badluckleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I'm having trouble with my design not fitting correctly. There is a gap at the top forward of the holster where it wraps around the hip instead of following around snuggly. Any ideas on where adjustmentshe need to be made? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted December 24, 2016 from my experience and looking at the pictures.....The leading wing is too short for the position you are wearing it in and your "geometry".at the hip bone.. and the serious cant of the pistol will make it hard for a "wrap around" the hip. it may work back at 4-5 o'clock or forward at more of a appendix carry where you are "flatter". The pattern will need to be mocked up against you side and if it is going to work out wear you wear it and with that cant. If it will work out. All that aside it is nice looking holster and I haven't seen those belt clips before. Where are they sourced? Hope this is of some use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I am by no means an expert but using Kydex parts with a leather holster I think is up there with one of the greater sins a leather worker could make. I would take those off and use leather straps that will help cure that problem. And from the looks of it your stitch line along the top rail is nonexistent, not sure if you drew It up that way, it is a nice looking holster in spite of the few errors that I see, but again that is just my opinion. Search the site for pancake holsters both IWB and OWB and you'll see what I am taking about, If you still want to use kydex clips for the IWB I would choose a different style clip. Also as a thought go back and post some photos of the back and sides of the build, Hope I added a little that you can take away and use and look at other builds here on the board Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted December 24, 2016 From what I can see of the top edge it does need some work, just like the edges of a dex holster there is a technique for finishing the edges of a holster. With dex they use buffing wheels to achieve a proper edge, I still struggle with mine, sometimes they are great other times not so great some times it is the leather, other times it is the worker and nothing works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 You're asking that rig to "come around" in the front, but that sittch line is a stress concentration point, causing it to bend at what has become its weak point. Now... how to fix ... If'n it was me, I'd try adding a stitch line (which I think is where Ron was going with it) PLUS swapping those "clips" for one another. Meaning put the front one on the back and the back one on the front. Which it would seem would work better on an IWB anyway Lemme see kin I mock up a pic... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 ADD STITCH LINE (NO NEED TO GO ALL THE WAY DOWN HERE) AND THEN SWAP THE CLIPS USING SAME HOLES Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badluckleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 3 hours ago, plinkercases said: from my experience and looking at the pictures.....The leading wing is too short for the position you are wearing it in and your "geometry".at the hip bone.. and the serious cant of the pistol will make it hard for a "wrap around" the hip. it may work back at 4-5 o'clock or forward at more of a appendix carry where you are "flatter". The pattern will need to be mocked up against you side and if it is going to work out wear you wear it and with that cant. If it will work out. All that aside it is nice looking holster and I haven't seen those belt clips before. Where are they sourced? Hope this is of some use. Yes it fits just fine on the back and appendix. My thought was the front wing is to short as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badluckleather Report post Posted December 24, 2016 3 hours ago, OLDNSLOW said: I am by no means an expert but using Kydex parts with a leather holster I think is up there with one of the greater sins a leather worker could make. I would take those off and use leather straps that will help cure that problem. And from the looks of it your stitch line along the top rail is nonexistent, not sure if you drew It up that way, it is a nice looking holster in spite of the few errors that I see, but again that is just my opinion. Search the site for pancake holsters both IWB and OWB and you'll see what I am taking about, If you still want to use kydex clips for the IWB I would choose a different style clip. Also as a thought go back and post some photos of the back and sides of the build, Hope I added a little that you can take away and use and look at other builds here on the board Noted in the stitch. I can get some more pics. I'm just the opposite I hate the leather straps. The clips are fromany Multi Holster. 3 hours ago, OLDNSLOW said: From what I can see of the top edge it does need some work, just like the edges of a dex holster there is a technique for finishing the edges of a holster. With dex they use buffing wheels to achieve a proper edge, I still struggle with mine, sometimes they are great other times not so great some times it is the leather, other times it is the worker and nothing works. It's just a prototype the edges have not been touched. 2 hours ago, JLSleather said: ADD STITCH LINE (NO NEED TO GO ALL THE WAY DOWN HERE) AND THEN SWAP THE CLIPS USING SAME HOLES Shouldn't be to hard to accomplish. It's a prototype so I will give it a try. Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bolt Vanderhuge Report post Posted December 25, 2016 You can see that in your pic the bending of the wing starts at the sweat shield. So along with moving the stitch line, trim the sweat shield to the base of the rear sight. Let the sight hang out free from the leather. It still won't touch you. This will let it start bending right after the gun. Also pre bend it during forming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted December 25, 2016 You are basically throwing a pancake IWB. IWB and OWB holsters have to do different things. IWB needs to flex more. And the solid form of that is not letting it flex. OWB does not need to flex as much, and that's why that style works OWB. It's also to big overall. Bigger is not always better, even though there are a lot of IWB holsters out there with large footprints. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badluckleather Report post Posted January 6, 2017 Thank you for your replies. After trimming the sweatime shield, adjusting the stitch line, and making a relief cut and the bend point I've come to the conclusion it's the cant that is causing my issue. I will rework this design and hopefully that will be the fix. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bolt Vanderhuge Report post Posted January 8, 2017 I have made 30* canted IWB holsters that do not have that issue. It should not be the cant that is the problem. If the leather is too dry and hard once finished it can cause this issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites