sos
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Everything posted by sos
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That handle....drools...the colors are excellent on the whole thing, great choices!
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Hopefully Barry, you are doing better - I had to stop sky diving after my 7th broken rib. It is an incredible rush - the friendships & interesting people you meet doing it create a culture all of it's own too. It's addictive. I'm looking forward to buying some of your tools at some point, perhaps I should now before they become rare
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Simple Wallet in Tan Swift Leather
sos replied to Krittner's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Lots of new guys from the reddit over here I see -
Tandy rapid rivets either bending or not holding. Help!
sos replied to nevadabob's topic in How Do I Do That?
Chicago screws are great for strength, I do some suspension pieces with metal washers on both sides and then a leather setting to cover the metal when I know it will get a lot of wear ... make sure you use a bit of the locktite stuff ... there's different strengths, https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0/182-2755863-8864510?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 -
It seems like a great machine - the guy over at Toledo told me the basic difference was the arm length & 3500/4500/5500 were pretty much the same machine otherwise.
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That's pretty awesome! Copper or rosegold hardware? The black hatch work is very striking!
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I think the size looks great - but yes, I have the 9 spi & they create very nice layouts!
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Yea - I noted the 3500 is one step up from the boss in terms of all the specs. Honestly - I'm torn - it feels like 1/2" is enough for me & shoes ... and the servo motor is well worth it - but also, I'm not a great sewer of cloth to begin with ... I was told if you're going grab a beginner machine & have a pre-existing business - just get the 3500 cowboy & skip the entry level stuff. I've done calls to 7 vendors so far & read here every month in addition to a few other places. I'm still learning to use the pricking irons oldschool style. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3500.html
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Aye, that's really awesome!
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I heard these things used to sell for 1,000 or below retail new. Some of the threads here actually back that up. As for the tandy's - I can verify, ~1,500 & 1,300 with elite was what tandy employee told me for them too. I was in last Saturday. It's a tough sale for me knowing I'm paying $300 extra for a unit. Then toss in that $1,500 is very close to the $1,700 for Cowboy 3200 or a step up for $2,100 on the Cowboy 3500 which I'm told is the specs & setup leather workers would want after their first year.
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Awesome work - do you bevel your leather edges for the handle leather? If so how? Love the video's too - I think I had watched some awhile back!
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That 1st wallet looks amazing - good stitches too! What thread size & size of prick/chisel in mm are you pairing together?
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Not the answer you want probably - but every hide is different Seriously. Different amounts of oils, dyes, time in barrel etc...the bridle leather conditioned / loaded with after a deeper dying process than normal. The whole process is done to to quality hides. The leather is supposed to be more supple than other types. One of the reasons you pay that much is that it's supposed to be comfortable next to the skin of the horse. There is a huge variation in pricing by which tannery you goto & they are definitely not all even in quality. Call the hidehouse guys up & chat them up - then ask about samples or samplepacks. They are pretty awesome.
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leatherman Pouch
sos replied to Peter Darby's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Good stuff, final question - chisels or pricking irons? -
leatherman Pouch
sos replied to Peter Darby's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Love the detailing ... did you have any trouble putting all the layers together? I keep reading about how interesting it can be... -
Hey guys unless I'm mistaken, Leather Braiding by John (he's on here too) has this but it does not require a core if you use a semi stiff or a gentle, but firm technique. I tend to do 3mm lace when I do these, but have had success with 5mm too. I start the braid on a key ring like a standard 8 part herringbone & pretend there is an extra on each side until the first pass. Here's the link for LBBJ: http://www.lbbyj.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=2
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Thank you Joe! I've been learning ruby on rails & 3 other base langauages along with 17 helpers & 30ish add ons for webwork trying to pace myself at 30ish hours a week on that - so I'm less active currently. I'm excited to see the hat band one! It's funny, as I'm at the one year mark for one of my mini's I did. About to take more photos of it too. Though, I'm afraid the design was a bit flawed. Once I finish moving my leather stuff, then do inventory. I move myself.
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Did you ever see what version you have? I'm still pondering it while I dig for my pack of razor blades. Been busy lately so not cutting new whips
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That is so beautiful!
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I am sitting down to cut some leather and emboss it this week, perhaps next week will be the one I die & test my white die ... My "whimsical" suggestion to your inquiry is, "glitter" ... lots and lots of glitter. When it falls off just add more glitter/glue until happy! You will leave a trail of glitter where ever anyone goes...so then people can just follow the glitter to the source of awesome!
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With Midwest being out of stock & double the price - I'm thinking about contacting Dene directly, anyone know if this information is still good? Does he have a website / email address these days?
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Most the custom metal works I talk to from renfest etc charge ~$100 per inch of the blade...that's high enough grade metal that you pretty much won't ever have to sharpen for personal use. If you're burning through hundreds of belts per year though, I don't think there's such a thing. Even the professionals with the presses for cutting belts have to replace/sharpen their gear. Maybe it's just that it's easier to replace a mediocre blade every so often than to fork out for an extremely high carbon steel blade?
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I put it up on the blog, but it's not really coherent ... going to redo that post at some point, just that it got stolen so I can't remeasure the ends https://madidos.wordpress.com/2015/10/28/whip-13-orange-goat/
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I've had this discussion with anyone buying in the past 5 years ... minus a few single man operations, all of the big businesses ship them unsharpened to save money.
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I'm very interested in how long this sort of dye would last ... especially when I see they recommend sanding and using the adhesive coating ... it just seems like the sun would cook those coats until they flake off after a year or less.