Bought a Singer 211U567B Need Help With Drip Pan

[shoepatcher]

C,

The 212 rebuild looks fabulous!!.  Great job.

glenn

[Wizcrafts]

When I acquired a 31-15 and table that lacked an oil drip pan, I made one out of Naugahyde and stapled it to the edges of the cutout in the table. I cut a hole for the knee lever lifter. The material side faces up and absorbs oil.

[Kellen]

So here are some better pictures of my machine. I've been reading through several manuals trying to figure out the oiling process. The picture from the manual below seems to be the closest to mine. As far as filling the reservoir, my machine does not have a sight glass as indicated in the picture nor do I see the oil filler hole for the saddle reservoir. What do you think? 

 

 

Edited January 11, 2017 by Kellen

[brmax]

Nice! big bobbin machine it looks like.

I would take some dry air psi. or heavy paint brush and clean up the area around the saddle and hook area first very well.

Then take off the top with the few screws retaining it to have a look see, Just where oiling is best or most useful. Maybe a engineers manual somewhere vs ops may help.

The saddle gear box has parts for best oiling methods but with the usual slow sewing we may do sometimes a bit more oil splash may be a good plan. For the time being cleaning the areas mentioned, some good old towels on the bench will work just fine until the drip pan arrives, or you construct one. good luck it looks great

Floyd

[Wizcrafts]

From your recent photos, your machine is manually oiled. All of the holes with red dye need oil, as well as some that have lost the red dye. Oil after each use and place a cheap rag under the feet to absorb dripping oil. Put a rag on top of the foot pedal until your oil pan is constructed. Use white Lily oil sold by industrial sewing machine dealers (in quarts and refillable 4oz bottles). In an emergency you can buy 4 oz bottles of sewing machine oil at Joann's, Hobby Lobby, or Wally World.

[Kellen]

11 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

From your recent photos, your machine is manually oiled. All of the holes with red dye need oil, as well as some that have lost the red dye. Oil after each use and place a cheap rag under the feet to absorb dripping oil. Put a rag on top of the foot pedal until your oil pan is constructed. Use white Lily oil sold by industrial sewing machine dealers (in quarts and refillable 4oz bottles). In an emergency you can buy 4 oz bottles of sewing machine oil at Joann's, Hobby Lobby, or Wally World.

The confusing part is that looking at the machine from the bottom, it has all the oil tubes which would indicate that it's self oiling. 

[brmax]

Yes that's a good eye there, and one of them older quality things on some machines. Though some do have a different pump and stuff like lines or splash directed designs. On many of these we see you can find the "wick" kind of material is housed in these lines/tube as on that. Again many don't have the old world type yours has rather clear tubing, some lasting forever other clears last maybe a decade. Another good reason to take a look at the top for wick and any oil pads and their conditions. I believe you could say the pump on this one is small and really keyed for the hook shaft assembly lubrication. With some old trusted wick ability for lube other places like some bearing/bushing journals so a good opportunity to find the reservoirs for these wicks they work well, imo.

good day there

Floyd

Edited January 12, 2017 by brmax

[Constabulary]

My 212 even has wick tubes made of brass. I think the oil for the wick system comes from the larger screw (next to the plunger for the stitch length adjustment) in the hollow part in the flat bed but yet I haven`t really examined my 212 closely for that .

Edited January 12, 2017 by Constabulary

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, Kellen said:

The confusing part is that looking at the machine from the bottom, it has all the oil tubes which would indicate that it's self oiling. 

It has to also have an oil pump to be totally self oiling. The pump would be on the bottom and would sit inside a gasket-sealed oil pan. Unless there is a pump somewhere and an oil pickup and filter on the bottom, it is manually oiled. The wicks would distribute oil you squirt into certain holes and reservoirs.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Very interesting, I didn't know that Singer was first with that type of spring/weight upper arm oil reservoir on some 211/212 subclass machies.  I thought it first appeared on Seiko machines such as 255RB, 333RB, or 339RB type machines.

This most commonly called 'centralized lubrication', meaning that it's not automatic, but that it will help spread oil as the machine operates by lubricating one point that will carry oil through usually oil wicks.

Edited January 12, 2017 by Gregg From Keystone Sewing