Small footprint cylinder bed machine table

[jacobkoski]

 I am building a custom table for my cylinder bed machine. A Pfaff 335.  I have a day and a half into the project and pictures will follow.     We have limited space and so a small footprint was required welding and woodwork was involved!

 

i have about a day and a half in this- less probably. All scrap or on hand material. What I haven't figured out yet: lifter foot actuator (we are thinking a knee operated lever) lighting, paint, maybe more ballast or outriggers for stability.

[TinkerTailor]

Than machine is heavy and will be wrecked if it takes a nose dive, plus you may be hurt. There is a reason cylinder arms are mounted on a long table or one with a heavy thick base and a small top. They are susceptible to toppling due to the machine sticking out. There are several base designs done by users on here for cylinder arms if you have a look around.

Outriggers are fine until you trip on them smashing your toe and spilling coffee all over the bench, or so i've heard....

Alot of cylinder arms have foot lift and not knee lifts for a couple reasons, Odd sized and shaped projects are what cylinder arms are good for but that means you will be holding work in weird positions sometimes. Knee lift don't work well if you are out of position and don't work at all if you are standing up. Foot pedals are available for cheap from most of the suppliers on the site, they are also easy to make. hot tip: troll thrift stores and craigslist for old bass drum pedals from drum kits....

As far as lighting, The Jansjo LED lamp at ikea is like 10 bux. These are super cheap, durable and can easily be taken apart and mounted to stuff, the base is removable.  Machinists mount them to lathes and milling machines for work lighting.  They work on 12volts dc, same as a car, so you can chain up 2 or 3 to a universal power supply from the electronic store.

 

 

Edited October 27, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[jacobkoski]

Great points!

The base I have used is 12" x 20". Not very large. It is 5/8" solid steel plate so its pretty heavy. I feel no issues with tipping left to right, but I may add a few inches in the front to back dimension (the 12") to offset a slight tippyness. I could, for example push the machine over with a medium shove. 

I appreciate the pedal input. I made on pedal already might as well figure out how to make another! Any thoughts on optimum sitting and standing heights for cylinder machines? Or typical heights? We mostly due small things (bags, purses, wallets) and imagine sitting a lot- I may add the ability to raise height if need be. As it is now it is about 37.5" to the feed dog from the floor.

Trying to get these pictures on....

[jacobkoski]

[TinkerTailor]

I didn't make my table, though it is modified. It is pretty much the same format as yours but adjustable. I have mine so standing the needle plate is around my belly button, and sitting on my stool it is the height of my armpits. Mileage may vary

One of the best and easiest things i did was mount a heavy duty power bar under the table, That way i can leave the motor on and turn all the lights and things on with one switch. Only one cord to the wall. This also allows the lights to stay on with the motor turned off to work on the machine. I hate when the machine only has lights wired into the switch. You are supposed to turn it off to change bobbins and needles and stuff but then you can't see........Not a bad idea to still have a light on the same switch as the motor so you can see if it is powered up visually for safety.

[brmax]

Good build there, solid.

Looks ready for scissors, seam ripper, drawer if you can find one.

That's a great idea on the lights, Since I picked up a small led it comes on with the machine and the big light has its own switch.

I was able to mount one of them galvanized electric handy box below for junction and then 1 wire out to the wall plug, took awhile.

again great job

Floyd

[dikman]

That is what I would call a minimalist table!

[jacobkoski]

I added 3" plate steel to base to make overall dimensions 15 x 20

Added foot pedal for lifter (thanks for this recommendation) using mountain bike brake cable and housing

Painted- 

added beautiful flat bed attachment from UWE http://www.ebay.com/usr/uwe?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

I am very happy with its stability and footprint. Now I need to get rid of old table : (

The next four pictures show the cable routing for lifter foot

 

Edited October 28, 2016 by jacobkoski

[MADMAX22]

Nicely done. 

[shoepatcher]

Man, that looks nice!  Great job on the table.  Might consider making them to sell?

glenn

[Daniel G]

Love this table. Well done!

[Yetibelle]

I wish I had that kinda "scrap" lying around.  That looks great! 

 

 

[GPaudler]

Yes, very nicely done! I made similarly minimal pedestals for my cylinder bed machines - Singer 29-4, older Pfaff 335 and Adler 105. Each different, but you asked about height: I made them so that the needle plate on the cylinder beds is at the same height as the needle plates of my flat bed machines. That way one chair height works everywhere and the cylinder machines are less top-heavy than they would otherwise be.

Having that common, relatively low, height also allows me to have a single supplemental table that I can roll up to any of the machines when I need some flat-beddedness.

[TinkerTailor]

13 hours ago, GPaudler said:

Yes, very nicely done! I made similarly minimal pedestals for my cylinder bed machines - Singer 29-4, older Pfaff 335 and Adler 105. Each different, but you asked about height: I made them so that the needle plate on the cylinder beds is at the same height as the needle plates of my flat bed machines. That way one chair height works everywhere and the cylinder machines are less top-heavy than they would otherwise be.

Having that common, relatively low, height also allows me to have a single supplemental table that I can roll up to any of the machines when I need some flat-beddedness.

I like my cylinder arm higher, closer to eye height if i use my flatbed chair,  for one main reason. I have a cylinder arm for sewing bags and other odd shaped sewing jobs. When I am doing a bag gusset, for instance, I stitch with the face of the bag up to get a nicer stitch on the more visible side. This leaves the gusset to wander around underneath there if I am not careful.   I frequently have my head up under the arm making sure the hidden layers of a bag are co-operating on the underside. It would be a struggle if the machine was lower. I have a taller stool just for that machine as well for normal sewing of belts and such.

[chuckgaudette]

I'm totally sold on UWE's flat bed attachment. On or off in seconds. Rock solid.

[ConnieMFL]

Size drives what I can have in my sewing room and this is absolutely perfect.  Have you considered making these tables for sale?  I want a heavier machine, but I have no room for it.  I could certainly negotiate some open space for this setup!  Well done!  I'm serious about the selling question!  

[DrmCa]

You know the meaning of overkill! Great work.