BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 9, 2015 After 400 videos on YouTube showing me how easy and fun leather working could be, I decided to go out and buy some tools. I stopped by the craft store and got a few precut kit pieces. The leather is very thin. After watching videos of how to case it, I went in for the kill! Very inconsistent stamp marks, and looks like a 6 year old did it. I'm not using a marble piece under the leather, I'm using what I assume is crap leather, and I probably did the casing wrong. Either way, I'm getting discouraged! (Sorry for my lack of leather lingo). What do I do ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgleathercraft Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Don't get discouraged!!!! It takes time. Ask plenty of questions, read the how to's on this site, and watch 400 more videos lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Should I order some good quality leather to tool on? This stuff I'm getting from Michaels and hobby lobby is crap I think. I'm still trying to get this casing thing down also. Should I order some good quality leather to tool on? This stuff I'm getting from Michaels and hobby lobby is crap I think. I'm still trying to get this casing thing down also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgleathercraft Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Ordering a veg tan remnants pack usually gets a few different weights and quality of leathers. Its better than buying and trashing a shoulder or a side. Casing is an art in itself. I've done it several ways and settled on a method that works for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted December 9, 2015 YOU BEGAN YOUR ENDEAVOR AT THE WRONG PLACES. Read everything you can on this site, buy some Al Stohlman books on leather work, don't visit Hobby Lobby or Michaels for supplies. Visit a Tandy Leather store if you can. Most of the folks running the stores are knowledgeable enough to guide you. I would be discouraged also if I had began as you. lol ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Tandy has classes. If there is one near you give them a look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) I wouldnt get anything from tandy. I bought a tandy handstitching kit for 100 dollars by a recommendation from the tandy storeowner, if Id known what I known now I would of walked out the door. Still annoys me a little. There is two sides to learning the skill, knowledge and hand - eye cordination. Edited December 9, 2015 by DavidL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 9, 2015 there is a Tandy not too far away, I might stop in and just see what I can learn and pick up some remnants just to try out. My swivel knife basically skips and stops through the leather. Not smooth at all. I'm assuming it's this beef jerky type leather I'm using because I have sharpened this knife exactly how all the videos I've watched. The blade seems sharp . When I cases my leather, I quickly dipped it in water, and then let it sit for about 8-10 hours. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CrazedLemming Report post Posted December 9, 2015 (edited) Did you stick it in a container to keep it from drying? If all you did was dip it in water and let it sit on the table for 8+ hours, you're trying to carve dry leather. Try doing the simple way, wipe water on it with a wet sponge or rag and then cut when the color changes back to normal in a few minutes. It may not be proper casing, but it will get you practicing faster. Working with leather is an art. It takes time and practice to get a feel for it. Edited December 9, 2015 by CrazedLemming Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 9, 2015 Yes I let it sit out on the table, it was damp and cool when I was cutting it the next day. I tried to use the sponge also and let it sit for about 20 minutes. I really think that this leather from Michaels is crap. My swivel knife makes super thin lines in it also, all the videos I see , their lines look soft and thicker . It looks like butter, when I cut it looks like I'm sawing beef jerky lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Make sure you are using Vegetable Tanned leather. Other types of tannage will not behave for you, and will not in most cases retain the stamp impressions. Proper casing is necessary to both swivel knife cuts and for stamping. A couple other threads that may be of help to you are http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64096&hl=+casing%20+carving&page=1 and http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66536&hl Takes practice, looking at others work and examples, and more practice. Keep at it, it will get better. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted December 10, 2015 The way you described casing the leather was not going to give you good results. There are numerous threads describing methods of casing which will help. Also, I've been in Michaels and never bought any leather there but didn't notice any junk either. It might help to tell us exactly what you bought. Could be the type doesn't lend itself to tooling, not all leather does, of course. Do you have a product description or item code? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted December 10, 2015 TO: DAVIDL Do not bad mouth Tandy to every one who is trying to get started in this Art. Sure, they have a lot of junk these days but they have some good stuff too, you have to know what you are getting before you pay for it. That isn't only when you buy at Tandy. If not for Tandy I would never have begun this fabulous medium 60 years ago. The store in Miami Florida told me I paid their rent for two years. I have some of the best leather I have bought anywhere that came from Tandy and I have some of the worst. Unfortunately a lot of things are not as they used to be, get over it. ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike516 Report post Posted December 10, 2015 You're not going to become a master leather worker in a couple of days. You also don't need to buy the best tools right away. Tandy is good for a beginner as long as you watch that they don't take advantage of you and do your research before you buy a lot of stuff there, then you can upgrade your tools as you get better and learn what you really need. Casing is probably the most important thing you'll learn and it takes practice. It took me a long time before I really got consistently happy with my casing. It's something worth investing your time in because once you get it where you like it, you'll never forget how to do it. See the threads offered above and don't get discouraged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Look up Ed LaBarre, he lives down there and you will not find a more talented person or a better teacher. