?

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Posted

Hi Uwe,

Thanks for the response. I've got the binder as close to the feed dogs as I can get it. I actually filed the inside of the feed dog to get it closer with some success.

I'm trying to post some pictures so you can see what I mean. I'm on my phone at the moment so I don't really have tons of options so to post the pica right now. I'll see what I can come up with and if not I'll have to do it from my pc at home.

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Posted

Hi Uwe.

Here is a pic.

post-66477-0-86708600-1448403245_thumb.j

post-66477-0-39773300-1448403273_thumb.j

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