When Do I Use A Stitching Groover

[Mujician]

So I'm looking at making a wallet - I'm going to use an awl to make the stitching holes, but could you tell me when should I use a stitching groover and spacing wheel rather than a sticking chisel? Or does it depend on the final look I want? Many thanks

[AndersenLeather]

It only depends on what look you want. Choose what you like the most

[Tugadude]

Depends upon look for the most part. Stitching grooves are helpful in that they allow the thread to "sit down" so that it is more flush with the leather's surface. That helps prevent premature wear. The potential downside is that it tends to flatten the stitch. Those of us who love the slanted, zig-zaggy look of good saddle stitching, aren't happy about that. There is also the issue of grooving one side or both sides. Tricky to line up the backside groove at times.

Don't know if it is true, but I've read that grooves are sort of an American tendency whereas not grooving is European. I use grooves on some items and not on others depending on the look I'm going for mostly.

[Dwight]

Sometimes I groove, . . . sometimes I just dampen the leather, . . . set my pair of dividers, . . . outline the edges with the dividers, . . . then I have a tendency to have a much better looking stitch line regardless of which tool I used.

A stitch groover also takes off that all important top layer of leather, . . . and on really thin leather like a wallet, . . . or some purses, . . . it can seriously weaken the overall product.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Thor]

Depends upon look for the most part. Stitching grooves are helpful in that they allow the thread to "sit down" so that it is more flush with the leather's surface. That helps prevent premature wear. The potential downside is that it tends to flatten the stitch. Those of us who love the slanted, zig-zaggy look of good saddle stitching, aren't happy about that. There is also the issue of grooving one side or both sides. Tricky to line up the backside groove at times.

Don't know if it is true, but I've read that grooves are sort of an American tendency whereas not grooving is European. I use grooves on some items and not on others depending on the look I'm going for mostly.

Totally agree with the first paragraph. The second is a rumor.

Anyhow, it also depends on the type of leather you are going to use. For almost all types of chrome tanned leather I wouldn't groove. If at all, only veg tan leather would be grooved. For most wallets I would say that a stitching groove isn't needed at all. I collected over 1,000 different wallets here https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/wallets-portefeuille-geldb%C3%B6rse-billetera-%E8%B2%A1%E5%B8%83-%E9%92%B1%E5%8C%85-%D0%B1%D1%83%D0%BC/ and I hardly find a stitching groove on any of them.

[Tugadude]

Agree on thin wallets, a groove is likely to weaken the leather and isn't needed. If you are using thick enough leather to actually put in a substantial groove, I think the leather is too thick for that purpose. I suppose some like chunky wallets, but the trend is certainly towards thinner, not thicker.