How Do I Stitch Pockets Like This?

[stomper4x4]

Hi gang,

I can't wrap my head around this. So this shoulder bag has these small pouches sewn on the outside of it.

What I don't understand is how they were stitched on. How does one get their hand inside, let alone a needle and be able to see what you're doing?

Basically one side of the stitching, when attaching the side pieces of each pouch, is inside the pouch. It seems a near impossible task to get a hand in there and do a proper stitch all by feel.

Any ideas??

[Nuttish]

You'd have to show better pictures of the inside and outside, including pictures of the insides of the pockets. What is the temper of that leather? Can you easily turn the bag inside out? Is it lined? Is there a facing strip on the inside top? Pics.

[Tesla Ranger]

Pics would help. Just judging from the first pic I would assume I would stitch the exterior/visible seam first. Then I could fold the "rear" of the pocket into the seams for the main compartment. Alternatively, I could start the exterior stitch in the middle of the bottom seam and stitch in both directions so that the pocket closes as I stitch.

There's a few other ways this could probably be done depending on how the rest of the bag is assembled. We'd need more angles to pin down the exact technique used.

[stomper4x4]

Yeah I'd like better photos too. I've seen these kinds of small exterior pockets many times but I can't find interior pictures.

I emailed one guy who did one like this and he said he couldn't explain it over email....

And I've seen many styles, but it's getting that stitching on the inside, on that small of a pocket, that baffles me.

I'm hoping someone here has done this before :D

You'd have to show better pictures of the inside and outside, including pictures of the insides of the pockets. What is the temper of that leather? Can you easily turn the bag inside out? Is it lined? Is there a facing strip on the inside top? Pics.

I think it's likely a soft oil tanned, so turning it inside out would work most likely. But do you see what I mean? There is the main bag, then those small exterior pockets attached to that, and the seam for those pockets appear to be on the inside. And to saddle stitch that, for instance, you'd have to get your hand down on there which I can't imagine that being easy at all.

[Nuttish]

So I take it you didn't take that pic?

To turn your thinking inside out a little bit, there's a very very simple way to sew a pocket like that on if the material is soft. It's no different than construction the bag with seams inside the lining, which you just picked up on.

[TinkerTailor]

This is one of the only instances where i would use a speedy stitcher. It would actually be pretty easy. I would do the outside, visible seem proper saddle stitch and then attach the pockets to the bag panels using the speedy stitcher. With some long tweezers or hemostats you can reach down inside and catch the loop with the backside thread, forming a stitch. Not the prettiest, which is why you do it on the hidden stitches.

[Dwight]

I agree, . . . TinkerTailor has it nailed, . . . at least that is what I would do.

May God bless,

Dwight

[stomper4x4]

This is one of the only instances where i would use a speedy stitcher. It would actually be pretty easy. I would do the outside, visible seem proper saddle stitch and then attach the pockets to the bag panels using the speedy stitcher. With some long tweezers or hemostats you can reach down inside and catch the loop with the backside thread, forming a stitch. Not the prettiest, which is why you do it on the hidden stitches.

Ahh now that's a thought!

I do bags sometimes and I think this look is so much nicer than having the attachment "flaps" splayed outward, at least for some designs.

I'll have to give this a try.

[Ole South]

Just a guess not being able to see the inside of one of the pockets but notice it's: stitch, space, stitch... probably a running stitch pulled tight with a fid every twenty stitches or so. Just a guess but that's how I'd do it to get that look.

[Doc Reaper]

Is that not your basic buck stich? 

[nascenta]

You could use a shoe patcher (singer 29 or adler 30). They have a 360 rotatable foot dog so you can change direction without taking the bag off the machine. Check youtube

[EfrainBG]

If I were to saddle stitch something like this, I would do it with two separate threads (two pairs of needles), starting both in the center of the bottom edge of the pocket towards the corners. Once there, I would sew two or three of stitches at the time on each side. That way I would have space to put my hand into the pocket and see what I'm doing.

Just my 0.02, anyway.

Cheers!

[stomper4x4]

On 5/24/2016 at 3:20 PM, EfrainBG said:

If I were to saddle stitch something like this, I would do it with two separate threads (two pairs of needles), starting both in the center of the bottom edge of the pocket towards the corners. Once there, I would sew two or three of stitches at the time on each side. That way I would have space to put my hand into the pocket and see what I'm doing.

Just my 0.02, anyway.

Cheers!

I think you're on to something there!

[ConradPark]

EfrainBG is definetly on the right track. Also, I suspect, that if the small pocket is around 10-12cm in length, it shouldn't be too difficult to saddle stitch, even with only one thread starting 'normally' at one side. As long as you don't sew the large side panel together with the body until the smaller outer pockets are done first. While the main body is obviously sewn outside in, the side pockets are most likely done with all stitching holes made before sewing, then the pocket sides sewn onto the body side panel, and then the pocket 'outside' stitched on last, and because the leather seem very soft and as long as the main body haven't been sewn together yet, it really shouldn't be any trouble reaching anywhere with normal sized hands... Basically, it looks more impressive than it is.

 

[kobo]

FWIW, that bag looks like Donald Gambers work. He seems open to answering questions and has even put up tutorials on how he does some of his stuff. He hangs out on a few Facebook Leather groups; I think this one may be his:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1451504648434098/

 

K