Trace Report post Posted October 6, 2015 I recently purchased a Singer 16-188 and 1300-1 industrial sewing machines from an estate sale. The owner had an upholstery business and had passed away. I got both machines, one table with a clutch motor and a lot of parts that don’t necessarily go to either machine. I have just under $300 in the purchase and felt that it was worth the money. I wanted to use them for light leather work and both seem to sew pretty well. The 16-188 has a walking foot and the other a straight sewing machine. The problem that I am having is the 1300-1 was balling up on the bottom side. (I am mainly turning this one by hand). I tightened the upper tension and made sure the needle was completely up and locked then is started working a lot better. Tonight when I tried it, it started balling up again. On the 16-188 I changed the needle (it was a little shorter) and it wouldn’t pick up the tread and was just poking holes. I put another one, different size and it was doing the same thing. I found one in the treasures that was the same length but was a little bigger and it started out ok then started getting caught somewhere and it was fraying the thread at the needle eye. That is when I decided to give it up this evening. This is the first machine that I have used and have been hand stitching for over a year now. I was thinking for the money this might speed things up and give me more options. Not sure where to go from here. Maybe I have two expensive boat anchors. Any advice would be very appreciated no matter how much it hurts. Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted October 6, 2015 Thread fraying can be caused by a chewed up needle hole in the needle plate,the 1300 might be balling up because it isn't threaded correctly,not enough upper thread tension or the thread is too big for it,the 1300 is for sewing clothes not leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Thanks Cowboy Bob for the reply. Do you have any suggestions on the 16-188 machine? It was sewing fine until I changed the needle. This guy had boxes of needles but I couldn't find one that was exactly the same as the one I took out. It was about the same length but maybe just a little bigger around but not much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishful Report post Posted October 7, 2015 http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html You can find the manual for the 16-88 at the above link. Be sure you are using the correct needle system/size and it is threaded properly. Sometimes the frey can occur when the hook is too close to the needle or even out of time just a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Trace, I had issues with the hook sometimes catching individual strands in the thread (Singer 51W59). I found that when I had adjusted the hook timing I wasn't accurate enough and the needle bar was too high. Once I lowered the needle bar (a little more than the figure in the manual - we're talking a mm or so here) it was fine. I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it demonstrates how critical the timing is. You need to get the manual and read it lots of times to understand the timing setup. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 8, 2015 http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html You can find the manual for the 16-88 at the above link. Be sure you are using the correct needle system/size and it is threaded properly. Sometimes the frey can occur when the hook is too close to the needle or even out of time just a bit. Wishful Thanks for the info, I will check this out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 8, 2015 Trace, I had issues with the hook sometimes catching individual strands in the thread (Singer 51W59). I found that when I had adjusted the hook timing I wasn't accurate enough and the needle bar was too high. Once I lowered the needle bar (a little more than the figure in the manual - we're talking a mm or so here) it was fine. I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it demonstrates how critical the timing is. You need to get the manual and read it lots of times to understand the timing setup. Dikman Thanks for the information. I'm not sure where to get the needles at. The manual says 16 X 44 and sizes 14 - 25 for leather. I don't know if they changed the part number or what? I can't seem to find that part. I just want to make sure I am getting the correct needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 8, 2015 Those needles are now made of Unobtanium Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 8, 2015 The listed needle size for my 51W59 appears to be made of the same stuff. I went to a shop that specialises in industrial machines, told them what I wanted and they came up with an equivalent size that they sold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Those needles are now made of Unobtanium The concept of unobtainium is often applied flippantly or humorously. For instance, unobtainium is described as being stronger than helium, and lighter than air. They must be some damned good needles. ;} The listed needle size for my 51W59 appears to be made of the same stuff. I went to a shop that specialises in industrial machines, told them what I wanted and they came up with an equivalent size that they sold. Hopefully I can have the same luck as you did. I have about 6 or 7 boxes of 100 needles (each box a different size) He had 6 machines all different. Maybe I can get something to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 9, 2015 The concept of unobtainium is often applied flippantly or humorously. For instance, unobtainium is described as being stronger than helium, and lighter than air. They must be some damned good needles. ;} Unobtanium needles are actually constructed of an immeasurable amount of triple resublimated thiotimaline, rendering them absolutely clear to the naked eye. The needles exist, so to speak, but cannot be seen. They are meant to be used to sew invisible thread, also containing triple resublimated thiotimaline. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Unobtanium needles are actually constructed of an immeasurable amount of triple resublimated thiotimaline, rendering them absolutely clear to the naked eye. The needles exist, so to speak, but cannot be seen. They are meant to be used to sew invisible thread, also containing triple resublimated thiotimaline. SAFETY WARNING:: You forgot to mention the part about the special atomic shielding needed due to the fact that the hole the needles make is so small it is actually a negative hole, and can disrupt the spacetime continuum, causing bad things and stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 9, 2015 I thik I'll stick to my plain steel needles....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Try a different needles system, maybe 135x17 and adjust the needles bar accordingly. I have setup a couple of machines with 135x17 needles, f.i. Singer 17, Pfaff 145, Singer 96K. And I´m just refurbishing a Singer 34K S.V. 5 post bed machine and if possible I will set it up to 135x17 as well. I´m using 135x17 needles when ever possible. Advantage is you don´t have to stock different needles system in various sizes and tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Unobtanium needles are actually constructed of an immeasurable amount of triple resublimated thiotimaline, rendering them absolutely clear to the naked eye. The needles exist, so to speak, but cannot be seen. They are meant to be used to sew invisible thread, also containing triple resublimated thiotimaline. Any recommendations on what would be the best fishing boat for my clearly visible boat anchor? I like your description but somehow I got to rig this thing up so I can at least justify to my better half I did the right thing. She doesn't like to fish..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Any recommendations on what would be the best fishing boat for my clearly visible boat anchor? I like your description but somehow I got to rig this thing up so I can at least justify to my better half I did the right thing. She doesn't like to fish..... Yes, Trace. Get a boat made of thiotimaline infused Unconstructium! The boats are sold by the same people who distribute the Unobtanium needles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted October 9, 2015 Constabulary is right,the 135x17 or 135x16D(leather point) should work,that is what we always sell for these machines & they are very easy to find.You might have to drop the needlebar down 1/8" to make them work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trace Report post Posted October 10, 2015 Constabulary is right,the 135x17 or 135x16D(leather point) should work,that is what we always sell for these machines & they are very easy to find.You might have to drop the needlebar down 1/8" to make them work. Thanks again Cowboy Bob. I will check into that. Have a great weekend! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites