Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 8, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted March 8, 2017 If teh front is "longer" (or wider, depending on how you view it) then it should "mold more of the firearm". But this is the trouble... the inside now has nowhere to go, and compresses. Like any other "path of least resistance" situation, the leather will "smoosh" into teh open space (spelled s i t e c h a n n e l) before it will compress fibers. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members JimTimber Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 "In order to form the best possible concealment contour and weapon fit, we need to know your waist size and position of carry." After all, you wouldn't buy a custom suit that was sold as S/M/L/XL. The tailor uses the actual dimensions the garment is made to fit. Something people also don't seem to pay much attention to is where on the waist the holster is going. A 4:30 carry is going to have a different radius (a compound radius at that), than someone who wears at 3 O'clock, even if they're the same size/shape otherwise. Carguy, the issue is that a 50/50 pancake holster is a crappy design and you need to allow for the dimensions of the weapon to fill the holster if you don't make the seam cause equal tension inside to outside. With 50/50's, you have the seam that follows the shape of the gun responsible for the tension, and then you crank the ears down to hold your pants up and the outside panel of the holster becomes lashed to the gun and it's too tight, while simultaneously folding the inside panel at the corners causing a pinch. It's super easy to make, and people seem to buy them (why, I don't know), so they remain popular. The unequal sided holster that looks like a pancake is a much better design. You'll need to place your stitches carefully as the belt tension will not impact retention nearly as much. Going back to the very first post; leather holsters need to be broken in. That's how they work. If you have a perfect draw the first time you use it, it's going to loosen up too quickly and will need to be shrunk at a later date (if that's even possible with your finishing techniques). Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 8, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted March 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, JimTimber said: folding the inside panel at the corners causing a pinch. Exactly my point. 3 minutes ago, JimTimber said: lster that looks like a pancake is a much better design. ...as the belt tension will not impact retention nearly as much This right here. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members carguy4471 Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 7 minutes ago, JLSleather said: the inside now has nowhere to go, and compresses This made the light bulb go off. So, if I'm picturing this in my head correctly.... If I use a wonderfully made symmetrical pattern provided by, say JLS leather via the web, and wanted an unequal sided holster I could add a wee bit to the outside, subtract a wee bit from the inside and then cut my leather. When glued, it should already bend a bit in a curve because of the difference. I could use the same stitch lines when measure from the outside edge as the add/subtract happened in between the stitch lines. Sound 'bout right? What would one use for a "wee bit"?? Quote
Members Mattsbagger Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 5 minutes ago, carguy4471 said: This made the light bulb go off. So, if I'm picturing this in my head correctly.... If I use a wonderfully made symmetrical pattern provided by, say JLS leather via the web, and wanted an unequal sided holster I could add a wee bit to the outside, subtract a wee bit from the inside and then cut my leather. When glued, it should already bend a bit in a curve because of the difference. I could use the same stitch lines when measure from the outside edge as the add/subtract happened in between the stitch lines. Sound 'bout right? What would one use for a "wee bit"?? I've done it with a 1/4 inch. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 8, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) That JLS guy aint that bright, I think! Original idea is, those patterns would work 'as is', but are intended to be a 'base line' for folks customizing their own. I can't remember how many times I've seen listings for "custom" holsters, made with that guy's patterns. TIP: If 100 of us use the same leather and the same pattern to make a holster for the same gun, it's no longer "custom"! BUT if a guy was to see that a pattern gave a stitch "allowance", then he/she could put that amount into the holster whereever they want it to "suit". I thought that long conversation about HOW they are made laid that out? Perhaps simpler version... say a guy making hisself a belt.. outa multiple pieces. If you measure 38 around, then a guy could do that with two 19". Or, a guy could use a 24 and a 14 ... etc... and still add up to something that fits snugly.. just change where the seam is. MUCH the same way, aguycould take a "50/50" pancake, cut out tehtop of the front "wing", and quickly turn it into a basic IWB by adding loops. Edited March 8, 2017 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members JimTimber Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 If you have the gun, you can make your own pattern loosely based on the pancake pattern you already have. 50/50's shrink front to back when the gun is inserted. That causes half the width to pull from the fore and half the aft of the two panels. When you make an unequal sided sandwich, you aren't pulling in from the front/back, but rather following around the outside of the gun. Quote
Members rickdroid Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 7 minutes ago, JimTimber said: the issue is that a 50/50 pancake holster is a crappy design OK, virgin here when it comes to making holsters so someone please educate me. What is a 50/50 pancake holster? This term is used often here but I am not able to find an explanation of what it is. While I think that I know what is being discussed it would sure be nice to really understand. Why is it a crappy design? Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted March 8, 2017 Contributing Member Report Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) 15 minutes ago, JLSleather said: MUCH the same way, aguycould take a "50/50" pancake, cut out tehtop of the front "wing", and quickly turn it into a basic IWB by adding loop AND, aguycould take that same basic "50/50" pancake, CUT IT on the front stitch line, and hold it up to a mirror, turning it into a basic "avenger" style holster for the same gun. http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/AvengerLayout.pdf Edited March 8, 2017 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members JimTimber Posted March 8, 2017 Members Report Posted March 8, 2017 50/50 pancake is the traditional "stitched right down the middle" holster. It's got mirror image halves that are sewn together and starts life flat as a pancake. It's a crappy design because of all the problems associated with it in use. It doesn't fit the same if you crank your belt down, or loosen your belt up. It's not elegant at all. And they're just easy to make and sell quick to make a buck. Quote
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