Incorporating certain cant angles in holster designs

[samcolt45]

Though I’ve been a forum member for a while the demands of my job, a professional gunwriter for the NRA, keeps me from leatherworking as much as I’d like. The interest to make holsters was instilled on me be an uncle, and when he passed away I inherited most of his leatherworking tools.

Another reason I’d like to get back into making holster is because being wheelchair bound I’ve noticed that strong-side holsters with a standard FBI cant is insignificant for someone who’s constantly seated.

Unfortunately, while I’ve made a few holsters by using Al Stohlman’s “How to Make Holsters” as a guide, the designs are somewhat dated, and the section of the book where he covers cant angle, holster ride and how to plot out your stitch lines extremely vague.

Using a goniometer, I think a 25-degree forward angle is my sweet spot for me. So, now the question becomes how to factor it into my holster design. (I have no interest in trying crossdraw designs at this time.) Whereas most would suggest stitching the belt channel to allow the holster to hang from the belt at the appropriate angle, why not set the pistol at the appropriate angle prior to tracing it out? It seems to me that the end look much better because only the pistol would hang be oriented at an angle on the belt and not the holster.

I saw an instructional video where a guy designed a pancake-style holster by first drawing two horizontal lines across the paper, indicating his belt loops. Then he traced the pistol and proceeded to fill in the lines accordingly.

For my purposes, I’d prefer to steer clear of the two-piece pancake design for the moment (primarily due to the enormous amount of space they take up on the belt) and to concentrate on those designs that utilize either a single or double thickness of folded leather. Style wise, I’m leaning toward something resembling a Bruce Nelson Professional  #1 a 1911 Commander (rear loop/hidden front loop, etc), but adding a few twists: namely a ample sweat guard and adding low-cut in the front a la’ the classic Bianchi speed scabbard.

Some time back, I managed to make a holster similar to what I’m describing, but screwed up when I plotted my stitching lines because I tried doing it after the holster had been dyed and glued. Maybe it’s just me, but Al Stohlman’s ¾-inch border strikes for the stitch line strikes me as too much for the design I have in mind.

Any guidance/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Bob Boyd

[Dwight]

Bob, . . . if you were to come to me with your request, . . . my first two suggestions would be an Avenger style (1st choice, . . . it generally keeps the butt tucked in fairly tight), . . . or a flat backed snap cake.

The down side to the Avenger is when you get it on today, . . . it will pretty much stay on all of today, . . . being in a wheel chair, it would be a real pain for you to take it off.  OTOH, . . . a snap cake will only add about 1 1/4 inch to the length of the holster, . . . and if you have to shed it, . . . two snaps and you are done.  The down side is of course, . . . they can be tricky to mold so that the butt pulls in tight.  

I'm sure you are familiar with these, . . . but just for a refresher, . . . here are some pics.

Both of these are really easy to change the cant, . . . it can be a bit of a pain, . . . but if you wanted either of these up to a 45 degree cant, . . . it can be done.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

People probably able to help you , but would need to clarify .... what are you calling 25° ?  

25 off of horizontal?  or 25 off the vertical?

 

[samcolt45]

Thanks Dwight and JLA

A modified  Avenger-style is the holster I was describing earlier. The problem I'm trying to figure out is how to emulate such a design with a 25-degree, butt-forward can't, a low-cut front and a sweat guard---preferably so only the gun is angled and the pistol is angled.

 

Bob

[chiefjason]

OK, it might take some imagination here.  This holster is for a S&W X frame and it's cross draw.  However, the trailing loop is the last thing I do here.  So it would be easy to beef up the bottom trailing section.  Making it a larger glued section lower on the frame.  Stitch the back belt loop.  Mold the holster to your liking.  Then figure out the exact cant you want and place the rear loop and trim the holster to your liking.  This assumes you are hand stitching the line around the firearm since it is done AFTER molding.  But this is how I make my holsters. 

Obviously you will need to change some things, but this method might be helpful to you.  One thing you will have to do first is figure the rough angle of the rear belt loop because you stitch that in.  I do that with the cardboard.  I make the full size pattern then draw in the reinforcement pieces.  Then I re copy the full size pattern and trim out my reinforcement patterns from the first pattern.  That give me a full size pattern and the pieces cut in exactly the shape I need of for the final product.    

Personally, I would do away with the cut out in front.  At that high cant, the gun is coming out at an angle where that cut may not be necessary.  As to the sweat shield, notice mine is stitched in with the reinforcement.  That really stiffens things up which might help with this thing riding pretty high.  

Link to the build.

BuildingThe Beast - S&w Stealth Hunter

 

 

 

 

Edited July 14, 2016 by chiefjason

[samcolt45]

Thanks Chiefjason. I appreciate the advice.

 

Bob