Tired of soft edge bevelers. Edge holding brand?

[bikermutt07]

1 hour ago, ZigZag said:

I'm glad it's not just me having this problem. Are there any alternatives to Barry King to buy new? Also is there a guide on which size edger for which weight or thickness of leather.

Somebody around here lately was giving the Weaver Master Series a lot of praise.

I really don't know about the sizing. 

[bruce johnson]

My personal favorite for edgers are the Gomph round bottom edgers, Easy to sharpen because of the design and have a tremendously long life. They cut a rounded profile. The "fine edge" edgers are fairly similar. I also like bisonette edgers but trickier to maintain and shorter life. The key to any edger is a good edge to start with and stropping as needed. I've got a tutorial on my website regarding edge beveler sharpening and maintenance - https://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/

To answer a few questions above. The last couple months have been tied up with family issues and I just haven't had enough time to get as many tools cleaned up and refurbished for the website. I've got a good backstock, just not enough shoptime to get them all ready until recently.  We are going to the Southwest Leather Show in Prescott in a couple weeks so the focus has been to get tools ready for that.  I'll be "restocked" on the website after we get back. As far as sourcing, some of my tools come from estate sets, shop retirements, or tool auctions and swap meets. A few from Ebay, and some from other leather workers who want to trade.

 

[electrathon]

9 hours ago, Bolt Vanderhuge said:

I started with the standard Tandy bevelers and now use the Pro line. They are different in many ways. The Pro line, while much better, does not do so good in very tight inside edges. I might have to get some of those corner ones at Barrys linked above. That is unless you are referring to Tandy's Pro line vs ones like Barry's sells. Then yeah it looks like the handle that is the main difference.

My main reference was to the steel used and the ability for it to hold an edge.  The discussion started about the tools going dull and not cutting well.  Quality steel, properly sharpened will cut well and hold an edge for a long time.  The pro line tools do look a lot nicer, they are more comfortable in most peoples hands.  The actual cutting edge is the issue with the complaints of poor performance.  I can sharpen a piece of fairly soft metal and it will cut, for a short time.  Sharpen a cutting edge on quality steel, properly tempered and it will preform for a long time. 

One big difference is you can buy a handful of Tandy tools for the price of one high end tool.  This issue is what weighs heavy in the Tandy side.  Many are not that worried about the little quality details and that is OK.  It creates a market for the low end tools.  They are also a great way to get into the leather world.  Few people start playing music with a $10,000 guitar, they start at the music store with a beginners model.  When they get better and start noticing the difference in sound, they move up.  Just like this discussion.  People are noticing the quality differences and asking questions about it.

[catskin]

Some likely will think this is a stupid question, BUT has anyone tried to heat the end of a cheap tandy beveler then dunk it in water to harden it so it will keep a better edge.  I have made clicker dies from soft pipe that the cutting edge bent when I used it a few times. So I redid the edge heated it to a dull red dunked it in water and it stays sharp and cuts good. I have very little steel tempering and heat treating experiance but this has worked for me quite a few times , shaping things then doing that on parts so they don't wear out as soon.

[ConradPark]

While I have used different brands for different leathers and skins, over the years, I always fall back on two brands, Tandy's basic (or Ivan's - used to be the same, but that might have changed - look the same, though - however Ivans are cheaper these days and regardless of what people are saying, I always found them and Craftool to be a workhorse that only needs stropping between longer runs) for any leather thicker than 4-5oz, and CS Osborne's for the rest. I probably use these two brands on 90% and I work professionally with leather goods manufacturing. I do not really like Tandy's stuff in general but some basic tools they have is alright for basic and cruder work. Just my opinion and +25 years experience.

[Bigfoote]

Actually the Tandy Edge beveller I have holds an edge pretty good, but the cut is straight, not rounded, takes more work to burnish. I have another from a so called "good American maker", that needs sharpening every two feet. When it cuts, it makes a beautiful round edge that is very easy and quick to burnish, but you spend more time sharpening it than you do edging. Going to try an Osborn or Barry King next. Thanks for all the expertise.

 

[zuludog]

Finding a good edge beveller seems to be a frequent request on this forum! I have seen other threads, and I, too, am thinking of changing up from my basic Tandy model. I would want a #2

I don't want to import from USA, or pay for the very best & most expensive, so I've been considering these, and have converted all the prices to euros for comparison, which is as near as dammit to USA$

Leatherhouse.eu sell the Pro Edge beveller, which looks very much like it is the Craft Sha edge beveller & sharpening kit, for 20-90E,

Tandy Craftool Pro Edger 83001-04  is 36-80E with Gold Club discount

Vergez Blanchard is 29-84E

Abbey have the Osborne 125 at 37-76E

I wouldn't mind the Vergez Blanchard, but they have a minimum order of 100E. No doubt the Osborne has better steel, but it still looks like the basic Tandy model, and I would like an edger that gives a slightly rounded effect, as opposed to a straight bevel or chamfer

So I'm thinking of getting the Tandy Craftool one. I can visit their new Manchester shop on one of their open afternoons and try it before I buy; also I'm now old enough to have a free bus pass, so there will be no transport or shipping costs.

 

Any other comments or suggestions?

Edited February 13, 2017 by zuludog

[bikermutt07]

Here's a little bonus tip for everybody. I have been laminating thin leathers together for bracelets. Total thickness of 4 ounces. Some of my strips were thinner than the ones I mated them too.

So, I took my craftool pro (which is a round cut edge) and ran it perpendicular to the edge of the laminated piece. It shaved the excess off perfectly.