Singer treadle 27 sewing perfect, tiny stitches in upholstery leather! Yippy!

[horselady21]

In my quest to upgrade my status from hand sewer to machine goddess, I picked up a model 27 treacle last week for $90 (also got a 31-15 but still waiting for belt). I got it cleaned up and working and it makes the tiniest, most beautiful stitches I could have ever hoped for! I will try to post photos. (Photo not real clear but trust me,the stitches are incredible!. This is my little practice piece. Will post photo of more when I sew a real piece.). I am going to be making hip belts and small bags and purses, wallets and such, nothing heavy so these machines should be fine. So happy!

[Wizcrafts]

I also have a Singer 27 and it gives me 5 stitches per inch. If you can't get that spacing, either the feed dog height is too low, the stitch length lever isn't going all the way down, or the upholstery leather is fighting against the feed, reducing the stitch length. It that's the case, you can hold it up in front of you as you feed it to the machine. You don't want the stitches so close that they filigree the leather!

 

Also, if your machine takes modern presser feet, you can buy a Teflon foot that will glide over the top of the leather.

[leecopp]

The 31-15 works great on a treadle but you need a wide treadle like an white sit straight or singer industrial.

 

Lee

[horselady21]

Wow, I thought I was trying to give the impression that I was happy with the stitches! I don't want to change anything! I did order a teflon foot for when I sew a stickier leather (the goat skin is pretty slick and glides nice) but it works beautifully. I even got the long bobbin winder working properly, which took a complete disassembly and some adjusting, watching a video on youtube of how it is supposed to work. IT is quite something. This morning I tried 3 layers of the goatskin and it went through but I had to feed it by hand for the most part, so now I know it's limit.

The 31-15 is on a regular industrial table with a motor..a clutch one but will change to a servo eventually. That I will use for heavier stuff.

I will post pics later today of the pieces I finished yesterday. Thanks for the responses.

[Wizcrafts]

The 31-15 is a garment and tailoring machine, capable of sewing leather chaps and vests. It will need a roller foot conversion to feed properly. The conversion kit includes a 1" roller, a heavy duty single row feed dog and matching throat plate. The machine should be able to sew with #69 and possibly #92 thread, depending on its age and type of shuttle. I recommend titanium coated needles if you use double sided basting tape. You'll want to get #18, 19 and 20 needles, in system DBx1 / 16x257 / 1738

[horselady21]

Thanks for the info on the 31-15. I will order the conversion kit once I get it all together and working.

The needle/thread thing is a world all it's own, I'm finding out! I made a chart and posted it on my wall above the machines, but it would be nice if there was a chart showing whjat needle and thread combo should be best used with what leather,etc. And how to read the needle sizes, types,etc. Who knew there was so much to know! The machine is a 1935, I believe.

I am using a #69 with the old treadle 27. It seems to like it fine. Once I get the other machine going, I am going to restore the head on it and refinish the cabinet.

[Wizcrafts]

You have to consider the thickness of the material when choosing the thread combination. The goal is to place the lockstitch knots deep into the material so they don't show. In my experience, if your leather is very thin, #69 may be the maximum you can use and still bury the knots. For this, use a #18 needle for medium temper leather, or, for a tighter knot in soft leather, use a #16. You may have to ramp it up to a #19 for harder leather.

When the thickness is over 4 or 5 ounces, #92 thread can be used and still bury the knots. It is 50% stronger than #69 thread. But, you'll need either a #19 or 20 needle, depending on the temper of the leather.

[horselady21]

Thank you again! You are a world of knowledge and I'm sure I will be picking your brain in weeks to come. 

I got the stitches lengthened...I had screwed the adjustment knob out (and in and out while cleaning and oiling) and left it in the teeny tiny stitch position, which were very pretty compared to my hand sewn monster stitches, but I got them back to a very nice spacing now, photo attached. Yes, in case it doesn't show a time, I get up at 3 am to start my leather stuff before my day job. Hopefully, someday, I can eliminate the day job and do leather all day long!

[horselady21]

One thing I have been noticing, and maybe I should start a new topic on this, is that when I back stitch to lock the stitch at the start of a run, the bobbin thread bunches up and forms a little rat's nest and I can feel it binding when I'm turning the wheel backwards ever so slowly. I only go a revolution or two. I've tried adjusting the bobbin case itself but the stitching itself seems so nice that I don't think it's that. I've taken to either just straight stitching then going back over and doing a couple of hand stitches or machine stitches over the first and last few of the run. No big deal since I am only making things for myself right now but once I am making to sell, then I have to do it right. Any ideas? By then I will have the 31-15 going but no use having a machine that won't do everything 100% in my opinion!

[Northmount]

You can't back stitch by turning the wheel backwards.  The hook, bobbin, shuttle are designed to pick up the loop only in one direction.  On a machine with no reverse, turn your article 180 degrees so you can stitch forward.

Tom

 

[horselady21]

Oh.

Duh.

Ok. Now I feel really, really stupid.

Omg.

[Wizcrafts]

HorseLady21;

This machine has what I call Poor Man's Reverse. You either spin the work 180 degrees, or lift the foot with the needle up and pull the work back a couple stitches and sew over them, or sew all the way around and stitch over the starting stitches.

Since you are using a Singer 27, you may not have a tension release with the foot lifted (mine doesn't). In this case, if you lift the foot and want to pull the material towards you to over-tack, pull some thread out of the top tension disks by hand. You can pull it anywhere between the tension disks and the take-up lever. Otherwise, you may bend or break the needle.

[horselady21]

How about renaming it Dumb Lady's Reverse. Geez. I guess when you spend 50 years on a modern machine flipping a reverse switch, you never imagine that such a thing never existed! Thanks for the info. I will just turn it 180.

I did something interesting with the belt on it that I will start a new post on.

[Northmount]

On 2016-04-27 at 9:23 AM, horselady21 said:

Oh.

Duh.

Ok. Now I feel really, really stupid.

Omg.

We all get caught on the wrong tack sooner or later.  Depends on where our thoughts are at the time.

Tom

[horselady21]

On 4/25/2016 at 11:12 AM, Wizcrafts said:

The 31-15 is a garment and tailoring machine, capable of sewing leather chaps and vests. It will need a roller foot conversion to feed properly. The conversion kit includes a 1" roller, a heavy duty single row feed dog and matching throat plate. The machine should be able to sew with #69 and possibly #92 thread, depending on its age and type of shuttle. I recommend titanium coated needles if you use double sided basting tape. You'll want to get #18, 19 and 20 needles, in system DBx1 / 16x257 / 1738

Any idea where I can get this conversion kit and/or the part #? Thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

6 hours ago, horselady21 said:

Any idea where I can get this conversion kit and/or the part #? Thanks!

Here's one source for a roller foot conversion kit. Most industrial sewing machine dealers I know carry these.