Members Darren Brosowski Posted February 8, 2016 Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 It is frustrating for the sewer and the tech but 98 times out of 100 the needle or threading is the issue! 1/100 is something simple and stupid The other 1/100 leaves everyone wondering WTF is going on here. Quote
Members Cascabel Posted February 8, 2016 Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) Very often, I have seen descriptions of how to orient the needle describing that the "scarf" should be facing a certain direction. This can be confusing, and a great many novices are not sure what that means. A better and more easily understood description would be that the thread should enter the needle from the side of the needle with the long groove. This is a true description no matter which sewing machine you are using, be it industrial or domestic. This even holds true for the hand sewing awls. Edited February 8, 2016 by Cascabel Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted February 8, 2016 Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 Sounds like a tech may not have lovingly caressed one of the adjustment bolts with nearly enough torques and she slipped, Captain. Needed 2.5 more torques at least...... We're on it. No timing issues - Just needed to re-install the needle with the groove facing the right direction. In this case it was a bit twisted. Most of the time skipped stitches can be attributed to improper needle installation, a bur/bend on the needle or improper threading. Ron Good to see it is back sewing. Learning curves can be a monsterous hill to climb. I am surprised it even sewed the first six inches with the needle 180 degrees out... I made the guess that when the machine skipped after a few inches of good sewing, as explained, that a bolt on a thrust collar or something may have been snug but not tight and slipped once the machine is loaded up. I guess i guessed wrong. Plus it was an excuse to slip in a vague star trek reference... Ron, theoretically, Is there any way a needle could turn in the holder while sewing if it was not tight enough? Like could the thread tension do it, or perhaps a twisted point needle winds its way around with each hole? Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members Darren Brosowski Posted February 8, 2016 Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 I always tell customers to look at the thread guides as it gives a great indication of the direction you should thread the needle. The next point is to show them the hook and how it works with the needle. Between the two it explains where the scarf and the long groove in the needle should go. Very often, I have seen descriptions of how to orient the needle describing that the "scarf" should be facing a certain direction. This can be confusing, and a great many novices are not sure what that means. A better and more easily understood description would be that the thread should enter the needle from the side of the needle with the long groove. This is a true description no matter which sewing machine you are using, be it industrial or domestic. This even holds true for the hand sewing awls. Quote
Members pokerinot Posted February 8, 2016 Author Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 Thanks everyone who replied! I actually sew leather clothing for a living at my day job (aka not on this machine) so I promise I know how to thread/ load a needle. That being said, I was hoping that I had been putting my needles in wrong by 180° as that would be so obviously fixed (and that they had somehow missed that the two other times I brought the machine in with the needle...not likely). I just spoke to Techsew - they have fixed the problem (needle was slightly rotated?) so that wasn't really a problem in the end (except that I can't believe that I've put the needle in slightly off every single time since xmas....) and they have fixed the stitch length dial which was the final straw causing my weepy phone call to them on Friday. I'm excited to get working so hopefully the sewing machine gods smile upon me and all of you too! I will report back next week just to end this thread on a happy note (hopefully!!!) Also, just want to say that as I said I am very familiar with the operation of industrial sewing machines but obviously not the mechanics and inner workings and I really find it impressive that so many people on this forum can fix their own machines. I hope never to live far from a professional, myself! Quote
Members gottaknow Posted February 8, 2016 Members Report Posted February 8, 2016 We teach our operators what a scarf is, and that it will always face the hook, and the thread will always come out of the scarf. The reason I do that is because there are times when I'll use a 62x57 needle that actually has the long groove spiraling around the needle. Even though a 62x57 is a chainstitch needle for a Singer 300W, it has the same dimensions as a 135x16 and 135x17 and I'll use it on a lockstitch machine if the situation fits. It's also much easier to get a needle inserted straight if you look at the scarf and not the groove. On most two needle lockstitches, I'll have the operator rotate the scarf slightly towards the incoming hook since the hooks rotate in the opposite direction. This is especially true on the left needle where the hook can untwist the standard left twist thread whereas the right hook twists it tighter. Regards, Eric Quote
Members dikman Posted February 9, 2016 Members Report Posted February 9, 2016 TT, I thought I detected a subtle reference to a certain Mr. Scott (I hear there's a new movie due out soon, and also that there's a remake of the original series happening). Darren, based on my recent experiences, I would say your percentages are spot on. (It's amazing what a difference it makes when you thread the needle from the correct side ). Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members pokerinot Posted March 6, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2016 Hi everyone, I'm finally updating now that I've figured out how to add photos (one of the jacket almost done and one of the finished state with accessories)The machine has been okaaayyy... I'm not completely thrilled. I got through most of the jacket with no problems but on the FINAL seam -a topstitch that closed the collar to the rest it basically reverted to skippy style. I tried that seam a few times (making a perforated mess of the leather --luckily it is hidden when worn but UGH) and then just went to my work to close it up on my machine there, which sewed it without hesitation and very predictably. I also have to sit down with the machine and have a stern talking-to about my expectations re: zipper tape. It skipped stitches EVERY SINGLE TIME I sewed crossways on zipper tape.Since then, I have sewn two bags with no problems (crossed fingers) but I have two more jackets coming up soon and I really need to sort out it's hesitation to properly sew uneven and multiple layers! That is part of sewing! And zippers! Lastly, I am attaching a photo of the bobbin case... It seems weird that there's a thread crossing the outside of it and I can't seem to make it go away... I have a feeling this is part of the problem. I've tried loading the bobbin with the thread in "p" and "q" orientations. When I got the machine back from Techsew the bobbin thread was not doing this. Am I loading it wrong? Bonus: visual evidence of my frustration with skipped stitches highlighted! Quote
Members pokerinot Posted March 6, 2016 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2016 Here's a better picture of the bobbin -I pulled the thread a little to make it more visible Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted March 6, 2016 Moderator Report Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) I am not going to address any of the mechanical problems your machine may or may not have. Rather, I am going to pass on my own solutions to similar problems I encounter when I sew jackets and install zippers that have double sided leather tape. Increase the alternating height of the feet to the maximum before the bottom of the needlebar hits the top of the inside foot, at the height of the thick collar seams. Increase the pressure spring action of the outside presser foot. You need to force the spongy layers of garment leather down all the way. Switch to titanium coated system 135x16 needles. Titanium resists the glue on the tape clogging the eye. Use a size larger needle than you think is necessary. The larger eye lets the thread move a little easier through the goop. Increase the travel on the check spring to keep tension of the top thread until the needle completely pierces the material. Edited March 6, 2016 by Wizcrafts Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
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