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JJDD

Burnishing / Slicker Machine

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Hi all!

Anyone here have experience with / or have tested both the Weaver Master Tools Leather Slicker and the Cobra MP Burnisher? I've read a few posts about making a similar machine with a double grinder, but between the Weaver and Cobra-- which would you prefer? 

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Between the weaver and the cobra, I'd go with a small drill press and a separate burnisher.  You can get the ENTIRE set up for about $100 (ish).

 

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Ah, that's true.. any good (quiet as you can get) drill press recommendations out there?

 

Also still interested to hear anyones experience with the Cobra and Weaver burnishers, if they've tried them :) 

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well not really but sort of, I bought a 2 speed motor that was set up for polishing metal which is basically the same type of motor that cobra uses.  The only difference between the one from cobra and the one I bought is the shaft size, the shaft on the one I bought is a little larger than the burnisher that cobra sells but I got it to work.  The reason that I bought that motor was to be able to use a rubber wheel sander on one side that needs to run at 1750 or it will blow up the rubber wheel.  So the motor for me performs 2 functions sanding and burnishing, but I also run a drill press burnisher.  I had the drill press and found a custom wood worker in town and was able to get a couple of pieces of cocobolo then drilled it out stuck a long bolt through it then used a file to create to different size groves I wanted for burnishing.  I will use both of and on depending what tool is performing what function at the time.  Hope this helps a little.

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Can also buy shaft stock (keyed also), couple of pillow block bearings, a pulley, and the adaptors to go on the end of the shaft stock, a motor, and a belt of your choice. Depending on where you source things you can make a nice double ended set up relatively cheap and it will be built for the job. Grizzly, enco, places like that have all the things if you wanted to go that route. 

The motor is the priciest part but you can get a used motor if you do the above method as long as you can adapt a pulley to it or it already has one. 

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Here is a similar thread I started about saving some money.

 

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I agree with JLSleather though, in my case, I simply adapt my full height free standing drill press to do this work.

The machine is part of my wood-working workshop and, other than it being high enough that I don't need to alter my stance to use the chuck comfortably, it also has a large rotating table.  With a wide range of speeds so that I can fine tune the "friction" that rotating table can easily have guides and/or formers bolted to it.  You then wind up the table so that your work lines up with your "slicking wheel". That means full control over the leather your burnishing.

I make my own "slicking wheels", some are wood - cedar and pitch pine are great due to their natural oiliness - but others are plastic such as glass filled nylon or PTFE.  With each I use the drill press as well as other machines to make the exact burnishing profile I want, I never try to make a universal or "one size fits all" type.  If one ever gets a bit too worn then I make another.  Due to the generous size of the rotating table many are fairly large in diameter and do seem to work better that way.  Larger size = faster tool speed = slower machine speed.

Set up with that sort of gear on the free standing drill press is very quick and the resultant finish defies anyone to say how it was done.  The heavier the leather the easier the job . . the total opposite of doing it by hand.

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41 minutes ago, HENDREFORGAN said:

Larger size = faster tool speed = slower machine speed.

Exactly.  I see people all the time talking about a 2" diameter wheel churning at 1750 rpm --- yikes!

 

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21 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Exactly.  I see people all the time talking about a 2" diameter wheel churning at 1750 rpm --- yikes!

 

 . . so VERY true, indeed some of the suggestions above and elsewhere harp on about even higher shaft RPM's.  Your mind starts to create a picture . . .

Leather worker goes to his new DIY burnisher, switches it on and waits patiently for it to achieve terminal velocity . . then offers up his work.  WHOOSH!!!!  "jeez, where did my belt fly off to . . OH HELL . . where has the top of my finger gone to!!!"

I'm sure you'll agree with me there isn't anything wrong with the reasoning our compatriot's use, they have simply fallen under the spell of the salesman attempting to sell his "bespoke leather burnisher".  All they are doing is believing his blurb and trying to copy his machine . . which, if I may be unkind to say, is probably a cheap Chinese bench grinder with stickers attached.  Sorry.

The humble drill press, be it bench mounted or free standing, is a perfect machine for you to adapt . . and your work goes from side to side too which makes it easier to see the results . . and in between your use . . it drill's holes in wood and metal too!  :o

Remember peeps it's not about speed it's about friction as that creates heat which, with an application of wax to work edge and "slicking wheel", burns or cooks your leather edge in a VERY controlled manner.  My own drill press being towards the top end of the sizing range also has a VERY powerful motor . . so I can set easy to handle lower speeds and simply push a bit more to control the friction . . the "slicking wheel" barely slows down.

 . . . and remember the original "bespoke leather burnisher" was a bone slicker . . . previously our caveman handy-man used the crack in his partners arse! :crazy:

 . . . I must take some pix next time I'm using my "DIY Burnisher" . . NO! The drill press with slicker wheel and guides . . not my partners arse!

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I don't have a variable speed control.  I have an old drill press which changes speeds by moving a belt to a different pulley.  $50 at a garage sale- and it does NOTHING ELSE but burnish edges.  I'd "guess" it's running about 500 rpm turning a 3/4" (18mm-ish) wooden burnishing tool.

