Pancake Holster

[JRB]

I just picked up the Pro kit from Tandy tonight along w/needles, waxed thread and some cement. My first attempt will be a OWB pancake holster for a K frame revolver.

I've read until I'm almost cross eyed and still am not clear on a few things. First, when you cut out your front and back pattern do you leave some "play" where the gun will ride or do you lay the front & back flat together and glue & stitch. Unless I am not understanding right you're laying the 2 pieces flat, glue & stitch, then wet mold to fit the gun.

[Jordan]

Yes that is how most seem to be done. Unless you want more of the pistol to the outside of the holster which means the front panel is a bit wider than the back, at least that has been my experience. But I think there as many ways to do it as there are holsters out there! big help huh

[JRB]

Yes that is how most seem to be done. Unless you want more of the pistol to the outside of the holster which means the front panel is a bit wider than the back, at least that has been my experience. But I think there as many ways to do it as there are holsters out there! big help huh

So if I glue & stitch the 2 together flat against one another I will still have enough room to get the gun in and mold it?

I plan on having the cylinder and trigger guard inside.

Edited December 14, 2008 by JRB

[dbusarow]

So if I glue & stitch the 2 together flat against one another I will still have enough room to get the gun in and mold it?

I plan on having the cylinder and trigger guard inside.

The rule of thumb for an auto is to trace the outline of the gun and then add 1/2 the width of the gun to that.

Because the revolver's profile is not as simple as a semi-auto's it's not as straight forward but the idea is the same. There has to be enough leather between the stitch lines to wrap around 1/2 the gun.

Dan

[rickybobby]

laying the 2 pieces flat, glue & stitch, then wet mold to fit the gun.

That is how you do it. 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit.

This is how it went for me the first few times.....

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. When trying to get the gun pushed into the opening I realized I had the stitch lines to narrow. Put that one in a bag under the bench and started on another.

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. When trying to push the gun into the opening I realized I had the stitches to wide. In the bag it went! Started another.

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To wide opening

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To low cut on opening

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To close, cuts for belt

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To ugly but the gun fit!!

  I now have a "good size" box with my rejects in it but I keep them because they were my learning curve. Most of what I make now is workable and I have learned to avoid the mistakes I made in the past!!

Be sure and check for the tutorials by a couple of people "pinned" here on the forum. Search for "holster tutorial" and you will find them.

Good luck and post your results!!!

[BruceGibson]

I don't leave any "play." However, like Chuck Burrows and John Bianchi, I do start with manila file folders for pattern-making. File folders are a heck of a lot cheaper than leather, and you can get everything laid-out, and stitch lines pretty close by using them. Revolvers are tricky because of the diameter of the cylinder.

Once you've got something workable with the folders, you can then use them for your layouts on the leather. I've found that if I can get it right with a simple file folder, then I can translate that to leather and a usable product.

[JRB]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

I was thinking you started w/a slight "pocket" already, to where the 2 pieces were not touching. I don't think that's what you want though. Having the larger outline will give you the space needed to form around the gun.

Now to determine that spacing! I'm going to give the file folders a try.

Maybe I should start with an auto first instead of a revolver.

How do you get a sight channel in the holster so the front sight doesn't drag going in & out?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

Edited December 14, 2008 by JRB

[BruceGibson]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

I was thinking you started w/a slight "pocket" already, to where the 2 pieces were not touching. I don't think that's what you want though. Having the larger outline will give you the space needed to form around the gun.

Now to determine that spacing! I'm going to give the file folders a try.

Maybe I should start with an auto first instead of a revolver?!?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

I think you'll find the file folders real "user friendly." You can get your basic design down, then use your thumb and forefinger to "pinch" around the outline of the gun. This "pinch" will give you a good idea of your stitch line.

If starting with an automatic is an option, that's what I'd recommend. Keep in mind, I'm no expert, but given a choice, that's what I'd do. The autos tend to be more consistent along their length than a revolver. Again, it's the cylinder that requires additional space, and that can be a little tricky.

At the risk of being staked-out and set on fire, I'd compare autos and revolvers to Kate Hudson versus Dolly Parton. If you were making a swimsuit pattern for both, the Hudson pattern (the auto) would be the place to start. I'd have to work up to the Dolly pattern (the revolver).

[JRB]

At the risk of being staked-out and set on fire, I'd compare autos and revolvers to Kate Hudson versus Dolly Parton. If you were making a swimsuit pattern for both, the Hudson pattern (the auto) would be the place to start. I'd have to work up to the Dolly pattern (the revolver).

[rickybobby]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

How do you get a sight channel in the holster so the front sight doesn't drag going in & out?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

JRB,

Use a small wood dowel taped on top of the sight. It only needs to be about 3 inches long from the sight, sand the bottom flat to rest on the bbl. and taper it. When the gun is pulled from the holster there will be enough room that the sight will not drag.

Wood dowel, about 5/16th.s