Using Fiebing Antique Paste

[bushpilotmexico]

Hi everyone,

I know I'm not the brightest bulb in the chandelier and have been struggling using antique paste. I found this link with, I suppose, an excellent video:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35656

I made up a test piece and followed what I was supposed to do. I stamped my leather, used the neatsfoot, let it dry, applied the resist (Wyo-sheen), let it dry and then applied the antique paste. The paste was like rain drops bouncing off a newly polished car. The resist had acted like a sealer and the paste just wiped on and wiped off with no penetration.

I have to be missing something and any help would be appreciated.

Thx

[electrathon]

There should be no penetration. The resist is a sealer. The antique should only stay in the cuts and tooling hash marks.

[bushpilotmexico]

There should be no penetration. The resist is a sealer. The antique should only stay in the cuts and tooling hash marks.

So if you rub hard you'll take it out of the cuts and impressions in the leather? Why does it come in different colors?

[Colt W Knight]

Antique paste is just to add contrast to your tooling. It builds up in the low spots making them darker. The paste hides some cut marks, smooths out the appearance, and adds contrast (shadowing effect) to work. It is not meant to be a stand alone finish.

You apply a lighter coat of dye/stain to the tooled leather. Seal it so the anitique paste does not discolor the previous dye/stain, and then rub the paste(a darker color) into the low spots, and wipe off the excess.

[electrathon]

So if you rub hard you'll take it out of the cuts and impressions in the leather? Why does it come in different colors?

Yes, you can rub virtually all of it back off if you try to. A soft cloth like t-shirt material works well to leave a little behind. The different colors are used just like different dyes. You can highlight from dark brown to black.

[bushpilotmexico]

Antique paste is just to add contrast to your tooling. It builds up in the low spots making them darker. The paste hides some cut marks, smooths out the appearance, and adds contrast (shadowing effect) to work. It is not meant to be a stand alone finish.

You apply a lighter coat of dye/stain to the tooled leather. Seal it so the anitique paste does not discolor the previous dye/stain, and then rub the paste(a darker color) into the low spots, and wipe off the excess.

OK, that is interesting and explains a lot.....once the paste is left in the low spots (depends on thickness I guess) how long would it take to dry before you top coat it with resolene or leather sheen?

[Colt W Knight]

I topcoat as soon as its dry to the touch.

[bushpilotmexico]

I topcoat as soon as its dry to the touch.

I was wondering because the paste is down in all the inaccessible cracks and crevices and difficult to actually feel if it has dried. I guess if it hasn't dried properly top coating it while wet would mean that it's sandwiched between the resist and the top coat and probably would never dry?

[Colt W Knight]

It would dry eventually, just take longer. Id be more worried about the top coat making it run or smear if it weren't dry enough

[NVLeatherWorx]

Reality is that you should allow your Antique paste application to dry no less than 8 hours and you should be good to go after 12 at the high end. Applying a top coat before it is dry could, depending on the top coat used, cause the remaining paste in the cuts and contrasting areas to rub off onto clothing or other leather parts that you don't want it on as it will penetrate through the top coating, especially when flexed.

[terrymac]

I guess I do it a little different as I used wool pads to get the paste off. I do not want any in the tool marks and cuts. The paste has done its job and they are high lighted. If you leave any, you will normally get that "mud puddle" effect. Wool pads are the only means I have found to get all of the paste, rags will not do it. Watch Keith Valley's video on antiquing and you will see what I mean. This only applies to Fiebings paste. Ecoflo is a different monster and I do not know any thing about it.

Terry

[bushpilotmexico]

I guess I do it a little different as I used wool pads to get the paste off. I do not want any in the tool marks and cuts. The paste has done its job and they are high lighted. If you leave any, you will normally get that "mud puddle" effect. Wool pads are the only means I have found to get all of the paste, rags will not do it. Watch Keith Valley's video on antiquing and you will see what I mean. This only applies to Fiebings paste. Ecoflo is a different monster and I do not know any thing about it.

Terry

I guess this is the point i am trying to make, if you rub until it's all out of the tool marks and cuts and any impressions let's say a basket weave stamp has caused then what's the effect?

Thx

[TwinOaks]

In Keith's video, when he gets to the 'removal' segment, he's removing excess. There's still a tiny bit left in the nooks and crannies...which is what makes the effect.