I actually do have one of those models the original guy mentioned, but it generally sits in the corner (though I have used the sander end a few times).  Variable speed, but far too fast even on "low".  The burnishing (2" dia) end looks purdy - which I guess is its main function.  Maybe I should dust it and keep it looking nice? :rofl:

Once I get moved, I should definitely look into a lathe. Seriously, a guy with a cnc lathe could make 5 of those "burnishing tools" while he's having lunch .. ;)

Truth is, the story "we" try to mimic may not have come from a salesman.  Much of what is done is created and perpetuated right here.  And that cheap stuff "with a sticker on it" only endures because the people using it have never used anything else.  A chevy feels pretty smooth to someone who's never driven the Mercedes ;)

 

 

 

Edited by JLSleather

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Thank you all for your help!

I tried going to power burnishing with a dremel a while back, but it vibrated way too much, even at very low speeds. I bought the burnisher from ebay, but maybe it was off center? I tried to reach out to see if that was the case and no luck.. Anyway, worried about a drill press wobbling off the work bench if the dremel shook that much - and when I came across the Weaver and Cobra, they seem sturdy enough to not do that. But I'll start looking into good drill presses! Home Depot or Online are really the only choices I have. If yall have a preferred model, please send along :)

 

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2 hours ago, JJDD said:

Thank you all for your help!

I tried going to power burnishing with a dremel a while back, but it vibrated way too much, even at very low speeds. I bought the burnisher from ebay, but maybe it was off center? I tried to reach out to see if that was the case and no luck.. Anyway, worried about a drill press wobbling off the work bench if the dremel shook that much - and when I came across the Weaver and Cobra, they seem sturdy enough to not do that. But I'll start looking into good drill presses! Home Depot or Online are really the only choices I have. If yall have a preferred model, please send along :)

 

If it wobbled it either it was off center or your dremel was worn out (bearings). 

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I mostly do smaller projects like wallets and handbags and use several Dremels with various wooden slicker heads. I have done this for the last five or six years now, on a daily basis, and never had any issues or problems. The reason why I use more than one Dremel is to let them cool and not to have to spend time changing between different sized slicker heads. Thus, I never had to exchange any either.

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True. Maybe just time to give another makers Dremel burnisher a try. Going to try to contact the maker about it again; looks like they sell a lot, maybe I just got the bad one in the bunch.

 

Thanks!

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Pro edge burnishers make some pretty pieces.

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I've been using a Pro Edge burnisher in a Dremel with good results.  I plan to upgrade to the drill press set up for better control and convenience .  A drill press is a great tool for many jobs not only does it drill it presses.  Look at Leodis Leather videos with arbor presses.  Much of this work can be done with the drill press turned off.  You could use the chuck to hold punches, rivet setters, hot stamps and other tools.

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I would stay with American made, I have one of those kits that I bought off another member her and it works great, I also have the drill press one that I made, the only problem with it is I can start to hear the bearings a little more as they are not made for side torque.  Bit my drill press is a HF so not good quality to start with. 

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1 hour ago, OLDNSLOW said:

I would stay with American made, I have one of those kits that I bought off another member her and it works great, I also have the drill press one that I made, the only problem with it is I can start to hear the bearings a little more as they are not made for side torque.  Bit my drill press is a HF so not good quality to start with. 

I was reading somewhere that a guy replaces his hf drill press about every other year. He's happy with that schedule.

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ya that would probably work, but I don't use it as much and looking into another sander as I use a sanding drum in it more now than burnishing.

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I was doing the Dremel and burnisher attachment method and it just wasn't resulting in a good edge. So this is what I ended up doing:

-3/4HP Dual Shaft Electric Motor ($60 on CL)

-WEN bench Grinder Stand ($35 from Amazon)

-Pro Edge Motor Burnisher ($45 from Amazon)

I wanted to buy the Cobra or Weaver, but couldn't justify $500+ when I could build one for less than $150.   This is what I end up with and it makes glass edges with saddle soap and water.  3450 rpm and no issues.  You would have to be a moron to injure yourself. 

 

Optimized-1485020982_tmp_0121170942.jpg

Edited by KeithHideWorks

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I use a HF wood lathe. Dad already had a couple in the wood/leather shop. I chucked in a 8" piece of 1" oak dowel and grabbed a turning chisel. Made me a few different width cuts in a U shape. Gave it a good sanding and walla a variable speed burnisher was born. If I need to turn something on the lathe, I simply would take the burnisher out and put it back when done. Also, I use water only to do my slicking. Comes out perfect every time and I am VERY picky on my edges!! Total cost to me..... $0 

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Hey does anyone have any advice on how to put together a canvas burnisher, for use on a drill press?

(links to what's needed / where to buy would be really helpful too! :)

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On 1/21/2017 at 10:08 AM, KeithHideWorks said:

You would have to be a moron to injure yourself. 

Keith I would still be careful, your using a 3/4HP motor with two unprotected shafts which can cause some serious injury. A simple mistake with the wrong clothing or a slip and ya can find yourself in a bad situation. 

Sure it may seem difficult to hurt yourself on these things but it can still happen. Not as easily as with say a buffing wheel but I personally would give it a little more respect.

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