Need a strap cutter- where to start?

[CaptQuirk]

[Trox]

Those modern draw gauge blades are not very good (unless you re sharpen them with the bevel on one side only, like a rudder that press the leather against the guide). Terry Knipscield makes a very good draw gauge blade, you find it in his web site. (It to wide for the HF. Osb Latta pattern draw gauge, but It will fit most other). A good blade makes the job easy and it's well worth the extra money. By the way I do have a couple original strap cutters laying around, I could sell you one cheap. I use plough gauges (and Draw gauges on narrow reins). But I'm based in Oslo , Norway so the shipping will perhaps kill the deal. I do not stop me from buying in the USA  

[CaptQuirk]

@Trox- Yeah, I think shipping would kill the deal. I appreciate the offer though

[Red Cent]

Get the wooden draw cutter and do this to it.

 

 

[CaptQuirk]

I'm thinking the dowels are there to support the leather as you draw it through?

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

8 hours ago, CaptQuirk said:

@Big Sioux Saddlery- I usually work with 6-10oz leather, no reason for me to go that heavy. And I really can't afford one of each. I wanted a Blonde and a Redhead, but couldn't afford both of those either... Anyways, I am a beginner. That said, if I had to choose between one or the other, which strap cutter am I likely to mess up the most leather with?

The wooden one will work just fine for what you want to do, and IMO will be easier to learn to use. Everyone screws up a strap with a draw gauge at some point. Occasionally I still do.  I have "The Original Strap Cutter" so I would recommend that over the Tandy model, just going off of the quality of most of the rest of Tandy's stuff.  Keep a sharp blade in it and they're pretty easy to use. Curves. . . it depends on how much of a curve you're talking about. Sometimes, a curve will develop along the straight edge that you're cutting from, just due to the difference in the density of the leather throughout the length of the hide. A subtle curve is no problem to follow.  A sharp or abrupt curve could be a little more difficult. 

[CaptQuirk]

Don't need a huge or sharp curve. I posted about the western gunbelt I made not fitting right, and was told to cut it on a curve. It looked like maybe 1-2 inches from the example shown, over the length of the belt.

[Trox]

That was a nice modification Red Cent. It's also smart to take of some of the edges on the wooden bar (see pic), This way it will not leave marks on the remaining leather and are easier to feed in too. (it's a Stohlmans trick). I got a brand new one (top) I can sell if is hard to get the original, I'll keep one because they are good on very thin leather.

Tor

[JLSleather]

I got a wooden one.  Don't know how "original it is", but I just cut strips... the art don't start til after that part...

 

[CaptQuirk]

I am currently mastering the art of screwing up leather, as my blade tends to wander. Anything has to help.

Trox, nice tip, thanks.

[Red Cent]

The dowel rods do hold the leather for you. It makes cutting thin leather very easy and straight(er). I sometimes use 3-4 ounce veg tanned as a liner and it cuts it very well. 8-9 ounce is real easy. They also free up a finger or two.

Stumbled onto a another trick that be done to the wooden strap cutter. I started using the blades for the safety beveler and fixing the tool so that the blades are placed at an angle. Either bottom back or top back. I ran out of the strap cutter blades and accidentally put the beveler blade  in the slot and did not know it was at an angle. Amazed how easily it cut 8-9 ounce leather.

Trox, since that picture, I rounded the edges. I saw the parallel shiny mark too.

[Ken Nelson]

I use an original wood strap cutter and have used it for over 20 years.   I cut everything in straps from saddle strings to stirrup leathers from 15 oz  HO.  I got started using it because I was getting some children visiting my shop and thought it might a bit less dangerous if one of them picked it up to "look" at it.  I keep a supply of strap cutter blades on hand and will break one once in a while and change them regularly.   I block my stirrup leathers out, and dunk them quickly before I cut them.  There is a guy in Libby, MT that builds a super good blade for a draw guage.  Brett Bronson custom knives, and they come super sharp. 406-293-2032.  

[CaptQuirk]

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. I pulled the trigger on an Original from the BuckleGuy. $29.00 seemed about a mid level price, between the knock offs and a cheap draw gauge.

Before dropping this thread, I'll ask again about cutting curved belts. I want another crack at cutting a gunfighter belt, about 4", which is the max for one of these strap cutters? Can it cut that on a curve, and how much trickier is it than cutting a regular strap?

[Northmount]

15 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said:

Before dropping this thread, I'll ask again about cutting curved belts. I want another crack at cutting a gunfighter belt, about 4", which is the max for one of these strap cutters? Can it cut that on a curve, and how much trickier is it than cutting a regular strap?

If the edge you are cutting from is on a curve, the guide will follow the curve, and of course the knife is parallel to the guide, so it does cut curves.  The radius will be limited at some point.  The smaller the radius, the harder it will be to guide the cutter.

Tom

[CaptQuirk]

Ok, thanks northmount.

[dikman]

I was going to make one (pretty simple design) but then found one on ebay (from China) cheap enough that it wasn't worth my while making it. I had to modify it, however, as the two wooden bars were actually one piece with a slot cut about 2/3 the length.I could see that would be an issue so continued the cut to separate the pieces, fitted an adjustment screw at the end and a spring inside the bars to keep them apart. Works fine so far, but I think I'll do Red's mod with the dowels. And it was less than 1/2 the cost of the "proper" one.

[Trox]

I got all different strap cutter tools, but nothing beats a good modern Blanchard plough (with a old type knife attached). Knife set up with the bevel on the inside only, it works as a rudder and compress the leather against the guide.