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Posted

I recently purchased a Singer 16-188 and 1300-1 industrial sewing machines from an estate sale. The owner had an upholstery business and had passed away. I got both machines, one table with a clutch motor and a lot of parts that don’t necessarily go to either machine. I have just under $300 in the purchase and felt that it was worth the money.

I wanted to use them for light leather work and both seem to sew pretty well. The 16-188 has a walking foot and the other a straight sewing machine. The problem that I am having is the 1300-1 was balling up on the bottom side. (I am mainly turning this one by hand). I tightened the upper tension and made sure the needle was completely up and locked then is started working a lot better. Tonight when I tried it, it started balling up again.

On the 16-188 I changed the needle (it was a little shorter) and it wouldn’t pick up the tread and was just poking holes. I put another one, different size and it was doing the same thing. I found one in the treasures that was the same length but was a little bigger and it started out ok then started getting caught somewhere and it was fraying the thread at the needle eye. That is when I decided to give it up this evening.

This is the first machine that I have used and have been hand stitching for over a year now. I was thinking for the money this might speed things up and give me more options. Not sure where to go from here. Maybe I have two expensive boat anchors. Any advice would be very appreciated no matter how much it hurts.

Thank you

Posted

Thread fraying can be caused by a chewed up needle hole in the needle plate,the 1300 might be balling up because it isn't threaded correctly,not enough upper thread tension or the thread is too big for it,the 1300 is for sewing clothes not leather.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted

Thanks Cowboy Bob for the reply. Do you have any suggestions on the 16-188 machine? It was sewing fine until I changed the needle. This guy had boxes of needles but I couldn't find one that was exactly the same as the one I took out. It was about the same length but maybe just a little bigger around but not much.

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Posted

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html

You can find the manual for the 16-88 at the above link. Be sure you are using the correct needle system/size and it is threaded properly. Sometimes the frey can occur when the hook is too close to the needle or even out of time just a bit.

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Posted

Trace, I had issues with the hook sometimes catching individual strands in the thread (Singer 51W59). I found that when I had adjusted the hook timing I wasn't accurate enough and the needle bar was too high. Once I lowered the needle bar (a little more than the figure in the manual - we're talking a mm or so here) it was fine. I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it demonstrates how critical the timing is. You need to get the manual and read it lots of times to understand the timing setup.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html

You can find the manual for the 16-88 at the above link. Be sure you are using the correct needle system/size and it is threaded properly. Sometimes the frey can occur when the hook is too close to the needle or even out of time just a bit.

Wishful

Thanks for the info, I will check this out.

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Posted

Trace, I had issues with the hook sometimes catching individual strands in the thread (Singer 51W59). I found that when I had adjusted the hook timing I wasn't accurate enough and the needle bar was too high. Once I lowered the needle bar (a little more than the figure in the manual - we're talking a mm or so here) it was fine. I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it demonstrates how critical the timing is. You need to get the manual and read it lots of times to understand the timing setup.

Dikman

Thanks for the information. I'm not sure where to get the needles at. The manual says 16 X 44 and sizes 14 - 25 for leather. I don't know if they changed the part number or what? I can't seem to find that part. I just want to make sure I am getting the correct needle.

  • Moderator
Posted

Those needles are now made of Unobtanium

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

:rofl:

The listed needle size for my 51W59 appears to be made of the same stuff. I went to a shop that specialises in industrial machines, told them what I wanted and they came up with an equivalent size that they sold.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • Members
Posted

Those needles are now made of Unobtanium

The concept of unobtainium is often applied flippantly or humorously. For instance, unobtainium is described as being stronger than helium, and lighter than air.

They must be some damned good needles. ;}

:rofl:

The listed needle size for my 51W59 appears to be made of the same stuff. I went to a shop that specialises in industrial machines, told them what I wanted and they came up with an equivalent size that they sold.

Hopefully I can have the same luck as you did. I have about 6 or 7 boxes of 100 needles (each box a different size) He had 6 machines all different. Maybe I can get something to work.

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