Singer 111W155, lack of reverse a major negative?

[MikeC5]

I'm new here and have done a lot of reading through this forum.  A lot of good information is available for sure.  I haven't any experience sewing leather but am wanting to learn and have a good 1st project: reupholstering the seats on an antique automobile.  The photos are what I'll be trying to replicate.  I don't know the weight of the leather yet but I know it will be nowhere near 1/4".  I'm also planning to use the machine for doing the canvas top.  Since budget is important, I'm looking at good used machines and the 111W155 seems to be well thought of, fairly common and good parts availability.  My question is will the lack of reverse be a significant disadvantage to a hobbyist user?  I'm not worried about production speed so hand sewing to lock the seam ends doesn't seem like a huge deal.  Are there any other machines in this $500 price range that I also might consider?

[Tejas]

As for lack of reverse, here are four ways to mitigate lack of reverse for back-tack. At the start and end of a run:
1. Turn the material end for end and sew over the seam. The result is the same as a back-tack but not always practical for large projects.
2. Sew to the end of the run. Lift the foot slightly pull the material about 1/2 inch toward you, drop the foot and sew over the seam.
3. At each end of the run, leave several inches of thread. Tug the thread on the under-side and pull the top-thread through. Tie off the two threads with a surgeon's knot. A square knot can be used, but a surgeon's knot is more secure.
4. Same as above, but leave even longer threads. Do not pull through. Thread a needle on each and sew several stitches through the same holes in the seam. A hassle, but the resulting back-tack should be more secure than a machine back-tack.

There are situations where reverse can very useful, such a sewing around for some reason fairly far inboard from the edge of the material, such as a ppatch, but that can also be done by a combination of maneuvers similar to and including the manual back-tack described above. Another use is the ability to position the needle for a single, shorter stitch, such as at the end of a run.

I started with a Singer 111W155 and really liked it.

Edited January 6, 2017 by Tejas

[MADMAX22]

The 111w155 will do that stuff perfectly fine and the lack of reverse is a little bit of a hassle but is easily put up with. 

One thing I would suggest is dont rule out other machines. That kind of upholstery can be done a multitude of machines 211g, pfaff 145/545/1245, international 300, way more than I can think of but there are a ton that were designed for similar work. The 111w is a nice one just dont pass up a good deal on another suitable machine if it happens to come your way. Now finding them in todays market for $500 can be a crap shoot. Pretty much any of the industrial walking foot machines people think are good plated so..... 

Another thing is some of the cylinder arms would work as well if you built a work surface to act as a flat bed, occasionally you can find deals on them as well. 

Only thing I would think about is are you going to do any piping? Also doing the pleated seat cushions can be a little bit of a pain just because of the cushion portion getting hung up on the feet so be mindful of clearance of the machine. 

[MikeC5]

Thanks Max and Tejas.  I will keep an eye out for those other suggested machines.  As for the pleats, I suspect the photos I posted may have foam helping to puff out the pleats.  The original upholstery was burlap wrap on the springs, then horse hair and then cotton.  The leather cover does not have any padding material stitched into it.  I do have the remnants of the original, mouse eaten stuff from my car.  I'm not sure if horse hair is still available but I am planning to keep things as original as possible.

[Tulsaman]

Mike

  Do yourself a favor and get a better machine.... spend a little more money and get a reverse and newer model. They are so much better and had for less then $1000...you can get a larger bobbin,easy to change stitch length dial,presser foot adjustment..not to mention not worn down... take your time and look around... It's an investment and will hold value for when you want to sell. And it will do a good job for you... 

Edited January 9, 2017 by Tulsaman

[MADMAX22]

I wouldnt say less than $1000, more like $1200-1500 after shipping, can get the 1206 for $1000 before shipping, the 206rb is $1300 before shipping. Yeah the 206rb5 would be a good investment and is suppose to be a nice machine but thats almost a $1000 over budget when counting in shipping. 

If you find a decent 111 or 211g or a 145 or something similar that still has some good life left you can do alot of projects with it and turn around and sell it recouping most of the cost when the money is there to upgrade. 

He also pointed out that budget is "important". 

[LumpenDoodle2]

I do a little bit of upholstery myself, and just to say that getting horsehair (really horsehair and 'other' animal hair) for stuffing isn't too difficult, but not cheap.

Coir, and/or nylon synthetic does the job as good, if not better, lasts longer, and is a cheaper, but 'authentic' upholstery alternative.     

 

[Yetibelle]

I love the 111W155, it is my favorite machine, however I do miss reverse.  It didn't bother me at first not having reverse, but it would be nice now. 
 

[Uwe]

If you're gonna be all period correct with real horse hair mats for padding, you really should consider sewing with a true vintage sewing machine, and those didn't have reverse back then. Two generations managed to sew without reverse, and they did just fine. 

Edited January 11, 2017 by Uwe