Wet molding and Boning a holster

[jlopez]

This is my first post and I spent several hours trying to search for this topic with no real luck. However I found other information that i would not have thought about. I have made holsters in the past but have never hand boned one but always tooled. From what I gather Wet molding it with a water temp about 120 degrees and a drop of dish soap will help in "forming the leather". Presume just utilizing your fingers for the major out line around the trigger guard, shroud and slide. I noticed someone was using the end of a sharpie for other parts. This is a IWB for a Walther PPK My questions are as follows:

1. Do you dye the leather before or after molding and boning?

2. Where is the best place to start the boning. I have not figured out how to find the ejection port and other lines that would need to be boned.

3. When letting the holster dry to you leave your unloaded and wrapped gun in or do you take it out.

I read many post but these were the questions I still had. My apologies if I missed somewhere in another post.

Thank you,

Juan

[Jordan]

I dye after boning and it is throughly dry. I don't feel that water temp has much to do with pliability, room temp has worked for me. No best place to start other than to use your hands and fingers to get the general shape then use whatever smooth tool you want to define the features you want. Gently remove the pistol after you are satisfied with the shape etc and let it air dry. I have used a vacuum bag to get the general shape which saves some pain in my hands. There are some that will dip the dry holster in dye let dry and then dip in clear acrylic finish.

[Shorts]

1. Do you dye the leather before or after molding and boning?

I don't. I dye after the molded/boned holster is dry. But I use water-based dyes so, the nature of the beast, I dye after. Some makers dye before molding. The process depends on your preference and the type of materials (mainly dye) that you use.

2. Where is the best place to start the boning. I have not figured out how to find the ejection port and other lines that would need to be boned.

I press to find the curves of the gun. Once you become familiar with the grooves of a particular model gun, you get better at boning. It'll take a little practice to get the feel of the gun edges under the leather with your tool. I prefer using hot-warm water, I feel it makes the leather more pliable. Keep in mind, if the water is too hot to keep your hand in comfortably, it is too hot for the leather. Leather WILL scald and burn if the temp is too much. That will sap the oils from the leather and it will dry stiff and brittle.

3. When letting the holster dry to you leave your unloaded and wrapped gun in or do you take it out.

The gun/mold stays in the holster until the leather is dry on both sides and returned to its normal color. If you pull the gun from the holster and find there is no moisture on the gun, you're good. If you're using a real gun, wipe it down and oil it up.

Overall, don't be afraid to try various techniques and methods to find what you like and what works for you. Everyone has a method to their madness. There isn't ONE specific procedure that should be used

Edited December 11, 2008 by Shorts

[Tac]

What Shorts said.....

I usually dye after I mold and the leather is dry, but I have dyed first on a couple of holsters, using oil dye and I found that I did not get a good detail to the mold... so I stuck with "mold then dye".

As for where to start... I usually start around the trigger guard, as it is easiest to find. I run my boning tool around the front and back of the trigger guard on both sides of the leather to help give it a good friction fit and move on to the ejection port on autos or the cylinder of revolvers. As for "finding the ejection port"... if you press on the leather with your thumbs (using 7/8 or thinner leather), you should be able to feel most of the details of the surface of the gun, to include the ejection port, pretty easy. If you are using really thick leather it will be harder to find the details and you will get less detail in the wet mold process.

Drying the molded leather with the gun in the holster over night has worked best for me. After an evening drying at room temp, I take the gun/mold out of the holster and it's usually still damp inside the holster and I let it air out and continue drying with the gun/mold removed until it's completely dry before I move on in with dying the leather.

Don't be afraid to ask questions... thats how we all learn from one another.

-Tac

[Go2Tex]

I found that molding for high detail works best with cased leather about 5-6 oz, that is dry enough to hold the crease or shape, etc.

Dye is almost always applied after everything is done unless I want white stitching. I dye the inside or liner before assembly.

Those hard to find details can be located by pressing the gun into the grain side, marking the location of the feature. I even use the gun to make an impression on the grain side for details like the slide grooves on autos. Of course, those are merely for show since they are not deep enough to actually serve a purpose otherwise, and you can only do that for details that are semetrical for both sides.

Edited December 13, 2008 by Go2Tex

[jlopez]

Thank you all for you help.

I did as suggested I dyed after wet molding and letting it dry completely.

For the boning I used the back end of the sharpie for the ejection port and slide detail. I used the handle of my spacing tool for the trigger guard. Both of these were great suggestions I found in other threads. As for finding a place to start I started by pressing just around the slide. I found out that when boning if i made a mistake i was not hard to fix. I started lightly and as the impression was starting to appear I could press a little harder. The trigger guard was definately the easiest. I feel for my first time I got a good impression.

Now if I could just get the edges a little more perfect. With a single thickness of leather no problem. The power drill idea was great. But when it is a double thickness the burnishing wheel is just to small in width. I even bought the number 5 edger but it still is not enough to the get the edges to fit the slicking wheel. I checked at tandy and they do not sell different wheel widths.

Juan

[Shorts]

Good work on the holster. It came out nice.

Keep working on the edges, they'll come around as you domore of them. Instead of the drill, you might go back to a dowel/stick/antler until you get ahold of a custom bit (some folks make custom woodel burnishing dowels for the drill).

I use a well-worn dowel

[ArcherBen]

For my edges I simply put a 1/2" dowel in my drill press, wet the edges of the leather, and go to burnishing. I've found it to work really well and give very nice edges, IMHO, based on my limited experience. If you want to see an example of an edge finished this way, take a look at my post in the Critque my Work section.

[jlopez]

Shorts you rock man,

I remembered I had a oak dowel sitting around. I used my dremel and a bit to create the groove and the width i needed. Viola! I have a new burnishing tool. I can use it by hand and it will actually chuck in the drill. If I had not buggered up the edges trying to get what I wanted they would be even better. I included a picture of the best edge which is what I was going for. This holster is for my self as are all my holster I just wanted to step up the appearance a little better than I had been getting.

Again thank you all for your help especially you Shorts.

Juan

[Tac]

That holster turned out nice. You will get better at all aspects of this hobby/craft with experience. I like your burnishing tool idea. I might have to make one for myself and give it a try. Most of my holsters I currently make, I just edge with an edging tool, wet the edges and burnish/slick with a peice of canvas material taken from an old pair of pants (works best if you rub the canvas in one direction rather than back and forth).

-Tac

[Shorts]

Shorts you rock man,

I remembered I had a oak dowel sitting around. I used my dremel and a bit to create the groove and the width i needed. Viola! I have a new burnishing tool. I can use it by hand and it will actually chuck in the drill. If I had not buggered up the edges trying to get what I wanted they would be even better. I included a picture of the best edge which is what I was going for. This holster is for my self as are all my holster I just wanted to step up the appearance a little better than I had been getting.

Again thank you all for your help especially you Shorts.

Juan

That dowel looks exactly like my dowel!

You're very welcome.

[Lobo]

Well, we all have processes that work for us.

Personally, I dye prior to even sewing up the piece.

Wet-forming:

-I like warm water in the winter (keeps my hands warm while I work), but cold water in the summer (same reasoning). I don't see any difference at all in the finished product.

-Step 1 is to center the pistol in the holster (nothing worse than a fully-formed holster that shows the pistol to be out of line with the sewn edges or welts, if used).

-Step 2, I like to work around the outer edges of the pistol first, detailing those areas and establishing the finished shape (the leather will stretch considerably during the wet-forming) and pressing in all of my stitching.

-Step 3, I like to work the high areas next, rolling my tool over the slide sides of autos or cylinder of revolvers.

-Step 4, I detail the recessed areas (ejection port, cylinder flutes, etc) using a rounded tool.

-Step 5, I burnish my edges. For this I like to use a wooden thread spool with a bolt through the hole, chucked into my drill press. The little lips at top and bottom of the spool are perfect for working the edges. As others have noted, taking a round file and cutting a groove in the wood (spool or dowel) will provide a perfect means of dressing finished edges. I have several cut like that for various applications (thicknesses of finished edges).

Then I let the piece air-dry completely, and it is time for final finishing (dye touch-up, etc). I use a liberal application of neatsfoot oil compound on everything for long-term protection, then after the oil has set up overnight I apply Fiebings Bag Kote to seal the surfaces and leave a nice eggshell luster.

Attached are a few typical finished pieces from my shop.

[jlopez]

Lobos,

I like how you detailed this process. Many people here really explained "their process" well. This is the type of information that is always useful. Thank you for taking your time to share.

Juan

[MADMAX22]

Just wanted to bumb this thread as I am working on my second holster and its gonna have more boning in it then my first one. The info here has been very useful, wish I would of searched for it before I started.

[steelhawk]

Wet-forming:

-I like warm water in the winter (keeps my hands warm while I work), but cold water in the summer (same reasoning). I don't see any difference at all in the finished product.

Lobo, how wet is the leather during the forming? I am going to do more boning detail on my next holster. I plan to start it this weekend.

Edited October 23, 2009 by steelhawk

[Lobo]

Lobo, how wet is the leather during the forming? I am going to do more boning detail on my next holster. I plan to start it this weekend.

You may start forming at just about any degree of moisture in the leather. However, detailed forming and the boning process can best be done when the leather is relatively free of moisture. Wet leather becomes quite limp and resists any efforts to make it hold a shape or contour.

Assuming that your finished piece is completely dry, try dunking it in cool to luke-warm water for 3 to 5 seconds, then removing it. Insert your forming piece (handgun or dummy gun) and start to do the molding by hand. It is likely that you can do the majority of the work within a few minutes, then the piece will need to air-dry for about an hour or more before you can begin detailed boning.

If you completely soak the piece before beginning the process you might find it necessary to wait 12 to 24 hours before you can begin to form it to any level of detail.

Everything depends upon temperatures and humidity in your location. I live in southern Colorado, semi-arid environment, humidity seldom over 15%. If you are in a more humid environment you may need to allow longer drying times.

If your piece becomes too dry to continue the forming or boning work you can apply a dampened sponge to the surfaces, restoring a little moisture, and continue. It is usually best to do the detailed forming and boning work in stages, allowing some time between for the leather to shed excess moisture. Sometimes it is helpful to use a little heat to speed up the evaporation process, depending upon your schedule and needs.

Experimentation and repeated practice will give you a much better "feel" for this aspect of the work.

[GunNut]

I use the Tandy plastic wheel tool to do most of my edges. I even parched a second disc and used a round file to open it up then sanded it down while it spun in the drill press to get it smooth. I also use different sized of deer antler.

[Deanimator]

I use the Tandy plastic wheel tool to do most of my edges. I even parched a second disc and used a round file to open it up then sanded it down while it spun in the drill press to get it smooth. I also use different sized of deer antler.

I also recently bought one of those wheels. The nut holding it in place wants to come loose if you don't tighten it enough. It seems to work reasonably well.

Other than my fingers, I use the handles of my tools for boning in the gun. The butt of an edger or stitch groover works well for getting inside the trigger guard. For fine detail, I use the handle of my free-hand stitch groover. It's just the right size and shape. I also use a Sharpie.

[undie]

Thanks for all the information but i have a problem that is not mentioned here. I am using 9/10oz leather and making a holster for a S&W Shield 9mm. my problem is the leather has a tendancy to spring back and loosen up after i mold it. It looks good but its fits loose and will not hold the weight of the gun upside down. i always have to do it the second time to tighten it up. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks Richard

[camano ridge]

Do you have pictures, how close is your stitch line to the fire arm, what type of leather are you using - shoulder, belly, back? I use primarily shoulder or back, use the formula of one half the thickness of th gun plus one thickness of the leather to find my stitch line. I put my mold or gun in the holster when it is good and wet Should be pretty snug feeling putting the gun into the holster then using finger pressure start rubbing the outline of the gun until you can start to see some defenition then use boning tool ot other objects to refine the detail. Some people use heat to ste and harden the holster such as a small oven at 125 degrees or a drying box with a hair dryer blowing air into the box. I usually just set mine in the warmest place in the house to dry.

[undie]

Thanks Comano ridge: I think my stich line may be too far from the triger guard and the underside of the gun. I just remolded it. we'll see if it works now. I have stitched a couple that were so tight the gun wouldnt even fit in the holster to try to mold. i try to allow 1/2 the thickness plus a little extra but this time i went by a tutural on a holster site and it may have been to far out. I dont have pictures. thanks again "Undie"

[renegadelizard]

Thanks Comano ridge: I think my stich line may be too far from the triger guard and the underside of the gun. I just remolded it. we'll see if it works now. I have stitched a couple that were so tight the gun wouldnt even fit in the holster to try to mold. i try to allow 1/2 the thickness plus a little extra but this time i went by a tutural on a holster site and it may have been to far out. I dont have pictures. thanks again "Undie"

even with a loose stitchline, your leather should hold its shape..my guess is the quality of leather..try using some herman oak or wickett and craig...i have always had great results with these...also, you are making this holster for a s&w shield..its probably safe to assume that if it turns out good, you will be making more, as this is a pretty popular gun..so making a good pattern could be a real time and money saver...take the holster you just made, figure out where the stitch lines shouldhave been, correct your pattern and start over..in the long run, this will save you time and money...

[Mike 257]

I am also new at this and have a question, I put my holster in the oven to dry but it did not come out as hard as I would have liked it to. How do you get the holster to dry rock hard ?

[camano ridge]

Some times I use the oven some times I don't either way they usually come out pretty hard. Who are you getting your leather from and what part of the hide are you using?

[Mike 257]

I bought my first piece of leather at Tandy and it was a shoulder but now looking on the lable it says 3-5 0z tooling bellies . I only wanted to buy a cheap piece to practice with since this is my first time working with leather.