My tips for a "machine" look with Saddle Stitch

[DonorLeather]

Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better....

As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots.

 EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right.

When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work.

The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.

 

[DonorLeather]

https://youtu.be/pnh6Br8dFOY

 

[soccerdad]

Donor, thanks for the look at your technique. Readers interested in further tutorials could check out Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on YouTube. Those who prefer paper could look up Al Stohlman's "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather." 

[Martyn]

1 hour ago, DonorLeather said:

Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched.

Why would you want to do that? Surely one of the main benefits of saddle stitching is the beautiful pattern it makes? Also, if you align your stitches in a straight line, you loose the strength advantage of an angled saddle stitch. I'm not even sure you would call it a saddle stitch any more, just a double running stitch. There is artistry and beauty is a well done saddle stitch, flattening it, sterilises it IMO. I try and avoid flattening it, I dont use grovers and even scratch my stitch line ever-so-lightly so it wont mess with the lay of the stitch. I've spent hours and hours practising so I get a nice angle front and back. If I'd got a flat stitch, I'd consider the piece scrapped - or I'd unpick and re-stitch if it could be salvaged. Why would you want to hide the fact that it's been done by hand? I'm baffled.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Martyn

[Tugadude]

Kind of a touchy subject here.  I will give the OP the benefit of doubt and suggest that what was meant my machine was "regular" or "consistent."  Many folks don't see the subtle, identifiable characteristics of a true saddle stitch.  To that end I agree with Martyn that what is presented doesn't qualify.  Not forming a cross with the needles and actually setting a needle down are dead giveaways.  I admire the intent, but agree that there are better sources.

I don't consider myself expert, but I learn from those who are and aspire to one day reflect a level of craftsmanship.

Last thing I will say and don't mean any offense is that at least the method described results in a somewhat consistent result.  But to me, it is far from the ideal.  Yes, perhaps my ideal, but it is shared by others who appreciate tradition and try to maintain it.

[Martyn]

Tugadude, did you watch the video? The OP seems to be taking great pains to lay the stitch as flat as possible.

[Troy I]

Why are you guys giving the OP a hard time...if he wants to make his saddle stitch look like it is done with a sewing machine...fine...it is his style and what he likes.

I personally like my saddle stitch look more traditional or in the classic style...but each to his own.

DonorLeather. Thanks for sharing your style of a saddle stitch.

[Tugadude]

I don't think we are giving him a hard time.  You are taking it to a personal level.  What I did is actually give him the benefit of doubt.  What we are doing is expressing our opinion.  We have that right as do you.  It is kind of like the fact that many schools don't teach cursive handwriting anymore.  You can say, so what, who writes anyways now that keyboards are so prevalent?  To me, it matters and I lament the loss.  What if a new crop of stitchers adopt the method shown?  That, to me would be be sad.

[Tugadude]

Troy I, I went back and read my first post and have to say it was a lot more positive than you portray.  YMMV.

[Martyn]

Troy, I hear what you are saying, but there is more to it than just different ways of doing this or that. Traditional hand saddle stitching is a specific thing and a dying art. If it isn't down to us to keep the tradition alive, then who?

 

Quote

DonorLeather. Thanks for sharing your style of a saddle stitch.

 

I get that you are trying to be inclusive and I definitely support the sentiment, but if you're not careful, a desire to be equitable can end up diluting the skill base. What Donor Leather is doing is perfectly valid, but it isn't saddle stitching and I cant say that it is no matter how much I might want to avoid causing offence.

Edited March 27, 2016 by Martyn