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This is my first holster attempt, I used a JLS leather template for a glock 19 (which i don't even own! lol. so a big thanks goes to JLS Leather for the free patterns he offers.

the pics are of it still wet, i tried to see if it would fit my ruger... it doesnt. i have not put any finish on it yet either.

IMG_20160127_153304.jpg

IMG_20160127_151856_1.jpg

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Looking good

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Well, FWIW from a grumpy old guy -- First, I don't quite understand your overlay. If you were trying to show off the outline of your pistol, you would do better to shrink that chunk of leather down a bit, and make it a somewhat contrasting color or shade to show off the outline of the shooter and to force the eye to the overlay as a design element, not a portion of the actual retention function . You do need to take some care in your stitching. It looks a bit rough and uneven, and when you're done poking needles -- use an overstitch right on top of those stiches.. An awful lot of folks use the overstitch to mark their stitch length -- and that's good as far as that goes. BUT do run the tool right over your hard work with thread and pointy little thread holders after you're done Think about it -- the tool is called an OVER-stitch for a reason. It also can help to wipe a damp cloth over the stitching prior to running tthe tool. On the back side of the pouch you have a real sharp corner stitched in to (I believe) contain the back side of your shooter. One thing is almost universal in leather -- no sharp corners if at all possible. That goes for your pattern AND your stitch line. That line should follow the outline of the pistol and there ain't a sharp corner on the trigger guard. Think about it -- An auto pistol seats right on top of that stitch where it curls around the front of the trigger guard and up toward the frame. At least that's where it's supposed to seat IF the stitch is there. All that being said and you're likely to be thinking that I probably have earned the title of grumpy old man, BUT, over all, you did a pretty damned good job for your first go at it. Keep it up. Take it slow and pay attention to basics. Leather work ain't for those looking for instant gratification. Mike

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Katsass, no response :surrender:

It is difficult (for me :)) to form well intended criticism being concerned not to offend. However, I suppose one would think that the poster knows of this and should expect a critique rather than un-tempered criticism.

I know Katsass has a heart because even the grumpy old guy smoothes it over with the grumpy old guy reasoning. I think (with tongue in cheek) that we need a sticky that points out we mean well no matter what names we call the poster :bawling:

Then we could post the warning and tear into a newbie without concern. Well, maybe a little.

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not offended at all, actually most of what you pointed out, I already noticed. I learned about the sharp corners after I finished stitching, lol. I said to myself "I don't like the look of that"

I also don't have an overstitcher yet, im still working on limited tools. nor do I have a good sander to make edges more even. (also on the list)

also none of the guns I have fit the holster,( which is why that part looks like crap) it was just a practice project with cheap leather so I can see my mistakes before forking out the big bucks on top price leather.

also I don't like my burnished edges... I think I need a bigger edge beveler I think, aside from that, im not sure what else.

I expect constructive criticism. as in " here's what I noticed, try this next time to fix that"

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Here's what I noticed:

1. The belt holes do not have parallel sides. They are oval shaped, . . . should have straight and parallel sides.

2. The stitch lines are all in too far from the edges, . . . the leather will eventually lift up and look ugly.

3. The front piece as done is way too big. If it is for support, . . . only needs to be about a 1 1/4 inch band across the top, . . . if for accent, . . . then it needs to accent. This one looks more like an extra piece of leather didn't know what to do with it, . . . sewed it on the front.

But for a first holster, . . . looks a lot better than my first one.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I've never personally liked black thread on natural leather (though the other way around is 'ok'). Still, my mistake... seems NONE of my glock holsters fit the Rugers worth beans ;)

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Here's what I noticed:

1. The belt holes do not have parallel sides. They are oval shaped, . . . should have straight and parallel sides.

2. The stitch lines are all in too far from the edges, . . . the leather will eventually lift up and look ugly.

3. The front piece as done is way too big. If it is for support, . . . only needs to be about a 1 1/4 inch band across the top, . . . if for accent, . . . then it needs to accent. This one looks more like an extra piece of leather didn't know what to do with it, . . . sewed it on the front.

But for a first holster, . . . looks a lot better than my first one.

May God bless,

Dwight

1. yea the holes look like poop, thats why i started another thread asking how others do it

2. the stohlman book i have said to stitch in the thickness of the leather, so apparently that was maybe just a general starting point. idk

3. the front piece i cant be held responsible for,lol

i learn by doing. i can watch 1000 youtube videos but i have to actually do things a few times before it starts to click. that's why i bought low quality leather to practice on, because i know i'm gonna mess up a bit before i get it right.

but thanks for the input!

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Everybody here has a box or drawer filled with practice holsters they really don't want the world to see. You don't know what its going to look like until you try. I have a dozen or so, and have given a few as gifts, and I don't feel comfortable showing my attempts. But I can see almost every flaw in my holsters. Next one will always be better.

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I use a #3 edger on my holsters and it works well.

I use 5 per inch on my stitch holes.

The problem you are likely having with fit is the difference in thickness of the guns. I'm sure you notice where you could tighten up the stitch line around the trigger guard. If you also want to compensate for the thickness you could do that by moving the stitch line on the slide side in an appropriate amount. Then you will be started figuring out how to make your own patterns. Generally speaking you can trace the outline of the gun, measure the thickness, add half that measurement all the way around the gun, and that gets you pretty close to the stitch line you need. You could then transfer that stitch line onto that pattern and go for it to check.

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