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. . . another good product: Chemtool. Spray it on, brush it with a brass brush, lubricate after clean -- Bobs your uncle!

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Posted (edited)

if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1.

Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

I'd be tempted to go down the electrolysis bath route. Purely because it doesn't look as if you can afford to lose any more metal.

Parts for the 29K4 and earlier are quite difficult to replace, so you might want to consider not so much a restoration job, but a parts salvage operation.

It might be worth considering using it as a donor machine, and removing and cleaning up as many parts as you can, then selling them to buy a better condition 29K .

 

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Posted

Wot Constabulary and Lumpen said!

Electrolysis for two or three days will get the machine to the point where it can be much more easily disassembled.

Some parts may need more time in the bath with a new sacrificial anode.

Wash, dry and oil parts when they are done in the bath as the clean metal will quickly rust up again. It is easy to clean the oil off again for painting.

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Posted

if you really (really really really) want to restore it I´d set up a big electrolysis bath tank and let it "cook" for a few days. Meanwhile this is my preferred method for removing rust and paint from old machines and parts with "not so nice" exterior. I have a squared 65 liter tub that works for machines up to a size of a 29K long arm or Adler 30-1.

Therese are dozens of videos on youtube and information on Google so I don´t have to tell the story by my self.

This is a great step for rusty but electrolysis can be hampered by greasy surfaces. Also makes the electrolyte dirty and nasty way faster, partly because oils float but electrolyzed metal oxides sink.

I would actually soak it, wash it, and then either electro-zap it or dunk in evaporust. That stuff actually works pretty good. It does not offgas hydrogen like electrolysis, which can be a problem if it build up in a small space.

"If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing."

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Posted (edited)

Thats part of the game but his machines does not look as if it had been oiled recently. Yet I had no problems with this method. I don´t think the amount of hydrogen coming from the bath is critical. But as always it depends on the concentration and a good ventilation (opening the door from time to time) can´t be wrong even when you work with kerosene and stuff like that. However - Many ways lead to Rome...

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

I do all of my electrolysis outdoors so no problems.

Usually the parts with fine tolerances such as bearing surfaces are protected by oil and are not damaged by electrolysis.

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Posted

There is a circa 1880 antique revolver in my collection that came looking way worse than this machine.

It was completely seized and covered in a thick soft rust that snowballed around most of the parts.

Soaked in acetone for a couple weeks, it cleaned nicely and now it seems to have never lost the original raven feather kind of bluing.

Even the original walnut grips cleaned nicely by tightly wrapping in acetone soaked soft cloth several times - it pulls sweat, fat and oil out of wood.

This machine looks very restorable to me, but of course practicality of that undertaking totally depends on the owner's priorities.

Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)

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Posted

Hi everybody. Thank for your advices. After a lot of lubrication spray most of screws and parts was loosened easily but a few not. I attempted with freeze spray, blowtorch and impact screwdriver but it doesn't work. Now my next step will be try electrolysis and kerosene to disassemble completely.
Probably I might had started with electrolysis as many of you said and save some hours. I know this for next time.
Constabulary you are right, the missed parts replacement cost above 200€ if I buy it, but I can make some of them and reduce the total cost of restoration.
I will try this restoration only for fun. I already have a 29k in perfect work condition.

My sewing machines: Singer 29K1, Singer 48W6, Sigma A, Refrey Transforma 427, Singer 14SH754

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