Machine Stitching - Leather Tote

[Hutch]

I'm starting on my first project, a leather tote for my wife made from upholstery weight leather. I need advise on how to finish a seam. The pattern consists of 2 square panels machine sewn on 3 sides. Getting all 3 sides sewn together is easy enough, however, I'm at a loss as to how to achieve this type of seem. I cant figure out how to complete the 2 stitches on either side of the first seem with a machine.

[Ole South]

Google "French Seam Upholstery" Lots of youtubes on it

[Hutch]

Google "French Seam Upholstery" Lots of youtubes on it

My struggle is with stitching a french seam using a machine with three of the bag sides already stitched.

[Ole South]

This is a tote yes? Turn bag inside out and top stitch from the inside. or... Is your bobbin side stitch okay? If yes... sew from the inside on your last least visible seam and handstitch the bottom. Otherwise find a patcher and try and match stitch length.

Edited January 24, 2016 by Ole South

[Uwe]

The straight seams are easy enough it seems, it's the corners that get you. I'm having a hard time picturing how this seam would work on a 90 degree corner like your tote bag. If you're using a flatbed machine you'll be wrestling that material pretty well to make it lay flat as you move along the seams near the corner.

Cutting the bottom "corner" with a radius rather that a sharp 90 degree corner may be a feasible solution. Then you can sew the entire seam in one relatively smooth line with soft curves rather than sharp corners.

I did a test piece for a french seam recently. It's just a flat T-seam, but at least it shows the concept of this style seam:

[Uwe]

My sofa has french style seams and the arm rests almost look like a tote design with a gusset to give it some useful depth. All the corners are rounded to make the french seam practical:

[Kulafarmer]

The straight seams are easy enough it seems, it's the corners that get you. I'm having a hard time picturing how this seam would work on a 90 degree corner like your tote bag. If you're using a flatbed machine you'll be wrestling that material pretty well to make it lay flat as you move along the seams near the corner.

Cutting the bottom "corner" with a radius rather that a sharp 90 degree corner may be a feasible solution. Then you can sew the entire seam in one relatively smooth line with soft curves rather than sharp corners.

I did a test piece for a french seam recently. It's just a flat T-seam, but at least it shows the concept of this style seam:

On material, basting tape might be good to use im thinking,,,

On leather, maybe gluing it and sticking it flat,,,

Just curious,,,

Great vid by the way,,, Thanks

[TinkerTailor]

My struggle is with stitching a french seam using a machine with three of the bag sides already stitched.

Very difficult. That is why they make off the arm machines. You put the bag on the cylinder and sew down the side instead of around it. The feed of those machines is 90 degrees to normal.

You could try to sew the seam in 2 sections, middle outward and hide the thread knots on the inside.