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Dwight

My Stuff is TOO STIFF

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36 minutes ago, TinkerTailor said:

Drop a couple clean ball bearings into the bottle and it helps get the settled portions broken up and distributed with the shaking. Come to think of it, even nuts and bolts would work. I just had a thought, If i built a holster for a dye bottle i could attach it to the handwheel of my machine so I get mixin with the stitchin......

I haven't used this for dyes, but for paint where the pigment settles out, I use good ol' fashioned BBs.  They work great and they are really cheap.  

 

16 minutes ago, Boriqua said:

oOOOooo nuts in the bottle is an AWESOME idea.

Hmmm.  Sounds like a product idea.  "New, from Ronco! 'Nuts in a Bottle'.  Shake 'em, stir 'em.  Make your paint and dye work for you instead of you working for them." $9.95 if you call in now.   But wait .. There's MORE.  We'll include the shaker holster for FREE is you call in now."

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oh man and if we could get the license rights to use "Message in a Bottle" by the Police!! yea you may be on to something. "Nuts in a bottle oh yea" .. I can hear him singing it now. :)

I have some 1/8 bb's for my slingshot which are admittedly to small for my slingshot but the Tandy pro water stain is pretty viscous and I am not sure that they would be heavy enough to mix it up. 1/4-20 nuts though seem to accumulate so I am sure I have a few new spares around to try. When the bottle is done wash em off and stick it in another color. I dont use a ton of the waterstain but the nuts will definitely help when I do.

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On 02/11/2016 at 5:10 AM, silverwingit said:

In my experience, one factor that has a big impact on how flexible the item is after finishing is how flexible it is before finishing. If I want a piece to be flexible I'll flex the heck out of it before I apply the final finish.

After the applications of neatsfoot oil and carnauba cream the grain surface is made pliable so that it won't be nearly so susceptible to cracking. I am then able to safely flex the leather through a fairly sharp angle.

 

This process is known as 'milling'. I've used this to great effect on veg tanned metalwork aprons, to give them some pliability, as they are useless when stiff as a board. The commercially milled leather is as soft as fabric, but mostly that would be too soft.

Nicely explained too.

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On 10/25/2016 at 0:17 PM, Colt W Knight said:

I thin MOP about 50/50 and airbrush it onto my soft purses. I like to do about 3-4 thin coats. You can tell when it starts to build up and stops soaking in, thats when I stop. Adds a bit of shine and nice protection that wont crack or gum up on the purses.

Newbie question. What's 50/50?

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50/50 = 50% of A plus 50% of B

can also be written 1:1, or 'equal amounts'

In the discussion earlier they are talking of thinning Resolene (a) with water (b), in equal amounts

Edited by fredk

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When you say you are being asked to make new & different, what are we talking about? Do you mean going from using 8-10 oz leather for holsters to making purses or something that requires a thinner leather to start out with? Hard to tell from your initial post, but make sure you are using the right leather for the job.

Also, remember that alcohol dries out the leather, so the more you use, the harder it is eventually going to get. If you want your leather to be soft & pliable, use a leather dressing, such as Pecards, to condition & preserve the leather. I do not know what it is you make, so I am just going off of generalizations, but the important thing is that you preserve the natural oils in the leather, otherwise it is bound to crack eventually. If you are not familiar with Pecards I suggest you google them. They make an excellent product. I have no involvement with them other than as a user of the product, so this is not a shill drumming up business for them.

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17 hours ago, fredk said:

50/50 = 50% of A plus 50% of B

can also be written 1:1, or 'equal amounts'

In the discussion earlier they are talking of thinning Resolene (a) with water (b), in equal amounts

Ah, gotcha, thanks :)

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