What is he best leather for?

[metroplexchl]

I am brand new to leatherworking. I don't plan on ever making it a business, but I do want to make it a fun hobby.  One thing I assumed in the beginning was that I could buy a big roll of some type of leather and make a small bag or sack, a wallet, a belt, a briefcase, or anything. It seems that it's turning out to be quite different. One should use certain kind of leather for certain projects....or at least it appears so.

I know that some things can obviously be made with many different kinds of leather, but is there a general rule of thumb for choosing a leather for a project?

Chris

[Dwight]

Of all the things you mentioned that you might "some day" like to make:  vegetable tanned leather will work fine for all of them.  In fact, if you want to do any serious stamping or tooling, . . . it is your leather of choice.

Then it only becomes a choice of thickness.  There are some "rules of thumb" for thickness based on the item you are making, . . . but at the same time, . . . those rules of thumb are not set in stone.  A little thinner on the leather for a lady's purse, will make it a bit more flexible, . . . an little thicker for a holster, will make it more bulky.  

Nice thing about this place, . . . and at least my Tandy store, . . . tell em what you want to make, . . . somebody there will give you a real good idea, and possibly even a couple of alternatives.

May God bless,

Dwight

[metroplexchl]

Thanks,  do you get all your leather at tandy? They seem high according to some other online shops, but I have no experience on the best quality reputable places to buy leather online. Where do you get your leather?

Chris

[leatherwytch]

I am sorry but after decades of using Tandy leather veg tan. I am more than partial to using Herman Oak instead for tooling; belts, bags, etc. I actually picked up some more today. I won't say that Tandy doesn't have some nice garment leather because they do. I am just more partial to Herman Oak. I love the way it cuts, tools and it is tanned the old way or six weeks or more.

[metroplexchl]

5 minutes ago, leatherwytch said:

I am sorry but after decades of using Tandy leather veg tan. I am more than partial to using Herman Oak instead for tooling; belts, bags, etc. I actually picked up some more today. I won't say that Tandy doesn't have some nice garment leather because they do. I am just more partial to Herman Oak. I love the way it cuts, tools and it is tanned the old way or six weeks or more.

I looked at Hermann Oaks' site. Looks great. Is "drum dyed' the leather where they dye it for great lengths of time and it seems to be dyed all the way thru the hide?

[CaptQuirk]

Where you buy your leather makes some difference. Lots of folks carry the Herman Oaks, at different prices. The location of where you buy can make a bigger difference when you figure in shipping. That said, while I was searching for leather sources, I found Panhandle Leather, located somewhere in Texas... don't remember where exactly. The thing is, they are likely closer to you than many of the sources mentioned here, That means the product will get to you sooner, and cost less to ship.

[metroplexchl]

26 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said:

Where you buy your leather makes some difference. Lots of folks carry the Herman Oaks, at different prices. The location of where you buy can make a bigger difference when you figure in shipping. That said, while I was searching for leather sources, I found Panhandle Leather, located somewhere in Texas... don't remember where exactly. The thing is, they are likely closer to you than many of the sources mentioned here, That means the product will get to you sooner, and cost less to ship.

Oh my....I just saw on Hermann Oaks that they have a minimum order amount. As a serious hobbyist, I don't want to buy in bulk. At least not until I get much more experience after a few years.

[bikermutt07]

For Hermann Oak, check out Springfield Leather. You can get different size pieces or straps or hides from them.

Another option is Wickett and Craig. They will sell single hides to the public.

Both are great leathers.

[metroplexchl]

How does Horween compare to those mentioned already? I just googled and their name came up.

[leatherwytch]

Actually there are very few in the world that are authorized to carry Herman Oak. If they are not authorized and they say they are carrying it they are in trouble. I actually spoke with the owner today, he was at the only store in Canada  today. With the owner of the store I was in.

 

[Wdfd908]

I too am an amateur hobbyist. For me, I have found 4-5oz leather is the sweet spot. If I want something thin, I use one piece (wallet backs. A little thicker, I'll add a thin lining (3oz suede or such). If I want it heavy duty, like a belt, I'll use 2 pieces of 5oz back to back and stitch them. I have made bags, wallets, belts, briefcases, etc and that seems to work well. I have also bought thicker and thinner leathers, I have some beautiful black 2 oz buffalo hides that a PERFECT for wallet lining and pockets.

As for where to buy? As a hobby it I don't need top quality so I tend to buy seconds. Two places I shop from are Brettuns Village Leather in Maine and Maverick Leather Company in Oregon. I like Brettuns because they have a good prices, online ordering, and offer free shipping in the US. They also have a variety of tools and hardware. Maverick has a wider selection, including Horween, WC, and HO. I tend to buy from them as they have more variety in color and thickness and have specials on Facebook a couple times a week. Maverick charges you for shipping and only seems to take phone orders. 

