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Posted

Fantastic work!! Personally I would have trimmed the leather on the handles much closer to the stitching but that's just me.

Thanks Craftsman. I was looking for some consistency in the stitch distance so I matched that remaining leather on the handle with that of the straps and pockets. Time will tell if it holds up to regular use.

Nicely Done !

Thanks!

  • Members
Posted

Gorgeous. What type of leather?

Venator, I wish I knew. It was the only piece at my local shop and it was the colour that really got me. Great weight and wonderful quality for a turned bag. I managed to get three nice cases out of the side, but I'll likely never come across another piece again. That's the wonderful thing about leather sometimes, the individuality of a piece, the marks and scars and colour. Once it's gone, it's gone!

  • Members
Posted (edited)

The metalwork on the handles is pretty nice too. Did you make those yourself?

I do all of the brass and wood work myself, including the handles and buckles.

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Edited by 5 Spice
  • Members
Posted

Seeing such masterful work like this from you and others on this site is a reality check for me. It shows me how far away from it I am.

About the hardware. What are you using to attach the brass and wood together with?

I am mainly a woodworker so using wood and brass really interests me.

Does brass work as easily as aluminum?

Thanks

Jim

  • Members
Posted

Seeing such masterful work like this from you and others on this site is a reality check for me. It shows me how far away from it I am.

About the hardware. What are you using to attach the brass and wood together with?

I am mainly a woodworker so using wood and brass really interests me.

Does brass work as easily as aluminum?

Thanks

Jim

I went through a lot of trial and error trying to marry woods with brass and aluminum. I find that brass is just as easy to work as aluminum and can use my wood working tools on it and treat it just like a hardwood. The only issue I have is during the working phase. Some of the sanding and polishing process creates a lot of heat. Since aluminum conducts heat so well, the bond has failed on me a few times.

I've found that CA (Cyanoacrylate) is the best adhesive for the job. I've been using hot stuff's Super "T" medium viscosity glue with the most success. It's like a thin syrup, fills the pores in the wood well and it thick enough to fill a small gap. It also holds up to the heat of polishing quite well. Just make sure you scuff your metal surface and clean your wood surface with some acetone before bonding.

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For most of the handles and buckles I make the adhesive is enough to hold everything together, but I will add a mechanical fastener when needed like the handle of this edge creaser.

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  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the tip on the glue. I never would have considered the heat issue.

One more thing, I know I can cut the metal with carbide saw blades but can you profile it with routers?

Thanks again.

  • Members
Posted

You can profile soft metal with a wood router bit, you just have to work slowly and remove very little material with each pass. Use them just like you would an end mill; make a pass and drop the bit 1/32 and make another pass, etc, etc. It would be best if you could get some cutting oil onto the surface, but it's going to make a mess so wear an apron and a face shield.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks again!

  • 7 years later...
  • Members
Posted

That's awesome!

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