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A friend of mine and I are struggle to stop fiebing black from rubbing off a small projec (watch band)t, so far he's

buffed it for ever :-)

tried two coats of resolene allowing each coat to dry over night

it still leaks through

any ideas, I've suggested he stops using the fiebings and tries the good old Raven Oil

TIA

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I've heard the usmc black carries on like that but I haven't heard of the pro black doing that.

Is this the regular black?..

Edited by bikermutt07

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Obviously, . . . we must be doing something different.

First, . . . I only use Feibings black oil dye, . . . I gave up on the USMC black several years ago for the reason you mentioned, . . . the rub off.

Secondly, . . . I always thin the black down, . . . 50/50 dye and thinner.

Third, . . . I dip dye, . . . a quick dunk, . . . no more than a couple of seconds in the liquid.

Fourth, . . . I .....LET IT DRY, . . . DRY, . . . DRY.  Black sometimes takes longer, . . . so I give it the time to dry really good and dry.

Fifth, . . . I buff it hard, . . . using a terry cloth wash cloth (salvaged from my wife's rag bin), . . . and I buff it like I'm trying to rub the black color off the leather, . . . hard, . . . using some real force.

Sixth, . . . a 50/50 single coating of Resolene, . . . brushed on with a bristle hair brush.

Let it dry, . . . lightly buff, . . . and I have zero, rub off using that formula.

May God bless,

Dwight

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..what Dwight said.

Edited by bikermutt07

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Yes water

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I always dip full strength Feibings Pro Oil black, let dry, buff.

To tell you the truth, I've never had any rub off; even on my buffing rag.

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What is the reason for diluting the dye to a 50 /50 ratio

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1 hour ago, wayner said:

What is the reason for diluting the dye to a 50 /50 ratio

Gives you a lighter shade. Most people find full strength to dark for their liking.

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I use pro oil black full strength brushed or sponged on with no rub off. Buff good as Dwight said. Never had a problem and usually the buffing rag is clean. I even get impatient and buff it sometimes minutes later and still don't get rub off.  All the other colors i thin at least 50/50 because i like the tonal variations you get from multiple wash coats. I have mahogany that is thinned 4:1 and some 10:1. If you do 5-6  coats and purposely brush it uneven and blotchy like a kindergardener with parkinsons would do, is the best way to get that rich mahogany look.  Oh i forgot, dont thin red. It thins to bright fuschia.....Usmc is crap because of the rub off..... It is a little less blue black (more blacker?)than the regular but that is fixable by doing a wash coat of 4:1 brown or mahogany before the black.

Now don't even get me started about tandy water based stuff and rub off...grrrr. I live in a rainy city.

Edited by TinkerTailor

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Ok, I'm confused about the experiences I've been reading about the Tandy EcoFlo Waterstains (made by Fenice for Tandy).  I have just used some the other day, medium brown.  I used a cotton ball, and rubbed it in like the instructions said.  Went on oily, almost waxy, but after about 1 or 2 minutes of working it in, the leather was plenty dark.  Then I wiped it dry, and left it for a day or so.  You couldn't rub off a spec of brown if you wanted too with a rag, you'd have to get after it with some sand paper.  Which I did so I could glue some pieces together, that was a tough finish.  And I've read about it cracking, but I've bent it back and forth several times, no cracking.  I kind of like the stuff, it didn't leave the leather all dry and hard like the Pro Oil dyes, but a nice even lustrous finish.   Anyone know why such a difference in experiences?

YinTx

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On ‎10‎/‎31‎/‎2016 at 9:14 PM, YinTx said:

Ok, I'm confused about the experiences I've been reading about the Tandy EcoFlo Waterstains (made by Fenice for Tandy).  I have just used some the other day, medium brown.  I used a cotton ball, and rubbed it in like the instructions said.  Went on oily, almost waxy, but after about 1 or 2 minutes of working it in, the leather was plenty dark.  Then I wiped it dry, and left it for a day or so.  You couldn't rub off a spec of brown if you wanted too with a rag, you'd have to get after it with some sand paper.  Which I did so I could glue some pieces together, that was a tough finish.  And I've read about it cracking, but I've bent it back and forth several times, no cracking.  I kind of like the stuff, it didn't leave the leather all dry and hard like the Pro Oil dyes, but a nice even lustrous finish.   Anyone know why such a difference in experiences?

YinTx

I am using ecoflo pro water stains, haven't had any problems with them. I found ecoflo antique will streak if you topcoat with Tan Kote though. I also use feibings oil stain with great success, and haven't had any rub off with the black. 

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@Howie696

May I ask what kind of leather are you using?

this Fiebing's black dye problem happens with all your project or just on this one?

Have you tested it on other (different kind/type/brand) leather?

 

 

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