Wet molding and Boning a holster

[Shorts]

Shorts you rock man,

I remembered I had a oak dowel sitting around. I used my dremel and a bit to create the groove and the width i needed. Viola! I have a new burnishing tool. I can use it by hand and it will actually chuck in the drill. If I had not buggered up the edges trying to get what I wanted they would be even better. I included a picture of the best edge which is what I was going for. This holster is for my self as are all my holster I just wanted to step up the appearance a little better than I had been getting.

Again thank you all for your help especially you Shorts.

Juan

That dowel looks exactly like my dowel!

You're very welcome.

[Lobo]

Well, we all have processes that work for us.

Personally, I dye prior to even sewing up the piece.

Wet-forming:

-I like warm water in the winter (keeps my hands warm while I work), but cold water in the summer (same reasoning). I don't see any difference at all in the finished product.

-Step 1 is to center the pistol in the holster (nothing worse than a fully-formed holster that shows the pistol to be out of line with the sewn edges or welts, if used).

-Step 2, I like to work around the outer edges of the pistol first, detailing those areas and establishing the finished shape (the leather will stretch considerably during the wet-forming) and pressing in all of my stitching.

-Step 3, I like to work the high areas next, rolling my tool over the slide sides of autos or cylinder of revolvers.

-Step 4, I detail the recessed areas (ejection port, cylinder flutes, etc) using a rounded tool.

-Step 5, I burnish my edges. For this I like to use a wooden thread spool with a bolt through the hole, chucked into my drill press. The little lips at top and bottom of the spool are perfect for working the edges. As others have noted, taking a round file and cutting a groove in the wood (spool or dowel) will provide a perfect means of dressing finished edges. I have several cut like that for various applications (thicknesses of finished edges).

Then I let the piece air-dry completely, and it is time for final finishing (dye touch-up, etc). I use a liberal application of neatsfoot oil compound on everything for long-term protection, then after the oil has set up overnight I apply Fiebings Bag Kote to seal the surfaces and leave a nice eggshell luster.

Attached are a few typical finished pieces from my shop.

[jlopez]

Lobos,

I like how you detailed this process. Many people here really explained "their process" well. This is the type of information that is always useful. Thank you for taking your time to share.

Juan

[MADMAX22]

Just wanted to bumb this thread as I am working on my second holster and its gonna have more boning in it then my first one. The info here has been very useful, wish I would of searched for it before I started.

[steelhawk]

Wet-forming:

-I like warm water in the winter (keeps my hands warm while I work), but cold water in the summer (same reasoning). I don't see any difference at all in the finished product.

Lobo, how wet is the leather during the forming? I am going to do more boning detail on my next holster. I plan to start it this weekend.

Edited October 23, 2009 by steelhawk

[Lobo]

Lobo, how wet is the leather during the forming? I am going to do more boning detail on my next holster. I plan to start it this weekend.

You may start forming at just about any degree of moisture in the leather. However, detailed forming and the boning process can best be done when the leather is relatively free of moisture. Wet leather becomes quite limp and resists any efforts to make it hold a shape or contour.

Assuming that your finished piece is completely dry, try dunking it in cool to luke-warm water for 3 to 5 seconds, then removing it. Insert your forming piece (handgun or dummy gun) and start to do the molding by hand. It is likely that you can do the majority of the work within a few minutes, then the piece will need to air-dry for about an hour or more before you can begin detailed boning.

If you completely soak the piece before beginning the process you might find it necessary to wait 12 to 24 hours before you can begin to form it to any level of detail.

Everything depends upon temperatures and humidity in your location. I live in southern Colorado, semi-arid environment, humidity seldom over 15%. If you are in a more humid environment you may need to allow longer drying times.

If your piece becomes too dry to continue the forming or boning work you can apply a dampened sponge to the surfaces, restoring a little moisture, and continue. It is usually best to do the detailed forming and boning work in stages, allowing some time between for the leather to shed excess moisture. Sometimes it is helpful to use a little heat to speed up the evaporation process, depending upon your schedule and needs.

Experimentation and repeated practice will give you a much better "feel" for this aspect of the work.

[GunNut]

I use the Tandy plastic wheel tool to do most of my edges. I even parched a second disc and used a round file to open it up then sanded it down while it spun in the drill press to get it smooth. I also use different sized of deer antler.

[Deanimator]

I use the Tandy plastic wheel tool to do most of my edges. I even parched a second disc and used a round file to open it up then sanded it down while it spun in the drill press to get it smooth. I also use different sized of deer antler.

I also recently bought one of those wheels. The nut holding it in place wants to come loose if you don't tighten it enough. It seems to work reasonably well.

Other than my fingers, I use the handles of my tools for boning in the gun. The butt of an edger or stitch groover works well for getting inside the trigger guard. For fine detail, I use the handle of my free-hand stitch groover. It's just the right size and shape. I also use a Sharpie.

[undie]

Thanks for all the information but i have a problem that is not mentioned here. I am using 9/10oz leather and making a holster for a S&W Shield 9mm. my problem is the leather has a tendancy to spring back and loosen up after i mold it. It looks good but its fits loose and will not hold the weight of the gun upside down. i always have to do it the second time to tighten it up. Any help would be apreciated. Thanks Richard

[camano ridge]

Do you have pictures, how close is your stitch line to the fire arm, what type of leather are you using - shoulder, belly, back? I use primarily shoulder or back, use the formula of one half the thickness of th gun plus one thickness of the leather to find my stitch line. I put my mold or gun in the holster when it is good and wet Should be pretty snug feeling putting the gun into the holster then using finger pressure start rubbing the outline of the gun until you can start to see some defenition then use boning tool ot other objects to refine the detail. Some people use heat to ste and harden the holster such as a small oven at 125 degrees or a drying box with a hair dryer blowing air into the box. I usually just set mine in the warmest place in the house to dry.