Work surfaces

[brmax]

Harry that's a nice workbench, for sure!  I'm needing to fix one up and that helps the plan.

Hey Dwight did that top mat come like a sheet or is it rolled, I really don't have a clue there?

Floyd

[plinkercases]

3 hours ago, Harry Marinakis said:

Cheap tools: use, abuse, toss, replace

So what if it mushrooms a bit? Grind down the mushroom if it bothers you.

The poly/rawhide mallet is so wimpy that it's use is very limited

Ok. Just asking (not commenting)  since I was always taught not to go metal on metal but if it work for you then great. I have a 2 lb polly maul and mallet and they seem to work for me but I assume with what you are punching through and with you need the kaboom you get.

And brmx good question about that measuring matt. Curios too.

[Roq]

The mats come rolled when shipped. Let it lay in the sun on a flat surface before you use it.

[Harry Marinakis]

14 hours ago, plinkercases said:

Ok. Just asking (not commenting)  since I was always taught not to go metal on metal but if it work for you then great.

Personal preference, but there's nothing wrong with metal on metal. You might get some mushrooming on the hammered end of a tool, but - so what? IMHO complaining about mushrooming is like complaining that your knives get dull when you use them to cut leather.

I think the concern is either tool longevity or ruining the hardness/temper of the tool if you try to grind it, neither of which is really a problem.I've been hammering away for years on cheap rivet setter from Tandy - the top is mushrooming, but that has not affected its function or my ability to work with it. And it's cheap enough that in 20 years when it's really bad then I'll splurge $10 to buy a new one.

As far as the hardness & temper is concerned - we are stamping cased leather, not steel, so it really doesn't matter. You can make a stamp from mild steel (which can't be hardened to any significant degree) and it ill work fine for decades. If you are that concerned about ruing the hardness & temper by grinding off the mushroom, then suspend the tool in cold water, grind slowly so that it doesn't get hot, and frequently dip the entire tool in the cold water to cool it off. But I've never done any grinding on mushrooms because it makes no difference in function.

IMHO using a heavy 8 oz to 24 oz steel hammer to get one-hit results is worth it.

Tooling is another matter, I like to use a lightweight poly hammer because I'm working gently and it's not as tiring.

 

Below: Forging a leather stamp from mild steel

Edited September 25, 2016 by Harry Marinakis

[plinkercases]

I would love to see some of the tools you forge yourself.

[TinkerTailor]

1 hour ago, Harry Marinakis said:

Personal preference, but there's nothing wrong with metal on metal. You might get some mushrooming on the hammered end of a tool, but - so what? IMHO complaining about mushrooming is like complaining that your knives get dull when you use them to cut leather.

I think the concern is either tool longevity or ruining the hardness/temper of the tool if you try to grind it, neither of which is really a problem.I've been hammering away for years on cheap rivet setter from Tandy - the top is mushrooming, but that has not affected its function or my ability to work with it. And it's cheap enough that in 20 years when it's really bad then I'll splurge $10 to buy a new one.

As far as the hardness & temper is concerned - we are stamping cased leather, not steel, so it really doesn't matter. You can make a stamp from mild steel (which can't be hardened to any significant degree) and it ill work fine for decades. If you are that concerned about ruing the hardness & temper by grinding off the mushroom, then suspend the tool in cold water, grind slowly so that it doesn't get hot, and frequently dip the entire tool in the cold water to cool it off. But I've never done any grinding on mushrooms because it makes no difference in function.

IMHO using a heavy 8 oz to 24 oz steel hammer to get one-hit results is worth it.

Tooling is another matter, I like to use a lightweight poly hammer because I'm working gently and it's not as tiring.

 

Below: Forging a leather stamp from mild steel

Using too small of a hammer with too much force reduces accuracy, increases the tenancy to strike crooked and increasing the likelihood of mushrooming. In addition, the additional blows due to the lower weight will increase this effect. One square hit with a big hammer will do much less damage than several hits with a hammer that's too light. I use a 2.5lb rock drilling hammer with my setters and punches. One big whaap...Have for years, leather, wood, steel. Never had one break and very little mushrooming on any of them, especially if there is a chamfer on the top of the tool.

[JimBonita]

Good tip I found on Youtube.  I use a glass cutting board for gluing, edge kote, and sloppy stuff.  A single edge razor scraper and some windex will make it slick enough to skive on.

[plinkercases]

Excellent tip thanks.

[impulse]

By far the best surface for punches is lead. I have melted down scrap lead to form a 8" x 4" x 1" thick rectangle. this is firm enough to get a sharp punch thru thick leather with one hit, yet soft enough to protect the tool. It works much better than a poly cutting board. When one side is marked up I just flip it over. This is great for hole punches, slot punches, strap end punches etc. About every 2-3 months I refresh the surfaces with another melt down, using a blow torch. Caution! Do not use your kitchen stove to heat lead! I have a butane camp stove which I use in the open air only.

"Them green mats" (self-healing) are also my choice for cutting, and granite slab for tooling.

Cheers, Lois

[LumpenDoodle2]

I used to have green cutting mats the full length of my work/cutting table, until I started using a round knife.   I then replaced the mats with a 150cm x 75cm x4mm sheet of HDPE.  Best thing I've done, as the round knife doesn't 'grab' anymore, and even my Stanley knife glides easier.

I also have a small solid table with a 7" deep, by 18" diameter round of wood on top for using punches.    The end on grain protects the punches perfectly.

My hubby made a second table for me, upon which I have my little granite slab for stamping.   It eould be nice to have a larger slab, but...........  Think 'Tiny Homes'  and you have an idea of my workshop.