Newbie Getting Started

[Geologicguy]

Hi Everyone, 

Warning: Complete Newb.  

For the past 6 years or so I've had a desire to learn leatherwork.  I love well-made leather products and since I've got fair hand eye coordination I finally want to give a go.     I've been trying my best to read as much as possible about the various thread types, leather types, sewing machines, etc.  I had contacted a guy on Etsy a few days ago who does great work and he imparted some advice which was "First, know what kind of projects you want to take on"  and "Start with hand sewing to see if you like it."  Seems logical.  So having given this some thought, I'd like to start perhaps with a bag, like a possibles bag, and maybe belts, and then more elaborate bags with linings, pockets, sections, etc.   I want to use premium materials in my items.  I'm from Chicago originally (home of Horween) but I live in the UK these days (London).  I could really use some good advice because I'm finding myself overloaded with info researching this on my own. 

1. What is the best leather (and/or canvas) to use for a mens bag, like a possibles bag and/or satchel?  I've received some samples from a Scottish mill of some wax canvas up to 24oz which seems to be a reasonable material. 

2. Can someone explain, or post a link to a good source,  on thread thicknesses, how they're categorized and their applications?   i.e. what is a good thread "gauge" and type to use in a bag application.   I've read Polyester is the best weatherproof thread out there. 

3.  What kind of lining would be good for a bag, if any? Would a tartan wool work well?  Are linings typically glued in (if so, what type of glue)? or stitched in?  

4.  If I'm doing this by hand, what is the best needle to use? Are there specific leather or canvas type needles out there? and do they match up with the thread thickness somehow? 

5. Let's say I go a sewing machine route.  What are some good sewing machine types / brands that I should consider? I've done a bit of research on this and whilst some people suggest a vintage Singer 201K, others seem to use much more industrial and robust machines like a Techsew.   I've seen some amazing videos by Arthur Porter. And Wizcraft's posts stand out on this forum. Amazing. 

6. Any really good classes, books,  or online bag making tutorials out there that are recommended?  

I know this is a load of questions and anyone answering doesn't need to address them all.  I suppose I'm looking for a general "approach" to this whole thing and to understand if there are any "rules" involved.  Thanks so much, and apologies for the long post.  Any and all advice you can throw my way is appreciated. 

Kind Regards, 

Geo

[bikermutt07]

Tiger bonded polyester will be the best thread for you on your side of the pond.

Thread size, needle size, stitches per inch, and even awl sizes are related to each other, but I haven't figured that out yet.

Some linings are sewn, some are glued.

There are no rules.

Welcome, and have fun.

[Grumpytoo]

pig skin makes a good tough lining. I use white glue (PVA) glue in large areas and contact cement for smaller areas. I generally glue and stitch.

[gmace99]

Talk to A W Midgley & Son Ltd, 13, Cheddar Business Park, Wedmore Road, Cheddar BS27 3EB, United Kingdom for your leather. They are a really helpful company. I think they do clearance leathers at a good price if you go visit them.

[Geologicguy]

Thanks everyone for the great info.  Taking it all on board. 

Cheers, 

Geo

[DJole]

" 6. Any really good classes, books,  or online bag making tutorials out there that are recommended?   "

Oh, yes! Here are a couple that I have bookmarked; both are British leatherworkers--

• Ian Atkinson's video series (his shop is Leodis Leather up in Leeds) are very nice-- good camera work and explanations. (see http://ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm for a complete list). He has some bag making build-along tutorials that are likely what you need. 
• Nigel Armitage (of Armitage leather) has excellent videos about technique: see his Youtube channel: (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8urn9l3pybW5LztUa6zbOA)

[gmace99]

I have a couple bag making videos on my youtube page  even this one on making a bag in under 6 minutes . To see the others look on my youtube. You might want to look at one of my playlists showing you some hand stitching tips.

 

[HobbledCobbler]

Okay, I can help you with some of your information.

Thread that is heavy enough for leatherwork, depending upon what your project is, is going to be bought by TEX or # or Ticket Number.

http://www.servicethread.com/blog/industrial-sewing-thread-sizes-explained

Polyester seems to be people's favorite but I prefer Nylon. Nylon is wear resistant, water resistant.used on shoes and luggage. It comes in a good number of colors and it can be bought in small spools in the US and other places.

Wawak.com is my favorite store.

You can get small spools of bonded nylon in size TEX 70/#69 in 21 different colors for $4.19 ea.for 375 yds. which is pretty reasonable and doesn't require that you buy a huge spool. Their threads go up into the TEX 210/#207 range for the nylon. You can also find a new product, relatively by Coats in size TEX70 that is listed as Coats S964 Extra-Strong Upholstery Thread. It is nylon for machine/hand stitching and outdoors. UV protected use a size #18 machine needle.

They also have some UV threads in polyester Coats S971 Outdoor Thread in small spools.

On needle sizes, the thread has to be able to sit easily in the needle. If it's tight, whether you are hand sewing or machine sewing it will either fray or break.

Put your thread through the needle and then tilt one end of the thread. Does it slide easily? If it gets stuck, then the thread might be too large for that needle size.

 

On needle sizes that depends on the thickness of your leather and whether it is for decorative or utility stitching.

Also, if you choose to handstitch using an awl, you can buy industrial leather sewing machine needles (don't use it on canvas it will cut it) and it will fit into your awl.

Needles for sewing awls and leather hand stitching have a different numbering system than regular machine needles or even regular hand sewing needles.