rktaylor Report post Posted August 9, 2016 I just bought this for $40 at an antique store this week. They had it labeled as a mezzeluna knife. I have been looking for information on the maker, but haven't found much. I am wondering if I got a great or just a good deal. I'm going to sharpen it today and try to clean it up. Thanks for any insight into my purchase. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted August 9, 2016 A close up of the maker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt Hammerless Report post Posted August 9, 2016 That's a nice looking knife. I really like the striping in the handle! Aaron Crawford is a known leather tool maker. I've seen some tools with his name along with Sauerbier's name. Bruce Johnson has a bit of info on his website, in his "My Collection" album. Here's the link: brucejohnsonleather.com/about-me/my-tool-collection/ It's the box that's second from the bottom row on the left (at least on my computer display). Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted August 10, 2016 Thanks, I found Bruce's comments and have bought tools from him. It doesn't seem like there is a lot of information on Crawford knives. I thought the Newark, NJ mark was a good sign (and the fact that the store didn't know what it was). I got it fairly sharp today, but I need to get it cleaned up. I hope it holds an edge. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted August 10, 2016 The problem with any kind of restoration is how far do you go? Some people want to preserve some sort of character, others (like myself) will want to get things as clean and as new as possible. Hmmm.... one man's patina is another man's dirt. My attitude is forget sentimentality, these things are meant to be used, so get it cleaned up. Thus the whole thing becomes much easier. Scrape the handle with a knife blade, and then clean it all up with varying grades of abrasive paper, and polish the ferrule with metal polish Sharpening would be simpler too - varying grades of sharpening stone followed by a strop When that's done make a sheath or cover from leather, both to protect the blade from damage, and to protect other things, like your fingers, from the blade Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted August 11, 2016 Thanks zuludog. I lean toward sentimental, so does that make me patina or dirt? I do plan to use it, but I want to make sure I protect any value it may have. I probably got ahead of myself, but I have a pretty good edge on it now. I hope the steel is good enough to hold it. I also made a sheath, so my blade and fingers are safe. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted August 11, 2016 If it is something I plan to use or sell to use - I'd save the mark and clean up the rest. If it is going into my corner of cool S**T Tools, then I mostly leave patina but remove rust. Even the cool tools get used for their intended purpose at least once before they go on the wall..I put enough of an edge on the knives to cut something for fun. The draw gauges get to cut a strap or two. I have an old willow leaf blade I keep around just for that purpose. I'd like to think those old boys who made these old gems and those that used them to make a living before me would appreciate me using them "one more time" before they get hung up. Besides, when you cut some leather with a 150-175 year old tool, you feel history in your hand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirkba Report post Posted August 11, 2016 rktaylor, I would suggest you use a "chemical' clean up process if you want to preserve the workpiece. Electrolysis is going to return the blade clean and all the grime removed without scratches to the steel or removing the branding. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQNvhUYqCkw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted August 11, 2016 There is a product Evapo-Rust that works pretty good and is about $7 a quart on Amazon. Even cheaper by the gallon. I use it a lot to clean-up vintage chisels which I restore. When done, I go at them with the Foredom to get the crud out of the pits. After cleaning, I blue them with Oxpho cold blue, although I haven't done that to a head knife yet. If there are a lot of pits, it covers a bunch of sins. The Evapo-Rust doesn't mess much with the lettering. All in all, unless it is so rare that its value is in the rust holding it together, clean it up and use it. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24VOLTS Report post Posted September 3, 2016 Evapo- Rust is the best! It is gentle on the metal and does not harm anything else. Cleans up with water. I really like this stuff. Much better then doing the vinegar thing, which can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted September 28, 2016 (edited) Thanks for all the advice. I used Evaporust to clean it, then a little buffing. I have a pretty good edge on it, but it could be sharper. One more thing to practice. Randy Edited September 28, 2016 by rktaylor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites