CodeJockey Report post Posted January 2, 2009 I'm completely new to leather working, so I apologize up front for the beginner questions. I've been wanting to get into it for some time, and so I asked for the tools to get me started for Christmas. Anyway, yesterday I took two pieces of leather (4-5oz) veg tanned leather. I cut and then glued them together, and then stitched them. My stitches came out very well, but the problem I ran into was trying to get my stitch holes consistent. Spacing wasn't as much the issue (I used one of those stitch wheels) as depth of the awl when punching the holes. Since the awl blade tapers, some were way too big while others weren't big enough. Can' y'all provide some insight into how best to accomplish this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted January 2, 2009 I use and old wood cutting board (not to hard, not too soft) under the leather when stabbing holes and I just push the awl until there's enough resistence from the board and so I get my holes about the same in diameter. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted January 2, 2009 I'm using an Osborne awl with the CS042-1 1/2 awl blade. I stab it through all the way. All the same size, none seem too big. This is at 6 spi. If you are going for finer stitches this may not work. I'm still a beginner so take this with a grain of salt. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CodeJockey Report post Posted January 2, 2009 I'm using an Osborne awl with the CS042-1 1/2 awl blade. I stab it through all the way. All the same size, none seem too big. This is at 6 spi. If you are going for finer stitches this may not work.I'm still a beginner so take this with a grain of salt. Dan I tried to find an example of that. I looked at Tandy Leather Factory online and at the CSOsborne site. All I could find still showed that the awl was tapered. But I'm sure I'm just not looking at the right thing. Here is the link at CS Osborne's site: CS Osborne Site Here's the link to the only Osborne stitching awl I could find at Tandy: Osborne Stitching Awl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tat2 Report post Posted January 2, 2009 I'm completely new to leather working, so I apologize up front for the beginner questions. I've been wanting to get into it for some time, and so I asked for the tools to get me started for Christmas. Anyway, yesterday I took two pieces of leather (4-5oz) veg tanned leather. I cut and then glued them together, and then stitched them. My stitches came out very well, but the problem I ran into was trying to get my stitch holes consistent. Spacing wasn't as much the issue (I used one of those stitch wheels) as depth of the awl when punching the holes. Since the awl blade tapers, some were way too big while others weren't big enough. Can' y'all provide some insight into how best to accomplish this? Hi, do you have any pictures of what oyur talking about? Are you using a stitch awl? Id so the tool is mainlying use for emergency repair, as due to stabbing the leather you do get the hols not all lined up. When doing hand stiching I used a diamond awl to first make the holes. THen use two blunt needles sewing one hole ata time in a in and out manner . Its called called a cobbler stitich. super strong. ifyou look the sewing motion online you'll see what Im talking about. SOC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) Pushing your awl through to the same depth consistantly every time will come with practice. Also you need to have the correct size blade in relation to the thread/needles your using. Once the blade is inserted into the haft to the correct depth, get a wad of scrap leather. I use a wad from a punch of the same size as my awls ferrule. Push this wad onto the blade up to the ferrule. This will act sort of as a spacer and also stop you marring the leather with the ferrule if you push in to far. This works like a carpenter wrapping tape around a drill bit. You drill til up to the tape depth. Same depth everytime. Barra. Edited January 2, 2009 by barra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CodeJockey Report post Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) I use and old wood cutting board (not to hard, not too soft) under the leather when stabbing holes and I just push the awl until there's enough resistence from the board and so I get my holes about the same in diameter.Tom I'm using an Osborne awl with the CS042-1 1/2 awl blade. I stab it through all the way. All the same size, none seem too big. This is at 6 spi. If you are going for finer stitches this may not work.I'm still a beginner so take this with a grain of salt. Dan I bought a kit from Tandy Leather. It included wax, thread, needles, a stitching awl with 4 awl blades, and a book by Al Stohlman on how to hand-stitch. I was following his instructions. Only thing is, I'm having a very hard time getting consistently sized holes. I'm assuming this will get better with more practice; however, it seems very inconsistent to me. Edited January 2, 2009 by CodeJockey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) First thing is to look at your awl blade. It's probably too big for consistent stitches. Once you've got a decent awl, next step is to maintain the same angle when stabbing the holes. If you have to put the awl down, then use the last hole stabbed to re-align your awl to the proper angle. Here's a sample of awl sizes. The holes are rather carelessly punched, but you get the size idea. As you can see the Tandy's are WAY too large for fine handstitching. Peter's blade and Bob Douglas' blade are perfect and essential for perfect stitching. You can also get good results with the osborne, but stay away from the Tandy ones. Especially the ones that come in the 4 in 1 pack. Peter and Bob's blades are only tapered at the very tip, so the rest of the awl blade is the proper width. To regulate the depth of a blade, punch out some washers of skirting leather and stack them on you blade this way they act as a stopper. Edited January 2, 2009 by Rawhide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CodeJockey Report post Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) First thing is to look at your awl blade. It's probably too big for consistent stitches. Once you've got a decent awl, next step is to maintain the same angle when stabbing the holes. If you have to put the awl down, then use the last hole stabbed to re-align your awl to the proper angle.Here's a sample of awl sizes. The holes are rather carelessly punched, but you get the size idea. As you can see the Tandy's are WAY too large for fine handstitching. Peter's blade and Bob Douglas' blade are perfect and essential for perfect stitching. You can also get good results with the osborne, but stay away from the Tandy ones. Especially the ones that come in the 4 in 1 pack. Peter and Bob's blades are only tapered at the very tip, so the rest of the awl blade is the proper width. To regulate the depth of a blade, punch out some washers of skirting leather and stack them on you blade this way they act as a stopper. Thank you very much! That is exactly the information I was looking for. Using the tandy awl blades some would look kind of like the smaller ones you had, but alot of the times I would end up with big holes like you had for Tandy in your picture. I guess the next step is to order one of those other stitching awls! I really appreciate the pic, as that made it much more clear as to what I need to do. Edited January 2, 2009 by CodeJockey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 2, 2009 Thank you very much! That is exactly the information I was looking for. Using the tandy awl blades some would look kind of like the smaller ones you had, but alot of the times I would end up with big holes like you had for Tandy in your picture. I guess the next step is to order one of those other stitching awls! I really appreciate the pic, as that made it much more clear as to what I need to do. You're welcome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CodeJockey Report post Posted January 2, 2009 You're welcome. One last question? Where would I find the Peter Main awl? I've tried googling it and searching here but can't find anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 2, 2009 One last question? Where would I find the Peter Main awl? I've tried googling it and searching here but can't find anything. You'll have to email him. He's a member here, but go to his website www.petermain.com and he's got an email set up there. I think I paid 38 total for the blade and handle. Don't pass out when you see his beautiful works of art. Make sure you tell him Marlon sent you. (if you still can't catch him, send me a pm and I'll see if I can catch him.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westtxcowboy1979 Report post Posted January 3, 2009 I use a dermel tool with a small drill bit for holes when I need to hand stitch. You might give it a try it works for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 3, 2009 I use a dermel tool with a small drill bit for holes when I need to hand stitch. You might give it a try it works for me. I tried this once on a briefcase made out of saddle skirting. The holes inside of the gussets were all over the place. I couldn't keep it straight for sh#+ For me, I'll stick with the awl and leave the dremel to evening up the edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted January 3, 2009 I use a dermel tool with a small drill bit for holes when I need to hand stitch. You might give it a try it works for me. Drill bits remove leather, awls push it aside. Drilled holes won't close up like stabbed holes will. I tried it too. Fingers don't close up as well either. I'm PMing Peter on this.....Marlon, you forgot something when discussing the different awl sizes- Modify! File the blade down to the size