To Dye Before Wet Forming Or After?

[Doubledamage]

I'm new to leather crafting and using a blog. If this should be posted elsewhere please advise. I tried running a search with no luck.

I'm making leather greaves of veg tan cow hide.

Stencils and cuts are done, tooling to be done soon.

As it is relatively flat I will be wet forming it to fit around my leg so I wondered if I should:

dye it first, then wet form?

wet form, then dye? (I think this might be the way to go)

or other suggestions?

I'm using kelly green fiebings for the majority of it but I have a stag in the middle I would like to keep a lighter color

maybe use the color block stuff and some hi light for the tooling recesses?

Attached is the greave to be worked on and bracers I did that it will be matching.

Thanks for any input!

[Boriqua]

I'm new to leather crafting and using a blog. If this should be posted elsewhere please advise. I tried running a search with no luck.

I'm making leather greaves of veg tan cow hide.

Stencils and cuts are done, tooling to be done soon.

As it is relatively flat I will be wet forming it to fit around my leg so I wondered if I should:

dye it first, then wet form?

wet form, then dye? (I think this might be the way to go)

or other suggestions?

I'm using kelly green fiebings for the majority of it but I have a stag in the middle I would like to keep a lighter color

maybe use the color block stuff and some hi light for the tooling recesses?

Attached is the greave to be worked on and bracers I did that it will be matching.

Thanks for any input!

I have wetformed holsters before and after dying using Fiebings solvent based dyes and have had no problem with the boning and forming either way. It gets more complicated if you are using antiques and or using acrylics but just straight up Fiebings should be good either way. The highlighter and block you will have to do after forming.

Edited October 23, 2015 by Boriqua

[Doubledamage]

Thank you, that helps out a lot!

[TinkerTailor]

Experiment. I have done it both ways. If the leather takes on water, and you stayed away from water based finishes, you probably would be ok forming after dying. One problem that pops up is the grain side tends to wrinkle more in inside curves after dying due to the leather being dryed out by the dye. Oiling it to correct the dryness can prevent the water from penetrating all the way through, leading to forming problems. Not oiling can lead to surface cracks. Depends on the leather as well as the dye. Best to try on some scrap and see if it works in YOUR situation, because the number of materials variables we as leatherworkers deal with make this the only way to know for sure.

NEVER EXPERIMENT ON A PROJECT....this is a rule many learn the hard way. Don't throw out hours of hard work due to a failed experiment. Test on scrap. Sometimes scrap turns into projects.. My EDC coin purse is made from a failed dye experiment scrap that i kinda liked the mottled effect, though I am glad I went a different route with the actual bag I was making.

[Doubledamage]

That is some excellent advice.

Some patience, considering I'm putting numerous hours into tooling designing, cutting, and tooling, would be well served.

Also it seems every piece of leather has it's own unique personality when it comes to taking dye or tooling.

Thank you!

[stampingdelight]

what kind of oil is best to use to keep the inside of the leather or outside of the leather from cracking?

 

I also have made arm bracer & they mold to your arms even without getting them wet at least mine did

[Hags]

I've done both as well, and have had good luck with each.  Boning and forming can cause a difference in absorption,  but that can be considered  character to me. I have gone to using fiebings pro dyes,  and like the results much better,  and a lot less rub off. Still, use gloves or you'll have  colored hands,  helps eliminate fingernail mark's too. I use pure neats foot oil on my holsters and sheaths. I've heard of many using olive oil, but have never tried that myself.