Tandy rapid rivets either bending or not holding. Help!

[Mike516]

I would like to note, I don't use rivets or snaps with my buckle collars and I won't use them if I start making leashes either. I'm more comfortable using chicago screws and a dab of locktite for those. I have stainless steel, but I've come to like the nickle plated solid brass ones more.

[Boriqua]

2 minutes ago, Mike516 said:

I would like to note, I don't use rivets or snaps with my buckle collars and I won't use them if I start making leashes either. I'm more comfortable using chicago screws and a dab of locktite for those. I have stainless steel, but I've come to like the nickle plated solid brass ones more.

You have a point Mike. I made a collar for one of my dogs and made it where the d ring was on the back opposite the buckle so I wouldnt have to look for the D when I was taking my dog out. I had used 4 rapid rivets to secure it to the collar and when my 65lb dog caught sight of a damn rabbit while I wasnt paying attention she jerked and the D came right off. I know there is some mathematical formula but 65lb dog taking off at full speed hits the end of a 6 foot lead with a 200lb weight on the other end that is static equals alot of force on a wee bit of brass.

She was so surprised she was loose she just stopped in her tracks but I then attached it with copper rivets and burs and never had a problem. I made a few others for friends and used the rivets and burs there too. Chicago screws would certainly work but anything that is going to be jerked .. I would stay away from rapid rivets.

When I looked it hadnt separated the rivet, the set held, it actually pulled the soft flat brass that is the bottom portion of a rapid rivet through the leather. It just looked like a bugle.

I dont make dog collars for sale but with people suing over every damn stupid thing in the world, whether its their fault or not, I wouldn’t take the chance on rapid rivets for dog collars that I sell for profit. Dog breaks loose and heads under a car and you might get a very hostile phone call.

Alex

[Mike516]

2 minutes ago, Boriqua said:

You have a point Mike. I made a collar for one of my dogs and made it where the d ring was on the back opposite the buckle so I wouldnt have to look for the D when I was taking my dog out. I had used 4 rapid rivets to secure it to the collar and when my 65lb dog caught sight of a damn rabbit while I wasnt paying attention she jerked and the D came right off. I know there is some mathematical formula but 65lb dog taking off at full speed hits the end of a 6 foot lead with a 200lb weight on the other end that is static equals alot of force on a wee bit of brass.

She was so surprised she was loose she just stopped in her tracks but I then attached it with copper rivets and burs and never had a problem. I made a few others for friends and used the rivets and burs there too. Chicago screws would certainly work but anything that is going to be jerked .. I would stay away from rapid rivets.

When I looked it hadnt separated the rivet, the set held, it actually pulled the soft flat brass that is the bottom portion of a rapid rivet through the leather. It just looked like a bugle.

I dont make dog collars for sale but with people suing over every damn stupid thing in the world, whether its their fault or not, I wouldn’t take the chance on rapid rivets for dog collars that I sell for profit. Dog breaks loose and heads under a car and you might get a very hostile phone call.

Alex

Yes, that's right, I do make them with copper as well. Those are very strong, just not everyone's taste. I like the rustic look of them, but not everyone does.

[TomG]

Easy fix.  Put the collar through the D-ring and secure in place with a 1-1/2" long "tongue" using anything from glue to stove bolts. Doesn't matter if it breaks.  It it breaks the collar in half, the animal has no business being on a leash!!!

[nevadabob]

Tried the glue thing...some held, some didn't...and that's when I applied some force to try and get it to pop open. My biggest fear is what Boriqua mentioned, that the dog would do a "bolt & run" maneuver and it would come apart. Don't want any legal challenges.

Today I'll go to the Tandy store and have them do a one-on-one with me, see if they can get it to hold properly. I'm still awaiting my SLC double cap order, should arrive next week. And I may pick up a package of Chicago screws while at Tandy today. Anyways, I'm working on several options and do appreciate the comments.

[TomG]

Still.. the main point is that with a dog collar, the ring should have the leather going through it and then folded back around to hold it in place.  Or a keeper strap riveted in place. Just like the keeper loop on a belt.

And never, ever, ever put an economy, non-welded D-ring on a collar.  

Later 

[Mike516]

1 hour ago, TomG said:

Still.. the main point is that with a dog collar, the ring should have the leather going through it and then folded back around to hold it in place.  Or a keeper strap riveted in place. Just like the keeper loop on a belt.

And never, ever, ever put an economy, non-welded D-ring on a collar.  

Later 

Right. There are dogs that are so big and strong that no matter what you do you may not be able to keep him from breaking a welded D ring or tearing the leather or breaking a rivet etc. There are always going to be those little imperfections in that one piece out of a million hardware or strap. I make every effort to make every collar as strong as possible. That doesn't mean I don't worry about a collar failing.

[nevadabob]

Went to the Tandy store, the nice lady showed me her setting technique, and of course, it came out perfectly. I did leave the store with a bag of Chicago screws. From a product liability standpoint I'm thinking using the screws is the best and strongest option. I just don't want a powerful dog somehow popping loose a rivet and causing harm.

[sos]

Chicago screws are great for strength, I do some suspension pieces with metal washers on both sides and then a leather setting to cover the metal when I know it will get a lot of wear ... make sure you use a bit of the locktite stuff ... there's different strengths, https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0/182-2755863-8864510?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

[nevadabob]

I went ahead and made 5 leashes using the Tandy Chicago screws. I used contact cement as a Locktite substitute. I did receive my SLC double cap rapid rivet order. They look beefier than the Tandy rapid rivets I was using. Haven't tried them yet. I did place an order on ebay for the House of Paws Chicago screws. Received 50 for $15 with free shipping. Seems like the best price available. Again thank you to all who responded to my 911 plea! Very valuable info for a newbie like me.

Edited June 2, 2016 by nevadabob