Stropping Compounds

[Art]

I condition a new strop with Pecard's (Vaseline would probably work too) let it set for an hour and apply Formax Micro-Fine.

Back in the day (sorry I'm Old), they used animal fat as the binder in the bars of buffing compound. Somewhere along the line, that changed. The old formula went on a little greasy, and Brownell's Polish-O-Ray more so. If you can imagine losing a 2 lb bar of compound and searching the shop for it and having to order more, only to find out that the dog loved the things. Came in one day and he was pigging out on a bar. I called the vet and he said it might clean him out a bit, but the occasional bar might not hurt him too bad. So there was grease in the bar, which has now probably been replaced by some petroleum product. The Formax is pretty dense and is hard to get onto the strop, hense the Pecard's. After that first application, I pretty much haven't needed anything.

Art

[Colt W Knight]

I use automotive Rubbing compounds because I have big bottles on hand because I build guitars, and I use the compounds to buff out the lacquer. They come in progressively finer grits, and when rubbed on the flesh side of leather, make great stropping compounds. When I get the notion to sharpen a bunch of stuff, I will even do up 2-3 strops of varrying grit polishing compound. You can see yourself in the edge after I get done.

[rickdroid]

Heres a question for all,,

Do you wet your strop or buffing wheel/head/tip?

Curious if it would make the process and the compounds perform better?

Not talking soak it but wetting slightly with either water or an oil of some sort?

Heres a link i found that was interesting, thinking of doing something similar

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop_archive/power_strop.htm

Kulafarmer, I have never use water. Never thought of it.

I condition a new strop with Pecard's (Vaseline would probably work too) let it set for an hour and apply Formax Micro-Fine.

Back in the day (sorry I'm Old), they used animal fat as the binder in the bars of buffing compound. Somewhere along the line, that changed. The old formula went on a little greasy, and Brownell's Polish-O-Ray more so. If you can imagine losing a 2 lb bar of compound and searching the shop for it and having to order more, only to find out that the dog loved the things. Came in one day and he was pigging out on a bar. I called the vet and he said it might clean him out a bit, but the occasional bar might not hurt him too bad. So there was grease in the bar, which has now probably been replaced by some petroleum product. The Formax is pretty dense and is hard to get onto the strop, hense the Pecard's. After that first application, I pretty much haven't needed anything.

Art

Art what is the texture of the Formex Micro-Fine? Is it a hard dry block, or does it have a waxy quality? How hard is it to apply to the stop?

How much is enough? Do you just make a few lines on the strop, do you try to cover the surface or is the right amount somewhere in between?

Thanks

Rick

[Art]

The Micro-Fine is a pretty solid block, get a thin coat on the strop then strop to move it around. It will look blotchy for a while, then it will become black over time. Ditto for a wheel. I don't use any oil to prep a wheel though.

To answer a prior question, there are two things of importance with buffing compounds. One, is the grit hard enough to cut the metal? Two, what is the grit size. The smaller the grit, the finer the finish. For really technical shears, I use diamond all the way, diamond wheels and diamond paste or spray on leather buffs. A 45 micron wheel can be very aggressive, but doesn't leave a really smooth finish, however a 9 micron wheel leaves almost a mirror. A 3 and .5 micron diamond loaded leather wheel will actually bring up a burr where a chrome or aluminum oxide paste might not.

Art

[Art]

The Green Micro-Fine will pretty much cut and polish any steel used for a knife, and .5 will polish to a mirror. .5 micron is about equivalent to a 15,000 water stone for comparison.

Art

[judgebc]

Art,

I have Flexcut Gold for stropping my wood carving tools, do you know what grit size it might be?

Found Hand American 10 carat 0.25 and 0.5 micron diamond spray, heavy concentration liquid.

It was in my Wood Carving tool box, it is in liquid form.

I also have Herb's Yellowstone but have not used it yet.

I want to get some Formax Green Micro-Fine 0.5 micron.

My Big Red Swivel Knife sharpener just came in.

Can't wait to start testing, these different polishes.

[Art]

I did find Herb's Yellowstone to be the most aggressive of the bunch. I have never tried the flexcut. The sprays I use on ceramic and steel laps, the work on a strop too, or on a felt wheel. Micro Fine works on a felt wheel also. If I could only have one, it would be the Formax Green Micro Fine. You can also use rubber conveyor belt for a strop. If I remember, Weaver has that. I also have a couple of tubes of Tormek Stropping Compound, and it works ok too.

Art

[Martyn]

Like many subjects, this can be taken to sublime extremes. The reality however, is that while it makes *some* difference which type of grade of compound you get, it's really not worth making a science out of it, you wont just be splitting hairs, you'll be splitting atoms.

In the UK a compound called 'starkie blue' is popular and is really very good. But it's not magic, it's just a medium grade compound. Any medium grade compound will do the same job, even automotive polish, toothpaste etc. Just get a medium grade compouind of whatever type you want and use it.

Regarding diamond pastes, yes they are good, but again, dont kill yourself over it. Certainly dont spend a lot of money on fancy formulas claiming a billion carats per gram. I suggest getting one of the multipack trial samples of THK diamond paste on ebay. They are a Chinese brand and the samples vary from 5 micron, down to 0.25 micron. I've found the 1 micron to be a good 'fine' paste and a good compliment to medium grade starkie blue.

YMMV.

[judgebc]

I won’t buy red, white, yellow or blue rouge, how can you judge it’s content on color.

Everyone makes white, red yellow, blue, etc.

I will buy Formax Micro Fine-Green becausr they tell me the grit size.

Art thanks for the recommendation.

Yeah they could be lying but at least they put their name on it.

One’s mans Treasure is another Man’s Junk.

Yes, I once was a Rocket Scientist.

Martyn, rouge is cheap, I saw a Wayne Jeuschke Stamp I like, he wants $160.

Robert Beard wants you to wait a year, before delivery.

At least with Mr. Beard I have enough time to sell my blood every month.

Hope his prices don’t go up, lol?

Yeah, I’m enjoying this new hobby, but man it is sure expensive.

Thanks, Art and Martyn, and everyone else on this forum for your valuable information.

[Art]

There are two really important things about compounds, First, what it is made of, if it will cut what you are trying to polish, and Second, the grit size.

There is some consistency in colors from the larger manufacturers, JacksonLea, Caswell, Formax, Brownell's, EnKay, and Dico.

Art