Issues With Stitch Holes

[brettra]

Hello Folks,

Looking to pick at the knowledge base. I did up a long wallet from template and used my diamond hole chisel on the inside and then used the diamond shaped awl to push through the remaining layers. (Up to 4 in some areas). The awl pushed through easy enough but the end project obviously had ascetic issues due to the tear out on the leather. Awl was sharp and did not really bind up as I pressed it through the layers.

Leather was very low in the stitching horse. I wanted to ensure minimal movement.

I had concerns with the holes lining up on the various thicknesses so I was of the mindset, this was the way to best line up my holes.

Any suggestions to keep this from happening again? Thank you.

[Tugadude]

Here is one suggestion. Punch through one or two layers at a time, line them up over the remaining layers and push the diamong chisel through the existing holesand press hard enough to mark the leather. Then punch through the layer(s) just marked. Stack them up and stitch, or glue then stitch.

What diamond chisel are you using, number of prongs, size, etc.?

[brettra]

I don't have access to the chisel and number right now but a standard Tandy 4 prong chisel. I didn't show it in pictures as it was on the inside and used to guide the push through process. This was the outer side of my awl pushing.

I used the chisel on the inside and then pushed the awl through to the outside.

I think I understand what you mean by marking. I'm taking this that I should be assembling, cut mark, then back to chisel from any face side of leather. Sounds like a few assembly/dis-assemblies but should improve the look on the face sides of leather.

[grmnsplx]

Are you using Tandy's waterstain to colour your leather? That's what it looks like.
This stuff really stiffens your leather - the surface at least. It also doesn't penetrate. Since the leather is stiff, when you drive the chisel (or awl through), you can crack and tear the surface making your holes look messy. And since the stain doesn't penetrate, the uncoloured leather inside the hole is quite visible.

You could try softening the leather with some oil after staining. And maybe consider a different method of colouring your leather.

[Tugadude]

One thing about your awl, the blade is longer than I prefer. Many use even longer ones to good effect, but I find that a shorter one is easier to keep straight and level. Honestly, awl work is challenging. Keep your elbow out and make certain that the angle of the blade is exact each time. Takes time to get consistency.

[Tugadude]

Remember that the diamonds have a direction to them. If you punch the face of the outside it will not line up with the inside layer that was punched from the inside. So punch the outer piece from the inside or unfinished side.

[TinkerTailor]

I'm with grmnsplx, That tearing looks like it is leather related and not technique. Make up a test piece dyed the same way, however this time either use some neetsfoot oil or carnauba creme or something to bring back the leather suppleness after dying. Then stitch the same way you did and see if it improves.

Also, looking at the dye penetration at the stitch holes, it is not as deep as it could be. If you worked on your dying techniques to get deeper penetration, blemishes and tearing at the stitch holes won't show as bad, neither will scratches on the surface of the leather.

Edited March 3, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[Boriqua]

I have worked on all sorts of projects thick and thin and the only time I had blow outs like that was on two different Tandy hides. Both were 4-5 oz but I doubt that matters. It was just to dry. When I saw it happen on my first project all the pieces I cut from those hides after that I treated with a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let sit overnight and then worked with them as usual and had no further problems.

[brettra]

Are you using Tandy's waterstain to colour your leather? That's what it looks like.

This stuff really stiffens your leather - the surface at least. It also doesn't penetrate. Since the leather is stiff, when you drive the chisel (or awl through), you can crack and tear the surface making your holes look messy. And since the stain doesn't penetrate, the uncoloured leather inside the hole is quite visible.

You could try softening the leather with some oil after staining. And maybe consider a different method of colouring your leather.

I used Tandy's Antique Mahogany. Didn't think to oil afterwards so I appreciate that advise as well. Thank you.

Remember that the diamonds have a direction to them. If you punch the face of the outside it will not line up with the inside layer that was punched from the inside. So punch the outer piece from the inside or unfinished side.

Tugadude, Yes, this was the main reason for using the awl. Ran into this one already on a previous project lol.

[brettra]

I'm with grmnsplx, That tearing looks like it is leather related and not technique. Make up a test piece dyed the same way, however this time either use some neetsfoot oil or carnauba creme or something to bring back the leather suppleness after dying. Then stitch the same way you did and see if it improves.

Also, looking at the dye penetration at the stitch holes, it is not as deep as it could be. If you worked on your dying techniques to get deeper penetration, blemishes and tearing at the stitch holes won't show as bad, neither will scratches on the surface of the leather.

Thanks for this TinkerTailor, yes, I rushed this more than i should have. I placed down two applications of the antique dye but most likely did not work it in as well as I should have. I appreciate this, a very good reminder to me.... dye properly and stop rushing! Thanks

I have worked on all sorts of projects thick and thin and the only time I had blow outs like that was on two different Tandy hides. Both were 4-5 oz but I doubt that matters. It was just to dry. When I saw it happen on my first project all the pieces I cut from those hides after that I treated with a light coat of neatsfoot oil and let sit overnight and then worked with them as usual and had no further problems.

Thanks Boriqua, I 'm limited to Tandy as a provider due to being in the far North of Canada. Shipping costs are prohibitive by other leather providers so Tandy is my choice. I do have some neatsfoot in my kit so I obviously need to start making better use of it. Thanks for the advice.