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sporty1 Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Practice. Practice,Practice and practice some more. I have bought some leather squares at Hobby Lobby. I believe they were 8.5 X 11 sold individually wrapped and are actually from Tandy. Package should say veg. tanned and also indicate good for tooling. They work well for practice carving and stamping. I agree though if you have a Tandy Leather close by, you can get more for your money. Don't give up if it's something you enjoy, it will become addicting!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Don't know if you are in the Miami area, but Daddy's Leather Supply is a great place to get Leathercraft goods and tools and most important, all the information you need. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 10, 2015 Thanks for all the information. This is what I purchased, I quickly dipped it in and out of a Tupperware with water. It was probably submerged for 1-2 seconds, then sat out in the open for the night, the next day I started messing with it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted December 10, 2015 WAY to dry. Submerge till saturated, then let sit out for a few hours. Or, use a spray bottle, saturate the top, wait 10 minutes, carve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted December 11, 2015 TO: DAVIDL Do not bad mouth Tandy to every one who is trying to get started in this Art. Sure, they have a lot of junk these days but they have some good stuff too, you have to know what you are getting before you pay for it. That isn't only when you buy at Tandy. If not for Tandy I would never have begun this fabulous medium 60 years ago. The store in Miami Florida told me I paid their rent for two years. I have some of the best leather I have bought anywhere that came from Tandy and I have some of the worst. Unfortunately a lot of things are not as they used to be, get over it. ferg Once again Ferg, you and I agree. I too have gotten good and bad stuff from Tandy. You just have to pay attention to what you are getting. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted December 11, 2015 On another note, casing is an art. There is a good tutorial on this sight by Bob Park (one of the premier leather tooler's today). Follow it and you will find quickly that good tooling starts with proper casing. When I case, I always do it the same, I dunk it in water till the bubbles stop, then let it set out for most of the day, then put it in plastic, (since most of my work is in sizes larger than will fit in a baggie, I use large garbage bags) let it set overnight then let it sit out till the surface color almost comes back to normal, I begin tooling from there. I use a spray bottle with a distilled water/listerene/dishwashing soap mixture to keep it at the dampness level I like. I usually don't get a piece done in a day, so whenever possible if it will sit overnight, I cover it with a pane of glass to keep the moisture where I like it. Hope that helps. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BullRiderJoe Report post Posted December 12, 2015 When I cut my pattern into the leather, I can do that while it's still fairly wet correct? (As in too wet for stamping) yesterday I made my best and smoothest cuts on some pretty wet leather, I wasn't going to attempt to stamp it, being as it was pretty soggy. Also, I feel like my blade is too wide, I think I would like a 1/4" blade, are these shorter blades easier? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) You probably lucked out with your knife cuts this time or they aren't quite as good as you think at this point. Leather should be the same to cut as it is when you stamp/tool. For finer detail I like to use the narrower blades, also the angled blades. I find them easier to use for most work I do. ferg Edited December 12, 2015 by 50 years leather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerseyFirefighter Report post Posted December 12, 2015 As a relatively newer leather crafter, I can share your frustration starting off. I do not have any leather craft outlets anywhere near me so all of my leather tools and supplies are ordered online. Try your best to avoid places like AC Moore, Michaels, Hobby Lobby (aside from hearing they had tandy branded kits). It took me quite a bit of research just to find the right type of leather to buy to suit my projects. Videos are great resources, but hands on practice is where you will turn visual retention of those video into motor skill refinement. Tandy is a great place for beginners, as are places like Springfield Leather. Tandy catches a good deal of crap from people (in some cases justified) however they have been able to be an easy place to get a lot of the tools and supplies beginners and even more seasoned vets need for their projects. It's more reasonable to buy cheaper tools to start off to no only learn in a cost effective manner, but to appreciate the differences of cheap and quality tools as you upgrade. My first few carving attempts looked as you described...like as if a child did it. I suspect when a welder starts learning the trade his/her welds aren't the prettiest thing... they get better with more time logged in honing their craft. You'll get there... Save that first project somewhere you can find later on. You'll be both amazed and embarrassed over how far you will have come. Good Luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
X31 Report post Posted December 13, 2015 Not that Tandy or hobby lobby is great but when that's the only game in town you do what you have to.they actually might make you better because you're going to have to learn to improvise. As far as casing the times you guy s talk about is unbelievable you would never get a project done, and I live in one of the humid places in the country,are you sure you're buying veg tan it is right next to the other leather in Michaels. As far as Tandy its about a two hour drive away for me and since Michaels. And hobby lobby do not sell half of the basic tools that are needed ,there's just so much improvising will take you, I have to go. And since the tools I bought at the two hobby stores are mostly cheaply made (they really are ) and the people working there say they get their supply from Tandy, I feel I have to go there and not order over the phone or internet. All that being said I love doing leather work and I'd continue doing it even if I have to use a tack puller to take care of the edges for the rest of my life.(like I said improvise). Keep at it you'll be better for all the hard work and headaches. And some people call it a hobby.lot. jimmy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
