Cuttin' Leather With A Bandsaw

[Troy I]

I've used a drill press in the past to drill holes...works will with a stiff backing.

What make, model or brand of band saw would you all recommend. I was looking at the Skil from Lowes for around $ 130. It is a bench top band saw.

[veedub3]

I've used a drill press in the past to drill holes...works will with a stiff backing.

What make, model or brand of band saw would you all recommend. I was looking at the Skil from Lowes for around $ 130. It is a bench top band saw.

I owned a Skil bandsaw from Lowes and it worked great for the samll projects i was working on! It will definitely work well on leather. I outgrew my SKil and sold it on Craigslist. I now have a Craftsman 10" and a Laguna 14".

FYI - Sears has a Craftsman 9" for $107. I would go with the Craftsman over the Skil. (This might just be the Black Friday Holiday price, Not sure, but if you are going to get one, this would be the time to grab it.)

Karina

Edited November 29, 2015 by veedub3

[Troy I]

Thank you Karina...I too would choose a Craftsman over a Skil.

The band saw is on my Christmas List...I'm hoping Santa will bring it. I will forward your information to Mrs Claus.

Also thank you TinkerTailor for the blade information.

Edited November 29, 2015 by Troy I

[bullmoosepaddles]

The link listed above has options for blade type:

This band knife blade is designed with its “razor-edge” available in straight, scallop or wavy cutting edges and a single or double edge bevel. The Razor-Edge band knife by Starrett is ideal for cutting foam, rubber, cork, cardboard, paper and soft plastic.

May I ask which of these is the better blade?

[Hunhunt]

I'm primarily a woodworker/furniture maker and have only recently begun leather work. I make shoes mostly and use my 18" bandsaw for cutting soles to shape after gluing to the midsole/upper. Works great. I also use my lathe for grinding/finishing edges using sanding drums since I can't justify the expense of a shoe repair line finisher. I occasionally use a 6"x48" stationary belt sander with 24 grit belts as well for edge grinding and sole roughing but it gets pretty tense using that tool which runs at 3600 rpm. Vee grooves are made with a super quality Swiss made vee carving chisel. It's amazing how many woodworking tools can serve a dual purpose for leather work.

[snubbyfan]

I'm primarily a woodworker/furniture maker and have only recently begun leather work. I make shoes mostly and use my 18" bandsaw for cutting soles to shape after gluing to the midsole/upper. Works great. I also use my lathe for grinding/finishing edges using sanding drums since I can't justify the expense of a shoe repair line finisher. I occasionally use a 6"x48" stationary belt sander with 24 grit belts as well for edge grinding and sole roughing but it gets pretty tense using that tool which runs at 3600 rpm. Vee grooves are made with a super quality Swiss made vee carving chisel. It's amazing how many woodworking tools can serve a dual purpose for leather work.

Same here. I used to do custom wood work.

Along with a bandsaw, I use a stationary belt and disc sander. I've got a sanding drum chucked up in my drill press for getting into those tight inside curves.

I've got a project coming up where I'll need to make a wooden blank for a cellphone holder.

[Hunhunt]

Another use for the stationary belt/disc sander is for re-shaping wooden shoe lasts. I buy used maple lasts (some with pretty nice curl figure) off Ebay and re-shape them for my preferred profile.

[SantaFeMarie]

How do you guide the leather through the bandsaw without stretching or otherwise distorting it?

[TinkerTailor]

How do you guide the leather through the bandsaw without stretching or otherwise distorting it?

If it is stretching and distorting, it is probably easier to do it with a knife anyways or you are not using proper technique.

I can't see how the saw would cause distortion in most veg tan leather if it is sharp, set up correctly and the user isn't forcing it. With proper technique, sideways blade pressure is eliminated on the work side of the blade to keep curves sharp. This involves cutting twice, once close to the line to remove most of the waste and again on the line to get a nice edge. Bandsaws do have a learning curve.

[Sonydaze]

I have been taking stiffer leathers into the woodworking shop for some time. I cut close to the line with the bandsaw, then finish the straight edges on the belt sander, convex radius' on the disk sander and concave radius' on the orbital spindle sander. It is quick and you get nice edges with a bit of practice. I have also had some success beveling edges on the router table with a corner bit.