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Thats part of the game but his machines does not look as if it had been oiled recently. Yet I had no problems with this method. I don´t think the amount of hydrogen coming from the bath is critical. But as always it depends on the concentration and a good ventilation (opening the door from time to time) can´t be wrong even when you work with kerosene and stuff like that. However - Many ways lead to Rome...

Edited by Constabulary

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I do all of my electrolysis outdoors so no problems.

Usually the parts with fine tolerances such as bearing surfaces are protected by oil and are not damaged by electrolysis.

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There is a circa 1880 antique revolver in my collection that came looking way worse than this machine.

It was completely seized and covered in a thick soft rust that snowballed around most of the parts.

Soaked in acetone for a couple weeks, it cleaned nicely and now it seems to have never lost the original raven feather kind of bluing.

Even the original walnut grips cleaned nicely by tightly wrapping in acetone soaked soft cloth several times - it pulls sweat, fat and oil out of wood.

This machine looks very restorable to me, but of course practicality of that undertaking totally depends on the owner's priorities.

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Hi everybody. Thank for your advices. After a lot of lubrication spray most of screws and parts was loosened easily but a few not. I attempted with freeze spray, blowtorch and impact screwdriver but it doesn't work. Now my next step will be try electrolysis and kerosene to disassemble completely.
Probably I might had started with electrolysis as many of you said and save some hours. I know this for next time.
Constabulary you are right, the missed parts replacement cost above 200€ if I buy it, but I can make some of them and reduce the total cost of restoration.
I will try this restoration only for fun. I already have a 29k in perfect work condition.

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