You asked about Horween, they have some great leathers and some consider them a gold standard (Chromexcel) They are good and have been doing it for a century. If you want to buy Horween, you should go through someplace like Maverick who sells a ton of Horween seconds.

Edited August 28, 2016 by Wdfd908

[metroplexchl]

1 hour ago, Wdfd908 said:

I too am an amateur hobbyist. For me, I have found 4-5oz leather is the sweet spot. If I want something thin, I use one piece (wallet backs. A little thicker, I'll add a thin lining (3oz suede or such). If I want it heavy duty, like a belt, I'll use 2 pieces of 5oz back to back and stitch them. I have made bags, wallets, belts, briefcases, etc and that seems to work well. I have also bought thicker and thinner leathers, I have some beautiful black 2 oz buffalo hides that a PERFECT for wallet lining and pockets................

Man, excellent info! I appreciate it.  All of this has been very helpful. 

Please keep the good advice coming.  

Wdfd908, did you take a class, watch any particularly helpful youtube tutorials, or did you just fake it till you make it like I am? :-)

chris

 

[Dwight]

13 hours ago, metroplexchl said:

Thanks,  do you get all your leather at tandy? They seem high according to some other online shops, but I have no experience on the best quality reputable places to buy leather online. Where do you get your leather?

Chris

Yes, . . . I have tried the "order without seeing" thing from different suppliers, . . . and was basically disappointed every time.  I go into the Tandy store, . . . search through the piles, . . . buy the piece that works for me, . . . and I'm on my way.  

No shipping costs, no waiting three or four days, . . . and NO big holes, blemishes, scars, etc, . . . such as I have gotten before.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

I rarely buy ANY leather at Tandy.  Last couple times I went, I dug through STACKS of leather and didn't find anything I was willing to use.

I used to praise and promote their "Royal Meadow" carving leather -- prolly made THOUSANDS of projects with it over the years.  Then they discontinued it.  I suppose it was a cost decision -- probably takes more money to make that than the other "brands" they sell.  Too bad for me - though it may have benefited them to close it out.  That stuff carved beautifully, draped just a bit being somewhat less rigid than H.O., and I never got a piece that didn't take dye VERY well..

In fact, that leather is the only stuff I've bought and not ONCE had an issue with -- perhaps, as Dwight mentioned - that's because I went to the store and picked out the ones I wanted.  Ahh... the good ole days -- when you only went through 7 hides to find 5 you like ....

In carving leather, I like Wickett & Craig, Hermann Oak, and if I could find it again... that tandy "royal meadow" brand.  I've made what I think is acceptable projects from all the above.

But that's just regarding tooling leather, and you didn't say tooling leather.  While there are some leathers more commonly used for some projects, there is no "rule" that must be followed.  

• Bridle leather or harness certainly does better on items which are subjected to hard use or the elements.  
• Garment leather obviously intended for garments (though I've seen some very nice "garment leather" handbags).
• "Tooling" leather required for tooling (duh)

I personally never did get the Horween "thing".  I don't find it all that nice looking and don't actually care for the feel of it.  But there is that. 

Beyond that, I've bought a LOT of different weights and colors of leather for various projects over the years.  Much of it from suppliers who didn't say where or how it was made - but still worked great.

 

[zuludog]

I use 3mm veg tan to make knife sheaths

Scroll down to the bottom of Tandy's homepage and click on 'Leather Buying Guide'. It has a conversion chart between the various measurements for leather thickness. And a diagram showing the choice of thicknesses for different items - wallets, sheaths, holsters and so on.

A veg tan belly is cheap and will give you a fair amount of leather to practice on and make small items.

[Wdfd908]

20 hours ago, metroplexchl said:

 

I have not taken a class. I watched a lot of YouTube Videos and read a ton of articles here. Other than that, I'm a hands on learner, I started with a few coasters with suede sewn on, then a few belt, and within 3 weeks I made my first briefcase.

The thing to do is find something you want to work on (saddle stitching for example), watch the videos, then practice. I usually work at night after my kid is asleep and my wife is watching TV. The more I do the better I become.

[metroplexchl]

Goo advice all.  Anyone know what this thing is? I've had several instances where I could've used one.

 

[metroplexchl]

A circle tracer maybe?

[billybopp]

Wind Fire Designs Circle Tool

[metroplexchl]

4 hours ago, billybopp said:

Wind Fire Designs Circle Tool

Woot! WOOT!  Thank you sir.