you need! I bought a second Osborne, stacked up the leather washers, and hit the diamond sharpener (flat) to reduce the size of the exposed blade. The net result is that if I remove all the washers, I have a stepped awl. Still, a little whittlin' and it's punching holes similar to the small end of the Bob Douglas awl holes (as seen in your pic). I won't even try to discuss the steel used, but I think Bob Douglas uses better materials- otherwise, everyone would just buy the cheap ones and file them down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monticore Report post Posted January 3, 2009 i was thinking of using a speedsticher/stiching awl without thread to punch my holes and then hand stitch . would that work or do you need the angled/diamond shape to avoid tearing etc.. also when using an awl do you use the groover or mark the backside to keep your lines straight? i am still finding better results using thinging chisel(the smallest size) are giving me the best results for my watch straps. cory Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 3, 2009 The speed stitcher is really for repairing stitches. Plus you'll have a hard time punching the holes with it vs. a sharpened diamond shaped awl. I guess I'm just partial to the look of the diamond holes and how the stitch lays when there done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monticore Report post Posted January 3, 2009 i just need a better awl i guess using the tandy one( . cory Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TrooperChuck Report post Posted January 4, 2009 Marlon, thanks for posting that picture! Seeing the different sized awl holes was a real eye-opener! I enjoy hand stitching and have done okay with Tandy-quality awls, but now I'm thinking I need to get myself a Peter Main awl, or modify one of my existing awls. I learn so much from this forum, and its FREE!!!! Wow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 4, 2009 Marlon, thanks for posting that picture! Seeing the different sized awl holes was a real eye-opener! I enjoy hand stitching and have done okay with Tandy-quality awls, but now I'm thinking I need to get myself a Peter Main awl, or modify one of my existing awls.I learn so much from this forum, and its FREE!!!! Wow! You're welcome. You know no one here knows it all, but with the collection of great minds and artisans here, there's nothing we can't accomplish. Also, don't discount the Osborne awls. They do have their place. They do require some sharpening, but they are easy to sharpen and hold an edge for a long time. But for a ready to go blade and use of smaller cord, you can't beat Bob's or Peter's blades. One note, Peter's blade comes with the haft. Bob's doesn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott1952 Report post Posted January 4, 2009 Here I sit, just reading and learning...can't be beat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
338uwm Report post Posted January 7, 2009 You'll have to email him. He's a member here, but go to his website www.petermain.com and he's got an email set up there. I think I paid 38 total for the blade and handle. Don't pass out when you see his beautiful works of art. Make sure you tell him Marlon sent you. (if you still can't catch him, send me a pm and I'll see if I can catch him.) I just sent him an email through his site. I cann't wait to get hold of him and throw the tandy awls in the scrap bin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billy P Report post Posted January 7, 2009 What size needles would you use with the Osborne, Bob's, Peter's? Also thread sizes? Thanks Billy P Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 7, 2009 What size needles would you use with the Osborne, Bob's, Peter's? Also thread sizes? Thanks Billy P Billy, right now I am using the 000 needles tandy sells, but I've been looking for some 004's that are a little smaller in diameter. the 000's are great needles, but just a little tight when using theses small blades. Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbsleatherworks Report post Posted January 7, 2009 If I can add something, I use the Tandy stitcher alot also for small stuff. When I used it for the first time I learned quickly that the needle isnt stiff enough to stay straight when punching the holes. I next moved to a simple ice pick that I sharpened, then used a plastic cutting board under it while pushing straight down. The plastic boards wont allow the awl to sink into it so the depth of the awl stays constant, as well as the hole diameter. A good awl like Marlon said is worth it. The handle of an true awl is surely safer to put your weight on than a simple ice pick. Someone asked about a groover...by using one, the stitch falls lower into the leather hiding very slight imperfections. Leaving a slightly cleaner looking stitch. It also protects the thread from abrasion and wear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites