Will The $150 Chinese Servo Motors From Ebay Work On An Old Adler 68?

[Constabulary]

Just wanted to have it mentioned because usually these machines have a lock lever on the adjuster. Try a manual from an Adler 67or 167 flat bed machine or the 168, 268 post bed amchines, they are updated models but pretty much the same technology.

https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/downloads/manuals.html

[Vinculus]

Thanks again. What would I do without you guys...

[sandyt]

I guess it has something to do with the air operated back stitching. Just a thought.

[Vinculus]

Weird, the listing for the machine says it doesn't use air.

Anyways, I ordered the JK511/513 motor for the machine and will pick up the machine itself on Thursday. Hopefully everything works out. Really, really looking forward to closing uppers with a roller foot machine.

[Darren Brosowski]

I know that supplier and they are very good motors but you need to consider the import costs and lack of warranty.

[dikman]

Vinculus, the Chinese servo should be a straight swap for the existing motor (mounting points the same). The only thing you may have to do is buy a replacement belt as the pulley spacing may change slightly. I notice it comes with a 75 mm pulley (most do) but you can pick up a 45 mm replacement pulley pretty cheap on ebay from China. I strongly suggest you consider getting one - I fitted them to my two servos - as it will help with getting the lower speeds.

Sandyt, an impressive job with the pulley on the G166. I tried the same thing on mine, but found that the design of the existing handwheel created a problem - the handwheel has a sleeve, for want of a better word, as part of the wheel, that fits inside the main bearing on the head. Without that sleeve I found the main shaft could oscillate, which was not a good thing! So I didn't fit a larger pulley.

Curious how you did it.

[sandyt]

Haha, I was surprised also when I took the original wheel off.

I went for a cheap temporarily fix. I just cut off the 'sleeve' from the wheel and put that piece back on the shaft and in the bearing. Locked everything in place with a little bit of locktite. Not to much, so I could take everything easily apart for maintanance in the future when I had too. Bit it sat realy sturdy and did not move or whatever. So I left it that way.

Great setup. I regret selling it. Realy smooth and powerfull machine.

I always make these 'conversions' on my machines when it has just a clutch motor. Sometimes I also put a frequentie converter on it.

[Vinculus]

Alright, so I picked up the machine yesterday. The stitch length lock lever is there, so it was probably just missing at the time the picture was taken, but the seller has installed a new one. As a side-note, it's a model 68-2.

Since it doesn't have any motor at the moment, I've only been able to test the machine by rotating the handwheel manually. It sews nicely on the piece of folded chrome tanned leather that came with the machine. When I tried doing a few stitches on a piece of 6 oz. veg tan leather, however, it made a mess on the underside of the material and didn't properly tighten the bobbin thread. It was all just a cluster of thread and the bobbin thread laid in the middle of it. The top thread also got stuck where the bobbin thread comes up at the end of my row of stitches. I did a few rows of stitching, but they all ended up the same. When I put the chrome tanned piece back and did a few stitches on that, it worked fine again.

This is probably just a simple tension issue, but where might the adjustment need to be made?

Gotta say it's pretty confusing to be using an industrial sewing machine for the first time. Lots of growing pains!

Edited December 4, 2015 by Vinculus

[Northmount]

Needs more top tension, or larger needle, or more pressure on the presser foot to keep it from lifting on the upstroke. Veg tan is harder than chrome tanned.

Tom

[Vinculus]

Thanks Tom! I switched to a lighter thread (Serafil 40/tex 70) and actually had to decrease the top thread tension by a lot, but it seems to be making nice stitches now. I also found it helped to hold on to the ends of both of the top and bobbin thread when starting a seam. Otherwise the threads would get "sucked" under the feed dogs and birds nest galore. Guess it's just a learning process.

Edited December 4, 2015 by Vinculus