FIEBING'S professional oil dye the question

[bagzy]

1.       I made leather belt. I dyed it with FIEBING'S professional oil dye. After 24 hours I protected it with TAN-KOTE. Every step before next step I dried well.

But: the dye leaves a trails on the trousers (dye stains on the fabric). Why? What I am doing wrong?

What about alcohol based dye? What's the difference between FIEBING'S professional oil dye and FIEBING'S leather dye (= alcohol based) ?  Does FIEBING'S leather dye also leaves a trails?

[bikermutt07]

Was it usmc black?

Professional oil dyes are also spirit dyes. They are used the same way.

Oil dye is some mystical term that fiebings uses that nobody really has any information on, but they are spirit dyes.

They just seem to be of higher quality.

If you used usmc black there are horror stories all over this site talking about how hard it is to buff out excess.

[Dwight]

51 minutes ago, bagzy said:

1.       I made leather belt. I dyed it with FIEBING'S professional oil dye. After 24 hours I protected it with TAN-KOTE. Every step before next step I dried well.

 

But: the dye leaves a trails on the trousers (dye stains on the fabric). Why? What I am doing wrong?

 

What about alcohol based dye? What's the difference between FIEBING'S professional oil dye and FIEBING'S leather dye (= alcohol based) ?  Does FIEBING'S leather dye also leaves a trails?

 

Bagsy, I use the professional oil dye in just about all I do, . . . which is mostly belts and holsters.  It is all reduced 50 / 50.  

I also dip dye, . . . none of this dauber or sponge routine, . . . down into the dye, . . . check to see it is thoroughly covered (takes about 3 seconds), . . . pull it out, . . . pat off puddles or streams of dye, . . . holsters I lay on their backs for 20 minutes, . . . go on top edge for 5 minutes, . . . then flipped to bottom edge for next 15 minutes, . . . hang em up to dry.

Item 1 to remember:  buff it, . . . then buff it again, . . . if it is black, . . . yeah, again, . . .  and don't be passive on the buff, . . . put some elbow grease into it, . . . and if you are not getting unused pigment, . . . you are not buffing hard enough.

Item 2 I am not a user of tan coat, . . . much prefer Resolene, . . . 

I have only had one problem with dye coming off, . . . a shoulder holster that i used USMC black and Bag Kote on.  Haven't used that combination since.

May God bless,

Dwight

[klaykrusher]

1 hour ago, bikermutt07 said:

Was it usmc black?

Like you said, that's that wonderful Fiebing's oil dye color that keeps on giving....even when you pray it will stop. 

2 hours ago, bagzy said:

1.       I made leather belt. I dyed it with FIEBING'S professional oil dye. After 24 hours I protected it with TAN-KOTE. Every step before next step I dried well.

But: the dye leaves a trails on the trousers (dye stains on the fabric). Why? What I am doing wrong?

What about alcohol based dye? What's the difference between FIEBING'S professional oil dye and FIEBING'S leather dye (= alcohol based) ?  Does FIEBING'S leather dye also leaves a trails?

 

bagzy, the Pro Oil Dye is specially formulated by Fiebing's to work better with Veg Tan leather.  As Dwight said, once dried, you have to buff it to make sure you remove as much of the dye that did not penetrate the hide as you can.  A white t-shirt will let you know when you got most of it.  I have tried Bag-Kote, and was not too happy with the results, but that is probably because of me, not the product.  I also use resolene, diluted 50/50 with water or mop-n-glo, 50/50 as the finish coat.  I usually apply 3 coats, letting it dry for an hour between coats.  This has worked well, and has not left stain marks.

Edited January 3, 2017 by klaykrusher
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[NVLeatherWorx]

I have been using the Pro Oil Dye's since they first came out and have never even diluted them as I want the full cover and effect the first time.  Regardless of the method used to apply the dye though there is one thing that applies to ALL dyes/stains/Antiques:  buff the living you know what out of the leather and make sure that you are really getting to it.  If you ain't sweatin' you ain't buffin' hard enough.  Once I get mine down to where there is barely a color change to a white cloth I take a very tight celled sponge and dampen it, then I wipe the leather off with that sponge to make sure that any final pigment dust (the base product to Pixie dust) is removed and then I let it sit for another 8 hours just to make sure that it has dried.  I apply my top coating and let it set for 24 hours and then we are done.  Never use these dyes as an edge finish unless you plan on applying the same buffing, etc. to the edges and then sealing them with something as well, and never, ever do the back side of a belt unless you have a couple of days to give up just trying to get it buffed and cleaned and sealed because the flesh side will make it a tough gamble.