How To "test Drive" A Used Industrial Machine.

[TZBrown]

gottaknow those machine run videos are great. Just amazing how fast they can pull fabric through and continue to humm

[Darren Brosowski]

Simple things to look at when test driving a machine?

The obvious signs of rust and needle bar wobble have been covered.

- Always work on the basis of putting a new servo motor on at some stage. If it is a black Singer motor then sooner rather than later for safety.

- pull the top tension apart and look at the condition of the discs and thread surface. Often they are scored by coarse threads and a new assembly is required.

- Assume that the bobbin case needs replacing.

- With an open frame shuttle take off the tension spring and check for scoring and rust. Light rust can be polished out but heavy marking means a new shuttle

- Tilt the machine head back and check for movement in the shuttle drive shaft. Excessive wear of the gears could lead to lots of movement.

- Check the play in the two shafts (front and back) for the feed dog. Excessive movement suggests poor servicing.

- Grab the balance wheel and see if there is any end-to-end movement. Once again, this tells you about service history.

None of these things say "DO NOT BUY" but give you a position to negotiate a reasonable price.

[nascenta]

Just to give some closure to this, i took my screwdriver, some leather to sew and a flashlight to check out this 31-47. It was 1-1/2 hours away. The seller didn't even have thread to demonstrate with! He did have some full bobbins though, so i put one up top and tried it out.The leather drive belt immediately broke. The seller really turned me off at that point. I offered him $200, He wanted $300 and wouldn't budge, so I left.

At any rate, this thread helped me to feel prepared. I'll be looking at a techsew 563 on Saturday. Hopefully that "test drive" will go better.

Thank you, everyone, for your input.

Edited March 16, 2016 by nascenta

[Wizcrafts]

Just to give some closure to this, i took my screwdriver, some leather to sew and a flashlight to check out this 31-47. It was 1-1/2 hours away. The seller didn't even have thread to demonstrate with! He did have some full bobbins though, so i put one up top and tried it out.The leather drive belt immediately broke. The seller really turned me off at that point. I offered him $200, He wanted $300 and wouldn't budge, so I left.

At any rate, this thread helped me to feel prepared. I'll be looking at a techsew 563 on Saturday. Hopefully that "test drive" will go better.

Thank you, everyone, for your input.

You probably saved yourself a hundred dollars or more in repairs or replacement parts. As for the Techsew 563, I can't find any mention of it on the interwebs, or the Techsew website. Are you sure about the make and model?

[Darren Brosowski]

There are thousands of machines out there any the 31 was probably only worth $100 to you as a leather belt suggests a very old motor.

[nascenta]

Sorry, wizcraft. It is a techsew ck-563.

I'm going to try to post a picture of it.

[Tejas]

Here is a link to a very good quality pdf of the Juki 563 manual.

http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

[nascenta]

Thank you for the link, Tejas.

Edited March 17, 2016 by nascenta

[Wizcrafts]

That machine is a rebranded Chikon CK-563, a clone, made in Taiwan

[nascenta]

I started this thread to find out how to check out a used machine. Let me tell you what happened. I went to an auction on Saturday of the assets of a hunter's gear company that went bankrupt. They had over a dozen machines, sergers, embroidery machines, bar tacking machines, flat bed walking foot and presser foot machines and one cylinder arm Sunstar machine (km-380bl) which I thought was just what I was looking for. I opened up the bobbin case and the cover where the needle bar resides, checked for play in the flywheel. Everything was smooth and clean. I decided that i would buy it. Happily, one of the bidders was very friendly (as most sewers seem to be) and she introduced me to her sewing machine technician who was also there. He gave it the once over too. He said that it was a better machine than the techsew ck-563 that I had been considering. He also said not to pay over $800 cnd for it. I ended up getting it for $500. I've cleaned and oiled it and it is wonderful. Surprisingly, the clutch motor allows me to go very slowly so i won't need a servo until it dies.

Thank you everyone for your posts. I hope that this thread becomes a useful resource for others trying to buy good used machines.

Edited March 23, 2016 by nascenta

[Wizcrafts]

If you're gonna wait for the clutch motor to burn up before buying a servo, you better be prepared to live a long, long time. I have a clutch motor from the 1930s or 40s that still works.

[dikman]

Yep. My first machine, a Singer, came with a Singer clutch motor. Judging by the wiring, switch and overall look of it it is OLD! As long as the insulation doesn't break down I reckon it will keep working for a long time yet.

[marsiede]

How is the sunstar 380 performing? I am looking into buying one from nearby.

[Yetibelle]

Ok - Here is my checklist. I typically buy from people who have NO IDEA what they are selling or how to use it so I wont rely on them to tell me if it is working or complete. Sorry grandma the kids only got $50. for your 114w103 because they didn't take the time to look it up. 

1. Look-up and bring picture examples of the machine your buying; so you can stare and compare the parts.  The PDF parts manual helps.
2. Search eBay and see how hard parts are to get for that model and the most expensive parts for that model (make sure they aren't missing or they may have extras).
3. Look for cracks or damage in the cast-iron - this is a deal breaker unless you know how to smelt-patch-weld cast iron. - I made that last part up.
4. Look under the machine, sure they are heavy but tilt it back crawl under (bring flashlight). all the parts under there?
5. Bring tools, flashlight, plastic cling wrap, rubber gloves (mouse poop) and a bucket to toss all the loose parts in. 

Find and download the pdf manual and parts list.  Then go out to eBay and see if there is that same model for sale, take screen captures of the different angels of the machine that they have in the listing and print them out so you can compare them with the sale machine.  It's a great puzzle, sometimes you will see a machine run and work in person, yet it is missing a few parts and is being rigged with a coat hanger and vise grips.  I bring a flashlight, plastic cling wrap, tools, rubber gloves and a bucket.  Once you decided you want to buy it take pictures of the machine from all angles then wrap it up in cling wrap, this way you wont loose parts and it will protect you from the crud (mouse poop).  Even if you can load it on a truck standing, its a good ideal to wrap it so the little parts stay put.  Plus sometimes the crud is actually a part you really need and you throw it away thinking its crud. 

Lets be clear,  if all your looking for is a deal, you will be spending numerous hours getting the machine to work "once you think you have got the machine to work".  You will find that you are no longer a Leather-Crafter, you are now an Antique Sewing Machine hobbyist (me).  So spend a little more money and look for a machine that is in good shape, runs and just needs a servo motor, better yet find one with a servo motor already.  Or just save up and get the Cowboy CB4500.  You will then be back in the leather crafting business and out of the Sewing Machine restoration business.

Or buy one like this and complete the puzzle. (really how do they get this dirty?)