Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Getting better. Stitching still sketchy. It's better with an stitching chisel but can't seem to get it with an awl. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie Q Report post Posted October 14, 2016 An over stitch wheel(space embossing wheel) will help on your spacing after you mark or groove your stitch line. Also you can use prickling irons to mark then. Keep at it, I"m still learning this art myself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 14, 2016 Do you have a stitch groover, or a creaser? Make an impression on both front and back (once it's trimmed even) and mark your stitches with either the punch or the wheel (I have never liked the punches and don't use them - I have the wheels) right in the groove. Then I suppose aguycould go watch hours and hours of videos, OR you could just stitch while remembering that if you do each stitch the same way, with the same materials and tools, then each stitch will look the same way. Tha's a nice holster design, by the way A bone folder, or wooden tool handle (like the back end of your edger, maybe) will help 'round' the holster without wrinkling. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 14, 2016 I used a scratch awl and a divider on the front to mark stitch lines. What I didn't mention was after glued together was worried made to small again so I wet formed BEFORE sewing. That did not work so gouda.lol. My awl is a Tandy one and it seems more round than it should be. The punch makes more angled holes. Did use a stitching wheel but nothing straight after formed before sewing. Live and learn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted October 15, 2016 Another thing or two I notice is ..... Sand your edges smooth and flat before marking the stitches (This will straighten those lines up). This is more of an educated guess, but maybe your thread is too large in relation to you stitches per inch. My own stuff had that crammed look until I got the right mix of awl, thread, spi, and needle size. The color and thread contrast look great. Hope this helps and keep having fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 15, 2016 21 hours ago, Mattsbagger said: was worried made to small again so I wet formed BEFORE sewing If you put the lines where they go, and use the correct weight of leather, that pattern will not give you a holster 'too small' (I've tested it a few hundred times; ). But it's intended to give you relatively sharp corners... indicative of the Glock "style". So yeah -- stitching after forming could be tough (but possible). By sharp corners, I mean this ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 15, 2016 Correct weight of leather might be an issue too.lol Thought I was buying 7/8 at tandy but it measures 10/12. First time got leather. Got some actual 7/8 now and gonna try again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 16, 2016 Yeah, that matters I know some people use my patterns, and where I used 7/8 some prefer 8/9. This is a small difference and can generally be allowed just by stitching on teh outside of the line ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cowboycolonel Report post Posted October 16, 2016 The first thing to do is sharpen that awl! It's amazing how much easier that makes stitching. Then follow up with armitage's video. Always use the same sequence when stitching: awl, back thread, top thread, pull tight. If you do it out of sequence, your stitching will show it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted October 16, 2016 Ah you wet formed first. I was wondering what happened because I have made a few using Jeff's pattern or his stitch lines and I know that gun should have been set down in that holster about another 1/2 inch. The bottom of the trigger guard should be right up on the stitch line and if you use Jeff's pattern as is the muzzle come right up on the end of the holster and the swoop by the mag catch is close to right up under the mag catch. Almost like the man knows what he is doing! Basically you got the pattern and stitching in the right spot you just needed to shove it down more. DId you already put finish .. maybe you can rewet it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted October 16, 2016 I do like 'em to sit in a bit, much as possible without obstructin' the draw. As a rule, I don't care for the "stiffener" reinforcement panel on pancakes with a middle seam... really isn't gaining much of anything there. It's when you wrap them around that they become useful. But, so many people are used to seein' em that I include 'em (usually) with a pattern. This one wraps a bit, so I used it there ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattsbagger Report post Posted October 16, 2016 I like the way it's sitting in the holster been wearing it for 2 days now. Conceals nice under just a t shirt. Draws and reholsters sweet. Looking at a pancake for my G19 I got a month ago (the Genesis of leather for me watched a Sam Andrews video a wanted to try that.) Other than his stitching machine lock stitch. And straight stitching.lol Mine ain't to far off his. $40 so not a high end holster but I am happy with a start at doing something I really enjoy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites