Members jacobkoski Posted October 27, 2016 Members Report Posted October 27, 2016 I am building a custom table for my cylinder bed machine. A Pfaff 335. I have a day and a half into the project and pictures will follow. We have limited space and so a small footprint was required welding and woodwork was involved! i have about a day and a half in this- less probably. All scrap or on hand material. What I haven't figured out yet: lifter foot actuator (we are thinking a knee operated lever) lighting, paint, maybe more ballast or outriggers for stability. Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted October 27, 2016 Members Report Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) Than machine is heavy and will be wrecked if it takes a nose dive, plus you may be hurt. There is a reason cylinder arms are mounted on a long table or one with a heavy thick base and a small top. They are susceptible to toppling due to the machine sticking out. There are several base designs done by users on here for cylinder arms if you have a look around. Outriggers are fine until you trip on them smashing your toe and spilling coffee all over the bench, or so i've heard.... Alot of cylinder arms have foot lift and not knee lifts for a couple reasons, Odd sized and shaped projects are what cylinder arms are good for but that means you will be holding work in weird positions sometimes. Knee lift don't work well if you are out of position and don't work at all if you are standing up. Foot pedals are available for cheap from most of the suppliers on the site, they are also easy to make. hot tip: troll thrift stores and craigslist for old bass drum pedals from drum kits.... As far as lighting, The Jansjo LED lamp at ikea is like 10 bux. These are super cheap, durable and can easily be taken apart and mounted to stuff, the base is removable. Machinists mount them to lathes and milling machines for work lighting. They work on 12volts dc, same as a car, so you can chain up 2 or 3 to a universal power supply from the electronic store. Edited October 27, 2016 by TinkerTailor Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members jacobkoski Posted October 27, 2016 Author Members Report Posted October 27, 2016 Great points! The base I have used is 12" x 20". Not very large. It is 5/8" solid steel plate so its pretty heavy. I feel no issues with tipping left to right, but I may add a few inches in the front to back dimension (the 12") to offset a slight tippyness. I could, for example push the machine over with a medium shove. I appreciate the pedal input. I made on pedal already might as well figure out how to make another! Any thoughts on optimum sitting and standing heights for cylinder machines? Or typical heights? We mostly due small things (bags, purses, wallets) and imagine sitting a lot- I may add the ability to raise height if need be. As it is now it is about 37.5" to the feed dog from the floor. Trying to get these pictures on.... Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted October 27, 2016 Members Report Posted October 27, 2016 I didn't make my table, though it is modified. It is pretty much the same format as yours but adjustable. I have mine so standing the needle plate is around my belly button, and sitting on my stool it is the height of my armpits. Mileage may vary One of the best and easiest things i did was mount a heavy duty power bar under the table, That way i can leave the motor on and turn all the lights and things on with one switch. Only one cord to the wall. This also allows the lights to stay on with the motor turned off to work on the machine. I hate when the machine only has lights wired into the switch. You are supposed to turn it off to change bobbins and needles and stuff but then you can't see........Not a bad idea to still have a light on the same switch as the motor so you can see if it is powered up visually for safety. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members brmax Posted October 28, 2016 Members Report Posted October 28, 2016 Good build there, solid. Looks ready for scissors, seam ripper, drawer if you can find one. That's a great idea on the lights, Since I picked up a small led it comes on with the machine and the big light has its own switch. I was able to mount one of them galvanized electric handy box below for junction and then 1 wire out to the wall plug, took awhile. again great job Floyd Quote
Members dikman Posted October 28, 2016 Members Report Posted October 28, 2016 That is what I would call a minimalist table! Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members jacobkoski Posted October 28, 2016 Author Members Report Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) I added 3" plate steel to base to make overall dimensions 15 x 20 Added foot pedal for lifter (thanks for this recommendation) using mountain bike brake cable and housing Painted- added beautiful flat bed attachment from UWE http://www.ebay.com/usr/uwe?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 I am very happy with its stability and footprint. Now I need to get rid of old table : ( The next four pictures show the cable routing for lifter foot Edited October 28, 2016 by jacobkoski Quote
Members shoepatcher Posted October 31, 2016 Members Report Posted October 31, 2016 Man, that looks nice! Great job on the table. Might consider making them to sell? glenn Quote
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