Singer 29-4 repair

[gt2ride]

What number would you call good for the stitch count?  I just bought one at an auction .  I am getting 8 per inch

gt

[mikesc]

What is a good stitch count , is going to depend what it is sewing into ( total thickness ) when it gives any particular stitch count..8 into thin leather is not good ( because as the thickness increases, each stitch will get smaller , the stitch count number per inch will get higher ) depending on what you want to do ..8 sounds worn..as mentioned above, college sewing is your friend..or you could do some very finicky welding..
Clean it all up, ( check the play in the "foot bar"*, less is better ) then see what the stitch count is, crud and gunk makes the stitch count worse.

I can't remember what the true name of the part is, and it is late here, but someone(s) (sic) who knows far more about Singer29 machines will be along..

Edited June 16, 2016 by mikesc

[gt2ride]

Thanks Mike

I am sewing a total of 8oz leather

[mikesc]

What is the stitch count into a piece of thin leather like a 1 or 2 oz ..( 8 stitches could be good for 8oz, I thought you would be quoting the best you could get into thin leather, usually that is the "baseline" ) best stitch count I have heard of for one in good condition was 4 at that 1 or 2 oz kind of thickness, 5 is considered to be good..my 29K was doing 7 when I got it, then I cleaned the crud away from the foot bar, now it runs 5 stitches per inch into 1 oz chrome tan lambskin..Still a lot more cleaning to do ..so little time, so much to do..need a box of 36 hour days..

Also will depend on the thickness of the thread a little..thicker thread gives shorter stitches..

There may be some tweaks that I am unaware of that could get to 4, but wiser and more experienced heads than mine will have to post them if they exist..

Edited June 16, 2016 by mikesc

[gt2ride]

I will try some thin leather tomorrow .  I paid $70.00 for it .  That leaves a lot to play with.  I have several other

machines but this is the only cylinder . 

gt

[GPaudler]

2 hours ago, Sovran81 said:

 Now I am working on a mod to sew without bobbin. No more short runs.

Hi Sovran, I've wondered about that too for my 29-4, what's your idea? I'm a decent machinist and weldor and would be glad to help if I can. Or, at least keep us posted as you proceed.

Thanks,

Gary

 

[RockyAussie]

MOD without bobbin--- I tried a hole through the bottom and all I got was a chain stitcher.

[Sovran81]

5TPI is the best a new 29k will do in thin leather. Anything more than 8 in thin leather is worn out because if you try and sew anything thicker the stitches just get smaller quickly.

 

Mod- drill hole down through the center of the hook shaft. Bend a piece of metal brake line to work as a thread guide/protector to get the thread along the outside of the arm to the bottom of the hook shaft. Feed the thread through the tube and up through the hook shaft. Pass the thread through the bobbin holder and tension spring. Install the bobbin holder. 

I would not attempt this on a machine that was not like new. Normal wear causes sideloading of parts which greatly increases the amount of force to turn the machine over. That added force may be too much for the weakened shaft, though since it is in the bottom end, top end wear may have no effect. I am hoping to try the mod within the next couple months.

When I started the rebuild of mine, it was taken completely apart, cleaned, oiled, assembled and adjusted. I even followed a page I found online to shim the feed cam. It would sew but the new belt slipped often and parts slammed as they overcame spring tension. I replaced, the feed ring and cam, the needlebar and bushing, foot bar revolving bearing(broke it trying to drive a pin out for disassembly) Once those sloppy parts were replaced, I have 6TPI on 4 oz leather, The machine rolls over very easy and there is no slamming of parts as it rolls over. 

 

@RockyAussie In theory, as long as the thread was feed through the bobbin holder which houses the tension spring, it makes no difference if the thread is fed from the bobbin or up through the center of the hook shaft. 

 

Here is the link for the procedure of shimming the feed cam for those that want to try that route first. I used stainless shim stock instead of brass to reduce wear. It did work, but I still wasnt happy with the results.  http://needlebar.org/main/restoration/Singer29K13.doc

Edited June 16, 2016 by Sovran81
added information

[ndnchf]

This is all very helpful.  I appreciate everyone sharing their experiences.

[Sovran81]

12 minutes ago, ndnchf said:

This is all very helpful.  I appreciate everyone sharing their experiences.

Check the bottom end. On the -4 with out a replaceable gearbox(lower arm) that is where the line is drawn for repair. If that is good, then it might be worth replacing other parts needed. The closest machine new is 2600USD from techsew. I think I would rather a rebuilt old Singer though. Definitely worth going through for the price you paid.